I'll take a photo in the day light. I found a few spare locations to get power from inside the fuse box - I have already used 4 of them - 2 of them feed a relay each to drive the 4 stebel horns, 1 feeds the front LED/flasher EMS setup, and the other feeds the EMS strobe lights on the rear.
Not to sure about it being clean, it is out of sight though, and all the fuses are exactly were you would expect to find them.
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Originally Posted by Canadian_Yoda
Oooh... Interesting idea!
So just to clarify: you used the spare (space?) locations in the under-hood fuse center to wire up the power feed to the Stebel relay?
I wasn't aware there are spares (or space) available to be used in the distribution block... do you have any photos of your install to help us understand what you did? It sounds to me like you put together a really clean install. I'd like to do the same.
I've had some time to play around with 3 different variations of air horns, all of which were on my old explorer so my Tundra NEEDS some help and I have a few suggestions/thoughts that might help some of you guys out. The first set up I had was the triple-horn locomotive set with a compressor and tank. OBVIOUSLY an explorer doesn't have much room underneath, and not too many people want that massive cluster of horns just dangling under their truck. A simple solution is to take it apart and fab up new brackets and lines so that the horns can mount flush against the frame, I had the brackets made at a local weld shop for $30, which I found to be a fair price since I have no welding experience/tools. The compressor ran off an accessory line so that in case there was a leak in the tank, the compressor wouldn't run all night and kill the battery. The result was 150 psi blasting through the three train horns for an AMAZING sound that would scare the sh*t out of anyone who dared to pull out in front of me or cut me off, VERY effective. The downside is that there is a lot of equipment, not very cost effective (around $500, installed it myself) and every morning the compressor will run to fill the tank and sometimes later at night. Not exactly the coolest noise to listen to every day. Also, due to the condensation, the tanks are supposed to be drained every week so get all the water out. This of course causes rust in the tank so they are supposed to be replaced every few years. Instead of replacing the tank, I scrapped the compressor and tank all together. The next set up I had was one with the compressor being directly connected to the horns. This system did not provide nearly enough pressure for all three horns, so I removed the two smaller ones. This system was extremely easy to install, all I did was reroute the power from the stock horns to the new compressor. With this system it takes slightly more time for the compressor to build up enough pressure for the horn to work, but its only a fraction of a second longer. The downside was that the noise was not much louder than the stock horn, it only sounds louder because it is a much deeper tone. The next set up I had was just for fun. I had some old paintball gear lieing around from that phase I went through and decided to use the paintball tank in combination with the solonoid from the first set up. I used the regulator from my gun to control the pressure coming from the tank (too much and the horn kind of screeches). Using about 200 psi for the single large horn worked GREAT. It was unbelievably loud, definitely would get fined if I honked while a cop was around... The upside was no compressor noise, the downside was having to pay $10 to get my tank filled over a month, though with the price of gas all us Tundra guys have to deal with paying around $80 to fill up our tanks, so $10 a month is not that bad. This set up is not very reliable though, paintball systems are not designed to be under pressure 24/7, so it broke for me after a couple months and is around $100 for a regulator that can handle the pressure I would be putting it through. As far as what I am going to do with my Tundra, I am probably going to go with the direct-line compressor due to its reliability and it still sounds very impressive. This is a system that you can build for urself or buy as a kit, either way its going to cost around $80. Hopefully that might satisfy some of the questions that you guys might have. If you have any specific questions about any of my set ups feel free to e-mail me.
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. 2007 TUNDRA 5.7L SR5 TRD 4x2 Double Cab, Salsa Red Pearl
TRD CAI, Corsa Sport Side Exit Dual Tip Exhaust, Stebel 300Hz Air Horn, OEM Tundra Mud Mats, Black powder-coated side-step bars, Ventshades, Line-X, TRD Sway Bar, Blacked headlights surround, White LED guage and dash lights, Viper 771VXR Remote Start / Alarm, Carriage Works black billet grille with logo remount (awaiting install).
EDIT - appears my original images were too big, even though I hosted them and delivered them using my own bandwidth. I've shrunk them and reposted them.
