With a few hours to myself today I decided to take an extra intake I had lying around and experiment with it a bit ( see pics ). I disconnected the battery to reset the ECM with each change I made. Here's what I did in sequence and the affect it had ( butt dyno, calibrated with mom's home cooking of course )
1 - Removed carbon screen ( good improvement in throttle response and slightly better acceleration throughout the rpm band )
2 - Removed ribbing in upper intake ( a little better all around than removing carbon screen )
3 - Cut hole in bottom intake ( remarkable improvement in top end power and just the right amount of intake noise - kind of in the middle between the unmodded stock intake and an open filter style intake i.e. airaid )
If you look at the picture with the carbon screen, you can see how restrictive it is, as I was trying to shine the light of a 100w bulb through it. While it's a piece of emissions control equipment, it does negatively affect airflow IMHO. The ribbing in the upper intake is nowheres helpful in terms of aerodynamics and seems to serve a function of stiffening the plastic to keep down intake noise. Removing it was likely only serving my compulsive nature, but it did make a noticeable change in how the truck ran ( if you try this, make sure you clean up the plastic debris thoroughly before running the engine! ) For those of you who were thinking the hole I cut in the bottom lets the engine pull hot air ( and it likely will ), I didn't notice any difference in power while driving in stop and go traffic.
I temporarily switched back to my unmodded intake to see how much different the truck ran. Let me tell you, I'm extremely surprised how much improvement it made overall, especially higher rpm power and the intake note the engine now has! I'll be monitoring my fuel mileage next time I fill up to determine how all the mods affect it.
PS - I'm not responsible if you try this yourself and mess up your truck
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2007 Tundra 5.7 4x2 RCSB slate metallic
2005 Corolla - all stock, cause it's the wifes
1986 Mustang GT - the stereo is under the hood
1990 Corolla - cause it was really cheap
Nice, I may have to take a real good look at how the TRD CAI on my truck is put together...heh, heh.
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nice to see you experimenting. But was all this done on a Butt Dyno or did you actually see gains on something measurable?
If you count the spare ribs I ate, you could say my butt was "calibrated"
I know it's hard to determine gains via the SOP (seat of pants) method, but I'm pretty perceptive to the differences. Not that it gives me any more credibility by saying so, but I've tuned some older carbed vehicles with the butt dyno method (reading plugs, setting timing by ear, etc.) back in the day before there were any g-techs or the like. I'm pretty perceptive to changes in the way a vehicle runs and feels. One other problem is sometimes you can't see much difference from a mod on a dyno, but when driving the vehicle part throttle there may be a much bigger change. So no, physical measurements were not made verifying my above stated claims. I have a previous baseline dyno on the truck, so I might go back soon to do another few runs, funds allowing.
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2007 Tundra 5.7 4x2 RCSB slate metallic
2005 Corolla - all stock, cause it's the wifes
1986 Mustang GT - the stereo is under the hood
1990 Corolla - cause it was really cheap
hey Thumbster,
My SAP truck has no P/S cooler and there is a straight shot to outside air between frame/radiator support for a little ram air "invention". I removed the rubber air blocker and am feeding outside air into my modified airraid. If you have the P/S cooler maybe it can be relocated?
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Rumbler,
2007 5.7 SR5 SAP DC 2wd w/ SOS 2/4.5 drop, Airaid, MSD Dashhawk, Banks y-pipe/Dynomax ultraflow dumped custom exhaust, 305/60R18 proxes s/t in rear only, SOS/JL Audio stereo, blackmaxx tonneau, westin running boards.
If you count the spare ribs I ate, you could say my butt was "calibrated"
I know it's hard to determine gains via the SOP (seat of pants) method, but I'm pretty perceptive to the differences. Not that it gives me any more credibility by saying so, but I've tuned some older carbed vehicles with the butt dyno method (reading plugs, setting timing by ear, etc.) back in the day before there were any g-techs or the like. I'm pretty perceptive to changes in the way a vehicle runs and feels. One other problem is sometimes you can't see much difference from a mod on a dyno, but when driving the vehicle part throttle there may be a much bigger change. So no, physical measurements were not made verifying my above stated claims. I have a previous baseline dyno on the truck, so I might go back soon to do another few runs, funds allowing.
good stuff. i'm interested to hear how the numbers are on a back to back vs. your stock intake and what you have on ehtere now. I would love to open up some restrictions. any extra power when I'm towing would be great.
hey thumbster, nice write up. how did you get the carbon screen out. did you pry it out with a screwdriver. i was going to do this a long time ago, but i forgot all about it. i remember reading that some people broke the screen and got all the little pieces of carbon all over the place.
hey thumbster, nice write up. how did you get the carbon screen out.
There are little dimples of plastic melted in place on the edge of the screen. You can drill them out and the whole thing comes out in one piece.
I hear the trd intake also has this screen, so I would think removing it would really increase the flow potential of the already better flowing filter unit.
__________________
2007 Tundra 5.7 4x2 RCSB slate metallic
2005 Corolla - all stock, cause it's the wifes
1986 Mustang GT - the stereo is under the hood
1990 Corolla - cause it was really cheap
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2007 Tundra 5.7 4x2 RCSB slate metallic
2005 Corolla - all stock, cause it's the wifes
1986 Mustang GT - the stereo is under the hood
1990 Corolla - cause it was really cheap
I'm glad to see that someone is giving this some thought...maybe the $350 intakes are not money well spent. I know that the intake elbow removal mod on the 3.4 (from the earlier v6 trucks) was worth 6hp at the wheels. Maybe we can take up a collection for helping you with your dyno costs.
I'm willing to put in $10.
The other option would be to use a g-tech...they are slightly better than a butt dyno. I have seen verifiable results from performance mods on my old ls1 t/a and hemi durango.
I just removed the charcoal filter on a 2nd tundra, and found they just pop off by hand after poping off a corner with a screw driver, without even removing the lid.
I posted a write up with tons of pics of my first attempt. I was so mad when found out they pop off by hand. But I was able to get a pic showing all 7 layers of it.
600 miles and so far no codes, 1 MPG increase (no idea how ) but 300 mile range is sweet! Butt dyno says faster all around, and its also a bit louder.
Stock 5.7 intake mods & experiments
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) but 300 mile range is sweet! Butt dyno says faster all around, and its also a bit louder.
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