New Stebel 300 Hz Truck Horn

[ponyuk]

I picked up all 4 of these different Stebel horns for $130 shipped, I plan to sell the ones I don't use. UPS tracking says I should get all of these tomorrow (for a weekend install).
I am going to try each of them out, although after reading posts here I am tempted to install all four. I have a couple of 70 amp relay and 50ft of 12 gauge wire. Anyone care to work out the combined output in db?

The Nautilus Compact Truck Horn produces an output of 134dB (at 4") and 110dB (at 2 meters) at a frequency of 300Hz.

The Magnum Low Tone Horn produces an output of 136dB (at 4") and 112dB (at 2 meters) at a frequency of 410Hz.

The Nautilus Twin Tone Air Horn gives you an earth shattering twin tone output of 139dB (at 4") and 115dB (at 2 meters)at frequencies of 530Hz and 680Hz.

The Nautilus Compact Truck Horn produces an output of 134dB (at 4") and 110dB (at 2 meters) at a frequency of 300Hz.

[got wake?]

it is hard to say what the output would be since they are all different frequencies. how well the frequencies couple with each other will determine how loud they get. generally speaking, you want to couple one freq with another that is twice the original freq. if possible, get another that is 3 times the original freq. if we could get a 200 hz, a 400 hz, and a 600 hz, i think that would be insane for a horn

[Swatdude1]

Originally Posted by brow

My install:

I like this location best, found it on this website of course. Still need to change horn wiring to 12 or 16 guage.



Close up side view:


Relay location, inside wall near battery. Used an existing hole:


Proof it's a work truck.... (yuck poor thing)

Three words... Clean that engine!!!! I think I would go into convulsions if I popped the hood and my motor was that dirty.

[cliff clavin]

Originally Posted by Swatdude1

Three words... Clean that engine!!!! I think I would go into convulsions if I popped the hood and my motor was that dirty.

are you serious? (sarcasm can be hard to detect on the forum)....its a truck, it should be dirty.....no garage queens here.....

[brow]

Originally Posted by Swatdude1

Three words... Clean that engine!!!! I think I would go into convulsions if I popped the hood and my motor was that dirty.

I know, I know!! But with my line of work I could clean it every couple weeks and it would probably look the same.
Yah it's a work truck for me, I guess I can detail it properly when it's trade in time (for another Tundra in a year and a bit)....

[ponyuk]

I got home from work a little early and decided to install the horns. I had little light left, so installed all four stebel horns at the same time (I hadn't realized that two of the 4 horns are identical, I bought them as 'kits' with two horns per kit). I wired them as kits with two horns per relay, and just one trigger wire from one of the existing horns. At the moment I have six horns - two stock and the four stebel horns. I am not sure if I am going to keep this setup or not. They are really, really REALLY loud.
Its difficult to describe the noise - with the combination of 5 tones it is kinda like a street scene in downtown Calcutta, only 1000 times louder

[Ulev]

Been outa town (and outa touch) in Da U.P.!
To answer a week old question...my inline fuse holder is a ratshack 'heavy duty' 20 Amp
item # 270-1217. What type of automotive fuse is recommended for this Mod ???
besides being a 20 A

[got wake?]

Originally Posted by Ulev

Been outa town (and outa touch) in Da U.P.!
To answer a week old question...my inline fuse holder is a ratshack 'heavy duty' 20 Amp
item # 270-1217. What type of automotive fuse is recommended for this Mod ???
besides being a 20 A

that's what i was guessing you bought. it takes standard glass fuses, which i'm not a big fan of, especially in the engine compartment.

something like their #270-1237 that takes a blade type fuse is better in the engine compartment.

[Specialized]

Originally Posted by blaster21996

I installed one yesterday. Here is what I did.....

I removed the factory horn on the drivers side. Then removed the flat bar from the horn and put in a vice, I then bent the flat bar in to a an offset, so the new horn will be located further under the crossmember it is atached to. I then clipped the factory plug of the hot wire for the factory horn and put on a standard female spade connector and connected it to the (+) terminal of the STEBAL. I then took a 8 inch peice of 12 guage stranded wire and put a female connector on one end, then on the other end I used a standard eye connector, I connected the spade end to the (-) side terminal of the STEBAL and the other end to the mount bolt of the STEBAL to ground it out.

