DIY DIY: OEM Backup Camera Install With Auto Anytime Camera

[CurbRash]

Originally Posted by jliltd

Here's a picture of the switches after final installation. One on the left is for wileetundra's SPG (only applicable to Nav) and the one closest to the camera is the backup monitor any-time manual switch.

Thanks for the additional info! How did you run the wires down from the monitor (blue wire splice). Did you have to run them down the pilliar behind the trim?


Thanks!!!

[pedro66]

Originally Posted by CurbRash

Thanks for the additional info! How did you run the wires down from the monitor (blue wire splice). Did you have to run them down the pilliar behind the trim?


Thanks!!!

Best way is to remove the rubber door seal and run down the gap to the kick trim

[bone doctor]

I have a 2008 Crewmax with DVD navigation and backup camera (factory installed). Is the modification still basically them same, that is, find the blue wire going to the monitor from the back up camera and wire in a SPDT switch?

Has anyone done this modification with the larger fixed screen in the dash that comes with the factory DVD nav system/backup camera?

I would assume that the "blue" wire is the reverse circuit and that it would basically be the same. Reading through this thread, one comment: If wiring to a SPDT switch wouldn't wiring the blue wire from the plug in connector to the monitor to the common terminal of the switch and the blue wire from the reverse circuit to one pole and the 12V+ to the other pole basically avoid the "diode" issues mentioned above. That way, the monitor would either be connected to the reverse circuit or the 12v+ circuit in either position. ]May be I misunderstood some of the questions....

[pedro66]

Yes just cut the reverse wire that goes into the NAV at K6



You are looking for pin 5 (Green) cut that and route the end that goes to the NAV to the common of a 2 way switch then the other end to one of the other connections and 12V to the remaining. so when you switch you disconnect from the truck reverse signal and feed 12V to the NAV

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES JUST PUT 12V TO PIN 5 WHILE IT IS STILL CONNECTED TO THE TRUCK ELECTRONICS YOU MUST USE A 2WAY SWITCH TO DISCONNECT FROM THE TRUCK ELECTRONICS

[jliltd]

Originally Posted by CurbRash

Thanks for the additional info! How did you run the wires down from the monitor (blue wire splice). Did you have to run them down the pilliar behind the trim?


Thanks!!!

There are actually two ways to route the wires. One may be easier than the other depending on which side of the truck you want to work on. The conventional way is as as you described it and how I did it under the headliner and down to my switch. The second way is to skip the overhead all together and tie into the wire harness under the driver's-side A-pillar down low.

I like the second solution due to it's shorter run and elegance but didn't find out about it until I was done with my routing. Credit for this second option goes to Toxarch and you can follow this link to see his post on this second method. This new method he discovered is about half the way down and starts with some red text:

http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/aud...html#post20059

Back to the "conventional" way, here's how I did it. You can run your wires the way pedro66 suggested, the same way I did or do it Toxarch's way. It's very easy to remove the passenger-side A-Pillar (two 10mm bolts in the handle) and drop the wires down adjacent to the side-curtain air bag:



This is what the overhead wire routing looks like:




I removed the glove box so I could run the wire along the steel cross-member tube that goes from side to side under the dash.

There is more than one way to skin a cat and I don't think any two installs will be exactly the same.

[jliltd]

Originally Posted by bone doctor

I have a 2008 Crewmax with DVD navigation and backup camera (factory installed). Is the modification still basically them same, that is, find the blue wire going to the monitor from the back up camera and wire in a SPDT switch?

Has anyone done this modification with the larger fixed screen in the dash that comes with the factory DVD nav system/backup camera?

I would assume that the "blue" wire is the reverse circuit and that it would basically be the same. Reading through this thread, one comment: If wiring to a SPDT switch wouldn't wiring the blue wire from the plug in connector to the monitor to the common terminal of the switch and the blue wire from the reverse circuit to one pole and the 12V+ to the other pole basically avoid the "diode" issues mentioned above. That way, the monitor would either be connected to the reverse circuit or the 12v+ circuit in either position. ]May be I misunderstood some of the questions....

Yup. You got it right. As Pedro66 pointed out a SPDT switch eliminates the need for any diodes as both signal wires are completely isolated from each other on the non-common poles of the switch. It's like having two blind dates at adjacent restaurants and you're the common. You keep excusing yourself and going next door to keep the other gal happy (original wire) while she knows nothing about your other date (constant +12V) and vice versa.

Pedro66 has pointed something out in one sentence that a wordy bastard like me would take a paragraph to state. In your case it's an even easier modification since you have factory Nav. No need to go to the overhead at all. The K6 pin connector in the back of your head unit that pedro66 shows is the key. It already has the reverse signal ready to go on pin 5. Pedro's was green. Mine was white. That's why it's important no to worry about wire color but rather pin position. Here is a picture of mine. It is loose because I was installing OEM Nav to replace my factory JBL radio and had this connector shipped to me with the Nav unit. In this photo of my K6 plug, pin 5 is on the right and is the white wire with brown tick marks and the plug is oriented the same as the drawing in Pedro's post:



I cut this white wire about 2 inches back from the connector. The piece of cut wire going into the plastic connector is deemed "common". The piece of wire going back into the vehicle harness is deemd "reverse signal". Then I brought new ignition power wire from cigarette lighter as outlined before. As an aside the other two wires are the speed sensor (center pin) and parking brake wire (pin 1).