I actually got a "warning" delivered via PM from a Moderator
The pic's I promised:
4 holes drilled in to the fuse box - 2 for my EMS lights, and 2 for the horns.
cables on the left feed the EMS lights (lower power consumption), cables on the right are for the Stebel horns.
using spade connectors I was able to make my own fuse holder:
close up of where you can connect in the fuse bay:
horn location (almost concealed behind the front bumper):
close up of the horns (each bracket holds two horns), here one horn is visble, the other is completely hidden behind the bumper.
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2.4" front/1" rear leveling kit - toyo A/T 285/75/18 tires - bull bar with hella 500FF lights - 20% tint side and back windows - 55% full windshield tint
in the works:
stock HU -> LOC -> PPI FRX-456 -> DLS A4 + Marathon 6150 -> DLS iridium 6.2 comps + Hybrid-Audio L3's + 4 Tang Band W6-1139SI's
to come:
JBL MS-8 + center channel speaker + components for the rear + sirius adapter for stock HU
The reason a relay is supplied is because it is needed. The Stebel draws more amps than the factory wiring is set up to handle. It really isn't that scary to do it right and Checker had all the parts. You need a wire from the + side of the batter to the relay, from the relay to the Stebel and then a wire from the Stebel to ground. Some guys have said the factory wire plugs right into the low side of the relay but either way you just need to wire one of the blue wires to the low side of the relay and then to ground.
Thanks, Swatdude1 -- what you said in this post triggered it for me. I could see where the power was going, and it all makes sense. Just installed my Stebel today and it sounds great! The testing phase caused some concern with the neighbors, though.
Only thing I did in addition to your description was put an in-line 20 amp fuse (blade type, in a weathertight holder) between the relay and the battery. The box has it there, so I followed the directions.
Thanks again for the push I needed! I appreciate the help!
Thanks, Swatdude1 -- what you said in this post triggered it for me. I could see where the power was going, and it all makes sense. Just installed my Stebel today and it sounds great! The testing phase caused some concern with the neighbors, though.
Only thing I did in addition to your description was put an in-line 20 amp fuse (blade type, in a weathertight holder) between the relay and the battery. The box has it there, so I followed the directions.
Thanks again for the push I needed! I appreciate the help!
Specialized
Sorry!! You are correct. I forgot to mention the fuse!!! I've explained it a few times so I accidentally left that little important tid bit out. Glad you like it. I've definitely been enjoying mine. My daughter got aggravated with me the first week I had it because I was looking for excuses to honk it.
Beer please! CBTMA (Member and Founding Father: Est. August 15, 2008)
Clicky>>> What The Heck is CBTMA
Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
Any one try adding one of these yet? I was wondering what would happen if you added "The Big Mamma" to one of our existing Stebel truck horn and twin stockers!
Mxsjw, that video clip sounds great -- I can see I'm going to have to figure out how to hook both of my stock horns back up! How did you bridge the two horns together? Was it as simple as running the connector to a Y and hooking them both in? Please elaborate, that's the best sound yet! Thanks --
Mxsjw, that video clip sounds great -- I can see I'm going to have to figure out how to hook both of my stock horns back up! How did you bridge the two horns together? Was it as simple as running the connector to a Y and hooking them both in? Please elaborate, that's the best sound yet! Thanks --
Specialized
Yes, just a simple jumper.
First photo thanks to Mtrosclair.
And this one is mine blown up so you can sorta see the jumpers.
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Beer please! CBTMA (Member and Founding Father: Est. August 15, 2008)
Clicky>>> What The Heck is CBTMA
Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
Well duh... You're right, I had seen that and didn't even remember it. Sorry, had a bit of a 'tard moment...
Thanks for the pic, too, I think I'm going to do mine the exact same way. That's an awesome sound! I've had mine hooked up for a few days too, but nobody has been thoughtful enough to misbehave so I can use it! Thanks again for the pointer and pic!
Re: New Stebel 300 Hz Truck Horn
You're right, I had seen that and didn't even remember it. Sorry, had a bit of a 'tard moment...
Thanks again for the pointer and pic!
Linear Mode
