i want people to fear my truck coming down the road so far i've got the stebel horns. i'm in the process of upgrading from H11 to H9 headlight bulbs, the high beams to HIR1's, and my 5" hellas from 55 watt bulbs to 100 watt bulbs next i'm going to have a custom exhaust system fab'd up.
Let me know how the H9 and HIR conversion goes. This may be my next under $100 upgrade. I noticed they have an upgraded H11 that is 90% brighter listed too. I wonder which is better, the H9 or the H11+90?
Let me know how the H9 and HIR conversion goes. This may be my next under $100 upgrade. I noticed they have an upgraded H11 that is 90% brighter listed too. I wonder which is better, the H9 or the H11+90?
i grabbed my camera to take some pics of one side upgraded and the other stock, but i left the memory card in my laptop i'll get some pics and info tomorrow. i may pick up a set of the osram nightbreakers H11's to compare to the H9's. the navara H9's are definitely brighter and whiter than the stock sylvania H11's. i was having trouble getting the high beam HIR1 to fit. i didn't have a lot of time to work on it, so maybe tomorrow i'll have it put in. the H3 100 watt bulbs are sick
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2.4" front/1" rear leveling kit - toyo A/T 285/75/18 tires - bull bar with hella 500FF lights - 20% tint side and back windows - 55% full windshield tint
in the works:
stock HU -> LOC -> PPI FRX-456 -> DLS A4 + Marathon 6150 -> DLS iridium 6.2 comps + Hybrid-Audio L3's + 4 Tang Band W6-1139SI's
to come:
JBL MS-8 + center channel speaker + components for the rear + sirius adapter for stock HU
i grabbed my camera to take some pics of one side upgraded and the other stock, but i left the memory card in my laptop i'll get some pics and info tomorrow. i may pick up a set of the osram nightbreakers H11's to compare to the H9's. the navara H9's are definitely brighter and whiter than the stock sylvania H11's. i was having trouble getting the high beam HIR1 to fit. i didn't have a lot of time to work on it, so maybe tomorrow i'll have it put in. the H3 100 watt bulbs are sick
I am jealous! I used a pair of toenail clippers on the HIR's I put in my wife's TL. The easily chipped away the plastic to make them fit. I will just and wait to see the pix!
i modified the plastic tab, but they just aren't fitting in the housings. i may pull out the battery or windshield washer tank to get a better look at it and maybe get in there with a pair of calipers and measure the inside hole.
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2.4" front/1" rear leveling kit - toyo A/T 285/75/18 tires - bull bar with hella 500FF lights - 20% tint side and back windows - 55% full windshield tint
in the works:
stock HU -> LOC -> PPI FRX-456 -> DLS A4 + Marathon 6150 -> DLS iridium 6.2 comps + Hybrid-Audio L3's + 4 Tang Band W6-1139SI's
to come:
JBL MS-8 + center channel speaker + components for the rear + sirius adapter for stock HU
I installed one yesterday. Here is what I did.....
I removed the factory horn on the drivers side. Then removed the flat bar from the horn and put in a vice, I then bent the flat bar in to a an offset, so the new horn will be located further under the crossmember it is atached to. I then clipped the factory plug of the hot wire for the factory horn and put on a standard female spade connector and connected it to the (+) terminal of the STEBAL. I then took a 8 inch peice of 12 guage stranded wire and put a female connector on one end, then on the other end I used a standard eye connector, I connected the spade end to the (-) side terminal of the STEBAL and the other end to the mount bolt of the STEBAL to ground it out.
I then upgrades the factory fuse from a 10a to a 15a fuse...... all done!
the stock wiring is what, 16 gauge? that equates to much less than 300 circular mils per amp, which gets into the dangerous range. 8 feet of 16 gauge with 18 amps passing through it = about 144 cir mills / amp. i've replaced enough wiring in peoples' cars from improper wiring/crappy blue headlight bulbs to know that i won't skimp on wiring. the fuse is not for the device hooked on the other end, it is for the wire going to it. i would highly advise against just hooking the stock wire to the new horn. electrical fires are not fun...
