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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "tow hitch?", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
I have been using my tow hitch from my 2004 Sequoia and it has been banging around in my receiver as it is a little smaller. I haven't had to pull anything other than my duck boat which doesn't weigh anything so it's not been a problem except for the noise of it banging around back there. I called my dealer and he quoted $65 for the correct tow hitch. Anyone else know of any other option before I shell out the $65. I want the hitch to fit correctly in the receiver. Thanks in advance.
Not sure if I was clear on my original post. I am wanting the larger hitch to go in the larger receiver on the Tundra. With the beefed up towing capacity the receiver on the Tundra is larger.
What is the hitch stabilizer and how does it work?
The tundra comes with a Class IV receiver. Look for a Class IV Hitch and you should be fine. Also if your getting a Hitch Lock you need to get a Class V pin as. Most standard locking pins do not fit our hitches. I got this one:
The receiver is just a bit sloppy, I crammed a wedge of duct tape in with the hitch I keep in all the time.
Even my weight distributing hitch fits loose.
You can see the tape on the top and sides here...
I am sure there is a reason for it being loose, just don't know what it is.
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Beer please!
Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
I got the OEM hitch as a part of the package they stuck me with. It has a higher capacity than the ones you get at Wal-Mart or U-haul but it has less of a drop. Since your pulling a relatively lightweight boat, towing it level is probably more important. I have one of these:
It works well enough to stop the hitch from rattling when it is empty but it still rattles a bit when loaded. The rattle was very noticable when using my wife's Highlander (unibody) I didn't notice how much it rattled in the Tundra (body on frame) until I opened the windows.
i took the sticker from my hitch and folded it up and stuck it in there on bottom, it helped alot. I only used such a ghetto fix because i pulled over on the side of the road in annoyance of how much noise the hitch was making
I saw somewhere a good fix for that ---It went around the hitch and had screws that came down in 4 places and would stop all rattle---I dont remember who sold them on the internet !
I got the OEM hitch as a part of the package they stuck me with. It has a higher capacity than the ones you get at Wal-Mart or U-haul but it has less of a drop. Since your pulling a relatively lightweight boat, towing it level is probably more important. I have one of these:
It works well enough to stop the hitch from rattling when it is empty but it still rattles a bit when loaded. The rattle was very noticable when using my wife's Highlander (unibody) I didn't notice how much it rattled in the Tundra (body on frame) until I opened the windows.
Rattles when loaded? Not mine.
__________________ 2008 Tundra Crew Max Limited 4x4 5.7L Sunroof 20" Wheels Skid Plate Enhancement XM Anodized Aluminum 'T' Shifter Stebel Nautilus 110dB Compact Air Horn Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Springs
I used my hitch from my Dodge (it was a class 4 also) and it fits perfect! I bought it and the security locking pin at Auto Zone for an overall price tag of $45...
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Firencrash
Bad is never good until worse happens
If the new Tundra is a Class V receiver, what was the previous generation of Tundra/Sequoia? I now understand it was a Class III. So is the Tundra a Class IV? and if so could you just go buy a Class IV ball mount?