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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "30 minute oil change", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
I haven't been following the oil threads for some time so someone else may have posted this before but in case they haven't:
I just finished my second oil change on the 5.7 and it took less than 30 minutes. When I did my first change I did it in the according to the book, remove the skid plate, remove the filter plug, insert the tool to drain the filter, etc....
Before replacing the skid plate I cut a 4 1/4" hole (largest hole saw I had) in it under the filter. I also replaced the pan plug with a Fumoto valve.
This time I simply put the filter wrench on the filter and removed it like you would a standard cartridge filer. The pan hole directed all of the oil through it into my drain pan. None on me except for what dripped on the ratchet handle.
Then its just a matter of replacing the large O ring and the filter. The plug and small O ring are never disturbed.
This was done in a muddy driveway with no lifts. I think next time I could do it in 20 minutes.
Yea, after doing my first change, I agree, I'm not going to bother draining the filter first anymore assuming the drain plug doesn't interfere with my filter wrench going on all the way. Another thing, with the plug in, you can prime (fill) the new filter with oil which is always a good idea anyway. The skid plate removal doesn't bother me that much though, so I think I'll leave it alone.
Yea, after doing my first change, I agree, I'm not going to bother draining the filter first anymore assuming the drain plug doesn't interfere with my filter wrench going on all the way. Another thing, with the plug in, you can prime (fill) the new filter with oil which is always a good idea anyway. The skid plate removal doesn't bother me that much though, so I think I'll leave it alone.
I haven't seen the oil filter yet - are you saying there is a drain plug for just the filter?
I want video, not pictures. I have tried going right for the cartridge, and skipping the drain step. ENd result was oil all over the cartridge, kind of messy.
How did you manage to not make a mess, when working through a 4 inch hole?
__________________ TOYOTA ONLY HOUSEHOLD
2007 Tundra CrewMax 4x4
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1972 Land Cruiser FJ40
You'll have to be patient with pics. 10 day forecast is for more cold and rain and I have a gravel driveway thats a mess right now.
I had been warned that oil would fly all over but it just drained straight down around the filter through the access hole, just like a conventional filter would. The ratchet handle was outside the hole opening.
In lieu of pics, here is the thread I posted when I cut the hole. It gives dimensions of where to cut the hole (later in the thread). I rimmed the hole with rubber grommet material so I can stick my hand through and not get cut.
Yea, after doing my first change, I agree, I'm not going to bother draining the filter first anymore assuming the drain plug doesn't interfere with my filter wrench going on all the way. Another thing, with the plug in, you can prime (fill) the new filter with oil which is always a good idea anyway. The skid plate removal doesn't bother me that much though, so I think I'll leave it alone.
The drain 'plug' on the filter housing is only a plug for the valve built into the housing. You can still prime the filter with fresh oil, even with the plug out, because the valve stays closed unless you shove the little plastic thingy that comes with your new filter into the opening.
I have done four oil changes so far and I found that if you shove the aforementioned plastic thingy in with considerable authority, it seats well and the oil drains straight through the center of it. I don't use any hose, I just place my drain pan directly under it. I wouldn't consider draining the housing by just unscrewing it--even if it makes the same amount of mess as a standard screw-on filter, it's still a mess!
because the valve stays closed unless you shove the little plastic thingy that comes with your new filter into the opening.
Well duh! Dumb me, I forgot about that little fact.
Quote:
I wouldn't consider draining the housing by just unscrewing it--even if it makes the same amount of mess as a standard screw-on filter, it's still a mess!
Oh I can live with that. For years now I've used one of the wide 14-+ quart Blitz drain pan/containers that Walmart stocks. I've been dealing with the 4 times bigger slobbering spin-on from my Ford diesel every 5000 miles for 239,000 miles now and can skillfully avoid getting splattered (except for that one time).
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