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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Dealer Said, "There is no break in period"", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
I've got an 08 DC 4x4 5.7L. When I bought the truck the dealer said there's no break in period. Now how's that? I've rebuilt engines for many years now and thats just to hard to believe. I'd think that the rings and rod bearings needed to seat. The manual is alittle cloudy about pulling and towing. For the first 500 miles. Is that All it takes?
Oh...another ? When will this thing loosen up and settle out in mileage?
I'm hand calculating 15.3mpg around town. Elevation 1881. Lots of hills in TN.
It doesn't have the guts my Cummins had, but its a reallllllly nice gas burner.
Any thoughts?
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2008 DC SLT 5.7L 4x4 All stock for now.
Dodge Cummins for a Tundra...We'll see if it lives up to
its rep!
Mine definitely got better with time/miles. The gas mileage got better and the motor got more responsive. I'm sure they are well seated in from the factory, but additional run time seems to be nothing but good for this motor.
The manual says if I remember that for the first 1000 miles is the break in period. And during that period to not give full throttle, no hard starts or stops and to vary the engine speed. pretty typical of what most manufacturer's say.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Pioneer 10" sealed sub box, Clarion 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
For all practical purposes there isn't a need for a break in.
The motors are run before shipment to assembly,their run a few times during relocation transport.
Ive run mine like I stole it since day one,dropped the plug @ 1K and never looked back.Just completed a 10K mile run with Mobil 1,oil sample to be sent to Blackstone Lab very shortly.
Mileage is right on average 16/19,towing 11 mpg average(8-10Klbs)
I use to baby things as recomended. For some years now I have been breaking things in hard (sort of). Load it, let it cool, load it, let it cool. When you have a few minutes read this article....
Motoman/Mototune......................geez, what a joke. I knew it would show up in this thread sooner or later.
Yea, so the guy goes out and beats the crap out of a new engine and it holds together, so therefore he decides that's the way it should be done? After working on everything from Cummins KTA600's (Google it) on down for over three decades, I never worked in a shop or knew of a factory engine mfgr that didn't HIGHLY recommend an engine break-in procedure on either a factory-new or shop-overhauled engine of any breed.
Quote:
You have built engines and think that rod bearings need to seat during break in?
So his terminology was off, give me (and him) a break. Any mechanic knows rods and mains, cam brgs, and any other metal-to-metal surfaces need a "light duty" break in period for the surfaces to burnish or mate (will you accept that term?) before put to hard use. That's why assembly lube is used on a rebuilt.
So his terminology was off, give me (and him) a break. Any mechanic knows rods and mains, cam brgs, and any other metal-to-metal surfaces need a "light duty" break in period for the surfaces to burnish or mate (will you accept that term?) before put to hard use. That's why assembly lube is used on a rebuilt.
All the bearings you just mentioned are not "metal to metal" surfaces, they are hydraulic bearings. During normal operation they should never touch. Assembly lube is used so that, until sufficient oil pressure is built for the bearing to function, the metal surfaces don't gall each other.
These surfaces do NOT need to burnish or mate, not at all, not even a little. Compression rings, Rear gears, etc. do need to burnish. And this is accomplished by short periods of increasing load, followed by an immediate cool down to prevent overheating of the parts/oil.
Yea, so the guy goes out and beats the crap out of a new engine and it holds together, so therefore he decides that's the way it should be done? After working on everything from Cummins KTA600's (Google it) on down for over three decades, I never worked in a shop or knew of a factory engine mfgr that didn't HIGHLY recommend an engine break-in procedure on either a factory-new or shop-overhauled engine of any breed.
So his terminology was off, give me (and him) a break. Any mechanic knows rods and mains, cam brgs, and any other metal-to-metal surfaces need a "light duty" break in period for the surfaces to burnish or mate (will you accept that term?) before put to hard use. That's why assembly lube is used on a rebuilt.
He has a very specific procedure for motors on a dyno and for installed motors....beating the crap out of them is very subjective.
Ironically, before the wide spread use of roller cam parts, after properly priming an engine's oil system, you needed to start a motor and go straight to high(ish) revs so as to not frag a lobe on a flat tappet motor.
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'07 Cmax, SR5, 4X4, 5.7......'01 Ford F-250 Crew Cab, V10.....'95 T-100, 2.7L......and about 10 other vehicles that I don't want to bore you with.
(I read motoman's "expert" theory some years ago, and since he's revolutionized engine break-in procedures and proven life-long engineers, mechanics, and factory reps all wrong, I can't figure out why he's not running one of their departments instead of working in a bike shop.)
Quote:
All the bearings you just mentioned are not "metal to metal" surfaces, they are hydraulic bearings. During normal operation they should never touch
Oh really, I wonder how a rod or main brg.'s dull overlay gets such a shine to it after a few 1000 miles?? (I think most of us are fully aware that there's a oil film between the surfaces.)
(I read motoman's "expert" theory some years ago, and since he's revolutionized engine break-in procedures and proven life-long engineers, mechanics, and factory reps all wrong, I can't figure out why he's not running one of their departments instead of working in a bike shop.)
Have to ask him.....maybe he makes a better living doing what he's doing???
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkd
Oh really, I wonder how a rod or main brg.'s dull overlay gets such a shine to it after a few 1000 miles?? (I think most of us are fully aware that there's a oil film between the surfaces.)
Well, just because there is limited to no metal to metal contact doesn't mean that there is 0 friction.
Am curious as to your feeling on the initial 5,000 mile oil changes (different thread)
Is the factory 100% correct there also??
Or are all the members here who believe in a shorter 1st change full of it???
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'07 Cmax, SR5, 4X4, 5.7......'01 Ford F-250 Crew Cab, V10.....'95 T-100, 2.7L......and about 10 other vehicles that I don't want to bore you with.
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Dealer Said, "There is no break in period"
2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Pioneer 10" sealed sub box, Clarion 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
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