As what on the title said an 19.8mpg has achieved after removing just the HC charcoal filter and using a stock air filter. Did not even shave the ribs inside the upper lid box. This has been only tested for under 100 miles, but I usually get around 18.3mpg before going 75mph on a highways. As far as acceleration, it got better response. And it has a bit throaty sound too.
I can attest to the improvement. I took out the HC filter on my 04 Camry in the summer of 2004 and did noticed some performance improvement. With the 225/50R17 tires combo, I still average 29 MPG with 40% frwy and 60% city driving in the HOT Phoenix weather.
__________________ " If At First You Don't Succeed, Try And Try Again. "
Just wonder after removing the carbon filter, do I have to replace the original (OEM) filter with K&N or some kind of performance want? BTW, what is LOL, dyno, and HC?????? I've seen a lot on here but don't really know what exactly they are.....I know LOL === Laugh out Loud, but I don't think it apply on this thread, right?
Is this HC filter part of the stock intake? So for us who have changed out our stock intakes with aftermarket ones are we out of luck? For 2-3 mpg better from an average of 10-13 now I would put back on the stock today.
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2007 Black Dbl Cab 4x4 SR5. Mods: 2.5 RevTek front only lift, 33/12.5/18 Toyo MT's, 18x9 KMC XD Black Hoss's, VOLANT CAI, NEW!! Doug Thorley headers and Magnaflow dual exhaust
Is this HC filter part of the stock intake? So for us who have changed out our stock intakes with aftermarket ones are we out of luck? For 2-3 mpg better from an average of 10-13 now I would put back on the stock today.
I believe so, but not 100% sure. But if you will look at the ones that you removed, you will find it on inside top cover of the air box. before the MAF.
I read this yesterday at work. On my way out to the truck to leave for the day I decided to take a look at this filter, so I popped the hood and saw it right there at the top of the intake box. I happened to have a screw driver in my truck and proceeded to pop that silly thing out. You guys were right.. I did notice a much improved throttle response..
Your saying I won't see much of an mileage increase until I reset the battery? I hate losing my stations, etc.. but if thats what it takes I'll do it.
Strange it can't learn over time and get the mileage improvement.
I read this yesterday at work. On my way out to the truck to leave for the day I decided to take a look at this filter, so I popped the hood and saw it right there at the top of the intake box. I happened to have a screw driver in my truck and proceeded to pop that silly thing out. You guys were right.. I did notice a much improved throttle response..
Your saying I won't see much of an mileage increase until I reset the battery? I hate losing my stations, etc.. but if thats what it takes I'll do it.
Strange it can't learn over time and get the mileage improvement.
It is unfortunate that you have to do it. For the computer needs to be reset to refresh its memory. Just remember the stations that you like and this is going to be a bit benefit anyhow.
I'm no certified technician, but you should not have to reset the computer after performing this modification. Thats the whole point of electronic fuel injection / computer controls, it should automatically adjust air / fuel mixture to optimal ratio.
If that were the case you would have to reset your computer with the changing seasons / altitude you are driving / etc.
I'm no certified technician, but you should not have to reset the computer after performing this modification. Thats the whole point of electronic fuel injection / computer controls, it should automatically adjust air / fuel mixture to optimal ratio.
If that were the case you would have to reset your computer with the changing seasons / altitude you are driving / etc.
I'm no certified technician, but you should not have to reset the computer after performing this modification. Thats the whole point of electronic fuel injection / computer controls, it should automatically adjust air / fuel mixture to optimal ratio.
If that were the case you would have to reset your computer with the changing seasons / altitude you are driving / etc.
The only way for the ECM to detect sensor baselines is with a complete reset. Fuel trims will adapt to a certain extent, but sensor baselines dictate fuel trims and change when you mod. After I installed my catback I notice the engine rpms would flare up excessively at cold startup - not until a full year later when I yanked my battery terminals for doing the air intake mods the rpm flare up fixed itself. Also, there are certain mods that will trigger a CEL if you don't disconnect the battery. I know from several people who installed CAIs (airaid in particular) on their Tundras and had a CEL - this fixed itself after resetting the ECM via the battery disconnect. One guy drove around with his CEL on (MAF code) and was stubbornly insisting it will fix itself from driving it. His mileage went down to 12 mpg and the truck ran poorly, so he finally decided to disconnect the battery and it was all taken care of.
So guys, don't be lazy - disconnect your battery after every airflow related mod you do!
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2007 Tundra 5.7 4x2 RCSB slate metallic
2005 Corolla - all stock, cause it's the wifes
1986 Mustang GT - the stereo is under the hood
1990 Corolla - cause it was really cheap
BTW, what is LOL, dyno, and HC?????? I've seen a lot on here but don't really know what exactly they are.....I know LOL === Laugh out Loud, but I don't think it apply on this thread, right?
Dyno = dynamometer... which is a test to determine wheel horsepower and torque. It's basically a treadmill for a car.
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. 2007 TUNDRA 5.7L SR5 TRD 4x2 Double Cab, Salsa Red Pearl
TRD CAI, Corsa Sport Side Exit Dual Tip Exhaust, Stebel 300Hz Air Horn, OEM Tundra Mud Mats, Black powder-coated side-step bars, Ventshades, Line-X, TRD Sway Bar, Blacked headlights surround, White LED guage and dash lights, Viper 771VXR Remote Start / Alarm, Carriage Works black billet grille with logo remount (awaiting install).
The only way for the ECM to detect sensor baselines is with a complete reset. Fuel trims will adapt to a certain extent, but sensor baselines dictate fuel trims and change when you mod. After I installed my catback I notice the engine rpms would flare up excessively at cold startup - not until a full year later when I yanked my battery terminals for doing the air intake mods the rpm flare up fixed itself. Also, there are certain mods that will trigger a CEL if you don't disconnect the battery. I know from several people who installed CAIs (airaid in particular) on their Tundras and had a CEL - this fixed itself after resetting the ECM via the battery disconnect. One guy drove around with his CEL on (MAF code) and was stubbornly insisting it will fix itself from driving it. His mileage went down to 12 mpg and the truck ran poorly, so he finally decided to disconnect the battery and it was all taken care of.
So guys, don't be lazy - disconnect your battery after every airflow related mod you do!
Thanks man! I knew you will say this things for someone has insist of what they know even we know what we know. Huh! what did I just said....
The length of time it takes to drink one beer ( ten mins ) should do it!!
__________________ Black 2007 D/C Limited 4x4, seems to have ALL the options, Flowmaster Dual Delta 40's, K&N drop in filter, Rhino Liner', 3" frt 1" rear Daystar leveling kit, BFG Radial All Terrain TA's 305x65x18, Moto Metal M0951's in Chrome 18x9. Fully DeBadged , Stebel horn, C/W grill, TRD Swaybar, Wet O's, Craven Speed Stubby Antenna, 10,000 lb winch, H11 bulbs, Production date 8/07
"CBTMA Member" all that is remaining is:
Black Mod Headlights 1997 Chevy Tahoe Sport 4x4 2008 Sequoia Ltd. Slate Metallic (purchased on 3/28/09)
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference. The MARINES don't have that problem." President Ronald Reagan 1985