If you happen to use the same SPDT switch that I did (Radio Shack p/n 275-648) then the "common" terminal of the switch is the center post. This may not be the case with another SPDT switch so check continuity with a multitester to find out what happens when the switch is flipped to determine common:

This common center terminal of my Radio Shack switch I tied into the "common" wire going into pin 5 of the plastic connector (i.e. "in" to the Nav side). One of the remaining two outside switch posts went to the vehicle harness side of the "reverse signal" that was originally cut away from pin 5. The third and remaining switch terminal went to the new cigarette lighter wire for +12VDC. After you hook it up you can test to see which way you want the switch to position "on". I set mine up so when the paddle is down the reverse camera operates conventionally (common connects to original vehicle harness) and when up the monitor displays camera no matter what (common connects to cigarette lighter power). You may notice in my previous post showing the switch I marked "top" with a china marker on top of the assembly so I'd know which way to install it in the panel.

Pedro66 has been an invaluable help to me with this mod and others. This thread has wandered a bit from his overhead automatic switching to a manual switching for those with fixed monitors but it's still all about turning your camera on whenever you choose.

[CurbRash]

Thanks Pedro and jliltd!! You guys must be electrical engineers of some sort. Your posts have been invaluable!! I will try to get this done this weekend. I hope you don't mind if I have a few more questions.

I think I will try to get the blue wire source from the A-pillar, so I don't have to run a wire overhead.

Looking at the other post, I assume the blue wire is still the one I want?

Now I have to figure out how to get the panels off without breaking them (SNAP - Did I break it??). Could get costly going back to the dealer if I'm not careful.

Which panels should I consider removing? I will plan on putting the switch in the panel just above the cigarette lighter.

Thanks!!

[jliltd]

I would look for some of the Acrobat files on TS that show installations of different types. One of my favorites is the XM Radio "fit kit" install instruction sheet because it has a very thorough description of dis assembly of both the bench seat and bucket seat versions of the Tundra. Here is a link to that pdf file:

http://www.trdsparks.com/install/PT546-34070inst.pdf

I don't know which seat configuration you have but at a minimum you will be dropping the main dash panel under the steering wheel, the panel with the cigarette lighter, and the A-pillar. Pretty straightforward and not much to go wrong. If you use a flat screwdriver as a pry bar be sure to wrap the end with electrical tape to protect any plastic.

To verify the blue wire use a multimeter to check continuity between the blue wire in the overhead console and the blue wire at the A-pillar plug. The colors should be the same. If you don't want to get into the overhead console you could also check for +12VDC on the blue wire at the plug when the gear selector is placed into reverse with the key on. I would use a sewing pin in the jaws of an alligator clamp test lead to stick down into the connector to check it before you cut any wires.

Here is a schematic of what I'm talking about:



Guys like pedro66, PS-RagE, toxarch and wileetundra are the real brains behind these mods. I'm just a farm boy who scratches his head for 4 days after reading their posts until it sinks in what they are truly saying. I post my findings in an attempt to clarify things for myself while allowing others a chance to save me from any errors in my thinking.

[bone doctor]

Thanks a bunch. I thought that was the case. I studied electrical engineering in college but no longer do anything with that knowledge, but the diode thing didn't seem right. It became crystal clear after I posted, I saw the thread on the common signal lines and it confirmed my suspicions. By the way, how hard is the dash to remove. I have seen the other threads where people have said it was easy, as well as easy to lose/drop the bolts/screws holding the unit in. Any tips would be appreciated.

[jliltd]

Originally Posted by CurbRash

Thanks Pedro and jliltd!! You guys must be electrical engineers of some sort.

Nope. Just a West Texas dirt farmer working for nothing with the current cost of fuel and fertilizer and a commodity price still reeling from Clinton's transfer of agricultural technology to the Chinese. However, I did stay at the Holiday Inn Express one time.

[pedro66]

And I just work with ET most nights, well his animated robotic cousin.

[PacermanMike]

Cool Postings Guys. Just got my 08' DC this week. It has the Tundra Grade interior, meaning it only has 2 fold downs (one for bus. cards and one for shades). Will the camera work in my app? It looks like you guys have sr5's or ltd's . not sure if there is an addt harness to hook into or not.

[pedro66]

Originally Posted by PacermanMike

Cool Postings Guys. Just got my 08' DC this week. It has the Tundra Grade interior, meaning it only has 2 fold downs (one for bus. cards and one for shades). Will the camera work in my app? It looks like you guys have sr5's or ltd's . not sure if there is an addt harness to hook into or not.

If the sunglasses holder is the same then it would be worth taking down the console and looking for the wiring and also at the rear bumper, if not then you will need to run a 4 conductor wire from the tailgate to the overhead which is not hard, I would then suggest using my modification to anytime use instead of looking for the reverse wire as you need to flip down the monitor to use it anyway it kind of does away with need for the reverse signal, only other thing you need is 12v and you can find that.

[PacermanMike]

Thanks Pete for the logic. It makes sense. If Toyota was smart they'd find a position for you. I loved reading all of the posts especially yours. You could sell your knowledge. I'm glad you don't. I have a rebuilt vette and they have a tight community. I'm glad to buy something that others appreciate and have pride in. Thanks again. Mike / Ohio

[CurbRash]

Thanks! Pedro and jliltd

I have been working on this today and here's what I found out:

I'm using the harness in the A-pillar. The light blue seems to be constant power. I had to use the green wire as the signal source. I applied 12V to it and the monitor/camera comes on. The only problem is that the reverse lights come on also and the gear indicator on the dash lights up "R" also.

Is there any way to keep the reverse lights from coming on and the "R" indicator from coming on?

It did the same for me when I tried using the blue wire going straight into the overhead monitor.

Thanks!