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2.4" front/1" rear leveling kit - toyo A/T 285/75/18 tires - bull bar with hella 500FF lights - 20% tint side and back windows - 55% full windshield tint
in the works:
stock HU -> LOC -> PPI FRX-456 -> DLS A4 + Marathon 6150 -> DLS iridium 6.2 comps + Hybrid-Audio L3's + 4 Tang Band W6-1139SI's
to come:
JBL MS-8 + center channel speaker + components for the rear + sirius adapter for stock HU
I leave the stock wire from the stock horn to the new relay,that's ok?And then use in line 30 amp fuse and replace the 15 amp fuse for a 25 amp fuse is ok?Oh all wire with 12 g wire.Except the wire from the stock horn.You guy's think is fine,sound good.
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2007 DC,Blue strike metallic,BBS rims,3rd ligth cover,x-sp,trd,calipers painted in blue.Chrome strips around the tailgate,,bug shield,wind deflectors.Side bed rails.G2 bakflip cover.TRD CAI,Alpine 2-1023d woofer,6x9 front dr,and 6x5 back dr speakers.1 Hifonics amp 4 channels,1-1000 wtts crunch amp for woofers.Dynamat all dr's,and back wall.Head ligths paint mod in black. Custom box 2 -10" woofers by Tech12volts.Chrome towing mirror covers,tail gate handle chrome cover,dr handle chrome cover.Billet grill top and bottom and bumper insert.Custom made dr sill's and dr pillar overlay by Billet technology.Stebel horn.More to come.
I leave the stock wire from the stock horn to the new relay,that's ok?And then use in line 30 amp fuse and replace the 15 amp fuse for a 25 amp fuse is ok?Oh all wire with 12 g wire.Except the wire from the stock horn.You guy's think is fine,sound good.
Yes, stock wire goes to new relay.
What 15A fuse are you replacing for a 25A? (the 'HORN' fuse on the OE fuse block is a 10A) Use an in-line 20A fuse on your hot wire going to the relay, just to be on the safe side (the packaging recos it, and if you can use a smaller fuse without blowing it, why not?)
__________________ Want to know what's ironic? My Polish grandparents who were captured during the Warsaw Uprising.
Grandmother was enslaved in a German concentration camp and forced to make artillery shells for the 3rd Reich. Grandfather was in German and Soviet POW camps...ending up in Siberia. After WWII, they moved to the USA to be free, but Obama has turned it into the USSA...Grandaddy is rolling in his grave. CBTMA Member
yup factory horns have one high tone and one low tone, its marked on the back with either "high" "low" or "H" "L"... I will experiment to see which one sounds better..
pulled out my old cheap ratshack meter today and measured the horns. one horn measured 114 dB and two measured 117 dB at the same distance. so to reach nearly double the volume, we'd need at least 8 horns (9 dB increase). 10 dB's equates to double the volume.
i might try hooking up the stock horns as well tomorrow to see how it sounds. two stebels plus both stock horns = really effin loud
Just wanted to make a correction... a 3dB increase = approximately double the volume (1.99526 to be exact), not 10. So, in fact you already are getting double the volume since your increase was from 114 to 117 dBs...
Re: New Stebel 300 Hz Truck Horn
so far i've got the stebel horns. i'm in the process of upgrading from H11 to H9 headlight bulbs, the high beams to HIR1's, and my 5" hellas from 55 watt bulbs to 100 watt bulbs 
next i'm going to have a custom exhaust system fab'd up.
i'll get some pics and info tomorrow. i may pick up a set of the osram nightbreakers H11's to compare to the H9's. the navara H9's are definitely brighter and whiter than the stock sylvania H11's. i was having trouble getting the high beam HIR1 to fit. i didn't have a lot of time to work on it, so maybe tomorrow i'll have it put in. the H3 100 watt bulbs are sick 
and wait to see the pix!
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