DIY DIY: OEM Backup Camera Install With Auto Anytime Camera

[badpitbull]

trying to find it now, and yes i am using the flipdown monitor

[badpitbull]

http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/do...structions.pdf

found it

[pedro66]

OK it may be that you need this short pin, however it does not say where it goes in the box, I am guessing that most people have a relay in the place of this link.

Do you have reverse sensors and towing connection on your truck? I am thinking thats where we need to be looking

[badpitbull]

i do not have reverse sensors, but i have the hook ups and towing wire

[pedro66]

The short pin is in the fuse box under the hood in the middle bank of fuses it is marked on the lid if it is missing you can use a 30A fuse

[badpitbull]

thanks ill try that

[badpitbull]

Well trk in the shop so ill post the outcome later today

[CurbRash]

I want to do the anytime mod, but I have the fixed angle screen. I want to to put a switch in one of the locations on the console where the "extra/dummy" locations are.

Where can I get the switched 12V signal from? I guess I will need to run a splice into the blue wire all the way down to the console, where I'll be mounting the switch.

I was hoping of buying another factory switch from the dealer like the "Tow/Haul" switch and using it to turn the camera on.

Any advice?

Thanks in advance!

[jliltd]

I used a Radio Shack paddle SPDT switch (model 275-648). SPDT means "single pole double throw". This specification is the same as the automatic squat switch Pete (OP) specifies for the auto anytime switch. It's just of the manually-selectable variety. I found out about this switch here on TS (from wileetundra or Chiplee I think).



If you want to tie into the overhead monitor you'll have to drop 2 wires down to this switch matching Pete's schematic. The 3rd wire to the switch can come from the cigarette lighter for +12v switched power so that's why you would only need 2 to the overhead area. I oriented the switch so that when it's in the down/off position the monitor strictly works as normal (i.e. in Reverse gear). When the switch is flipped on (up) the monitor comes on no matter the gear selector position. Again Pete's design is what I'm using and he's done a great job of describing the wire connections above with the exception that my switch is manual in the panel.

So here's how I modifed one of my panel blanks (on the A/C control panel) to take this switch.

First I took the panel blank and covered it in masking tape and drew diagonals to find the exact center. I used a spring-loaded punch to mark the center:



Then I removed the layout tape and used a step drill bit to open the hole up to a diameter right at the diameter of the switch. A step drill is perfect for this. This is a view before cleaning up the plastic shavings and after Dremeling out the center part of the back of the switch blank for clearance:



I test fit the switch and the hole was just enough of a tight fit I only had to thread the switch into the hole and not use the mounting nut that came with the switch. After removing the switch I soldered three wires to the three switch terminals as shown:



After soldering wires on the switch terminals I screwed the switch into the drilled blank and oriented properly. I then slathered some Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker around the threads of the switch to hold everything in place and allowed it to cure. Right Stuff gasket maker can be found at your local Autozone. Right stuff isn't like regular-old RTV or silicons. It may seem a little pricey but trust me you'll get your money's worth. It's fabulous stuff and we're addicted to it around here.



After the Right Stuff was cured I filled the balance of the switch blank cavity with more Right Stuff to ensure good strain relief and vibration control. The switch leads were soldered to a quick disconnect plug (computer 3-pin fan power plug) with the male on the switch side and the female on the truck wire side:



This is a shot of the test fitting. I also used this same switch for a wileetundra speed pulse generator for my new factory Nav unit. The Radio Shack switches match the panel color perfectly and even have a slight curved bezel so that they sit flat against the face of the modified knockout blanks.

[CurbRash]

Thanks jliltd!!

Good info! I assume the cigarette lighter is 12V switched in our trucks. I've never paid it any attention, but some vehicles I've owned it was a constant 12V.

Now I'll be shopping/looking for a switch.

[jliltd]

Yes, the one and only cigarette lighter is switched with ignition. That's what makes it a good place for this signal (or even a radar detector etc...). The other 12v ports are pure power ports and they stay on for 2 hours after the vehicle is turned off. Those power ports would work too for this particular reverse signal application but not too good for a radar detector or iPod/XM power source unless you want those things to be on for 2 hours. I've still got my dash open so I'll try to get a shot of how I tied into the cigarette lighter for power (in my case radar detector, wileetundra SPG, Backup camera always-on power and external XM radio power).

[CurbRash]

Thanks! Any pictures would be great.

[jliltd]

There are two connectors behind the panel. One is white and the other is translucent yellow. The white one is the cigarette lighter plug and is the one you want.

Here's a picture of how I tied into the power wire. Unfortunately I have a piece of foam tape around the butt splice connector I installed but you can see the end sticking out of the bottom. Basically you want to connect to the white wire for ignition switched +12VDC. The other wire, white with black stripe, is chasis ground.



I cut the white wire and stripped both ends. Then I twisted one end together with my new power lead wire and crimped them into one end of an isulated butt splice connector. Then I crimped the other end of the original white wire into the other end of the splice connector. The foam tape keeps everything snug and quiet but electrical tape would work just as well.

I then connected a new negative lead to the white bolt in the center of the photo with a ring terminal.

The new power lead and negative leads are inside the spiral wrap going to the left upper side of the photo where you can see a couple of power leads I hooked up to the new +12VDC power wire. My Tekonsha brake controller connector can also be seen dangling above the other wires. I have the bench seat model so I installed my brake controller in place of the ash tray.

[oilmpg]

I really hated to spend the $400 on a factory kit so I did the ebay thing for a used aftermarket camera and monitor. For $40 I ended up with a cheap wireless unit and I keep the monitor in the console...out of sight 'cause it's not OEM. Anyway, it took 20 minutes to hook into the back-up lights and I just plug the monitor into the 12v. outlet. The license plate mounted camera shows the trailer ball just fine...the only reason I wanted the thing.

I practiced backing up to my trailer a few times and this is slick...it could save my marriage. Why is it that wives are unable to help when backing up to connect the trailer?

[jliltd]

Originally Posted by CurbRash

Thanks! Any pictures would be great.

Here's a picture of the switches after final installation. One on the left is for wileetundra's SPG (only applicable to Nav) and the one closest to the camera is the backup monitor any-time manual switch.