I then upgrades the factory fuse from a 10a to a 15a fuse...... all done!

Having seen this description of how to hook up the horn, and then the others that are more involved, can someone please tell me if this is sufficient? Also, is the 30A relay required, or just a nice-to-have? I know next to nothing about automotive wiring (and I'm a ham licensee, too -- can you believe it?) and would like to know a straightforward way to do this. I have the horn, just need the visuals to figure it out!

Any help you could provide would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Specialized

[ponyuk]

I used the standard fuses (the full size) one's that Toyota uses - that way I can call upon the spare fuses in the fuse bay. I used 3 terminal connectors to complete my fuse installation -
one connector from one of the spare terminals in the fuse bay with a 5 inch piece of wire with another connector on the free end, this connector attaches to one side of the fuse, the other side of the fuse has another connecter with the cable going to the relay. The fuses are all inside the fuse bay.
3 of these:

Originally Posted by got wake?

that's what i was guessing you bought. it takes standard glass fuses, which i'm not a big fan of, especially in the engine compartment.

something like their #270-1237 that takes a blade type fuse is better in the engine compartment.

[Swatdude1]

Originally Posted by Specialized

Having seen this description of how to hook up the horn, and then the others that are more involved, can someone please tell me if this is sufficient? Also, is the 30A relay required, or just a nice-to-have? I know next to nothing about automotive wiring (and I'm a ham licensee, too -- can you believe it?) and would like to know a straightforward way to do this. I have the horn, just need the visuals to figure it out!

Any help you could provide would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Specialized

The reason a relay is supplied is because it is needed. The Stebel draws more amps than the factory wiring is set up to handle. It really isn't that scary to do it right and Checker had all the parts. You need a wire from the + side of the batter to the relay, from the relay to the Stebel and then a wire from the Stebel to ground. Some guys have said the factory wire plugs right into the low side of the relay but either way you just need to wire one of the blue wires to the low side of the relay and then to ground.

[ponyuk]

Buy the horn with a ready made wiring kit. This ebay seller will provide a kit for $8 and a fuse and holder for $3.25

eBay Seller: gman7034: Parts Accessories, The Big Mamma Super Loud Mini Air Horn items on eBay Motors

[Canadian_Yoda]

Originally Posted by ponyuk

I used the standard fuses (the full size) one's that Toyota uses - that way I can call upon the spare fuses in the fuse bay. I used 3 terminal connectors to complete my fuse installation -
one connector from one of the spare terminals in the fuse bay with a 5 inch piece of wire with another connector on the free end, this connector attaches to one side of the fuse, the other side of the fuse has another connecter with the cable going to the relay. The fuses are all inside the fuse bay.
3 of these:

Oooh... Interesting idea!

So just to clarify: you used the spare (space?) locations in the under-hood fuse center to wire up the power feed to the Stebel relay?

I wasn't aware there are spares (or space) available to be used in the distribution block... do you have any photos of your install to help us understand what you did? It sounds to me like you put together a really clean install. I'd like to do the same.

Thanks!

[Specialized]

Originally Posted by Swatdude1

The reason a relay is supplied is because it is needed. The Stebel draws more amps than the factory wiring is set up to handle. It really isn't that scary to do it right and Checker had all the parts. You need a wire from the + side of the batter to the relay, from the relay to the Stebel and then a wire from the Stebel to ground. Some guys have said the factory wire plugs right into the low side of the relay but either way you just need to wire one of the blue wires to the low side of the relay and then to ground.

That makes good sense. I think I have it, based on your description and on the directions from the box. From what you show here, I assume that the Tundra has a hot lead to the horn button?

I dropped by Advance Auto this evening and picked up a heavy-duty 20-amp in-line, weather-protected blade fuse holder and fuses to wire in-line as shown on the box. I'm gonna give it a whirl in the morning -- I'll let you know how it comes out. Thanks for the tips, I appreciate the help!

Specialized

[mxsjw]

Just finished installing mine...love it.