The speed limiter is the last thing I'm worried about.
My primary concerns are better acceleration and mpg plus the ability to compensate for mods.
A dyno tune is not a "tell all" - I'd much rather use a wideband O2 setup and tune for part throttle driving under typical road conditions. Don't get me wrong, open loop tuning at WOT on a dyno is a good thing, but isn't necessarily going to get you better part throttle performance. There have been several situations where a mod hasn't shown to make more power on a dyno, but could clearly be felt by regular driving conditions. Off idle performance under 3000 rpm will not show up on a dyno due to the auto trans wanting to downshift, so there's no way to get measurable results on a dyno.
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2007 Tundra 5.7 4x2 RCSB slate metallic
2005 Corolla - all stock, cause it's the wifes
1986 Mustang GT - the stereo is under the hood
1990 Corolla - cause it was really cheap
Last edited by Tundradrenalin; 07-17-2008 at 04:58 PM.
The speed limiter is the last thing I'm worried about.
My primary concerns are better acceleration and mpg plus the ability to compensate for mods.
A dyno tune is not a "tell all" - I'd much rather use a wideband O2 setup and tune for part throttle driving under typical road conditions. Don't get me wrong, open loop tuning at WOT on a dyno is a good thing, but isn't necessarily going to get you better part throttle performance. There have been several situations where a mod hasn't shown to make more power on a dyno, but could clearly be felt by regular driving conditions. Off idle performance under 3000 rpm will not show up on a dyno due to the auto trans wanting to downshift, so there's no way to get measurable results on a dyno.
I agree 100% . I am almost never over 4K, so having all my power 5K or higher, does me no good. I'd be more into it for the MPG and helping my exhaust and CAI anyway.
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07 Tundra DCSB, 5.7, Blue Streak Metallic, 4X4, SR5, TRD, BU, CK, DZ, FE, HM, MG, OF, Brushed Stainless steps, sill protectors, USMC lighted hitch plug and assorted stickers and license plate brackets, rollup bed cover, Rhino Liner, Mesh Grill backing, Black Wheelskin steering wheel cover, Wade in channel vent visors, under rear seat storage, PRG mini spring pack, Proforce rear exit cat-back exhaust, aFe CAI, TRD rear sway bar, A.R.E. MX series Cap.
The speed limiter is the last thing I'm worried about.
My primary concerns are better acceleration and mpg plus the ability to compensate for mods.
A dyno tune is not a "tell all" - I'd much rather use a wideband O2 setup and tune for part throttle driving under typical road conditions. Don't get me wrong, open loop tuning at WOT on a dyno is a good thing, but isn't necessarily going to get you better part throttle performance. There have been several situations where a mod hasn't shown to make more power on a dyno, but could clearly be felt by regular driving conditions. Off idle performance under 3000 rpm will not show up on a dyno due to the auto trans wanting to downshift, so there's no way to get measurable results on a dyno.
This is the problem they have been having in getting a good dyno run. The trannie kept downshifting on the rollers and screwing up the numbers. There is also some torque management going on even with trac control off. The 0-60, 1/4 mile improvements and mpg improvements are all easily measurable and felt.
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2007 Tundra 5.7 SR5 DC Slate Metallic w/ Sport Appearance package
2004 Mazda RX8 6-speed GT Brilliant Black: TRADED
Mods to date:
Unichip tuner
Flux software (arriving soon)
Volant Intake
Projector & LED headlights
Custom two tone leather seats
Stainless Steel running boards
Weathertech Floor Liners
Window tint
Royal Purple motor oil
hi, this is old new's. i have said this. toyota's limitor's and nanny's are messing up the true dyno #'s. but like i have stated before,
in the real world, while driving , the unichip works awesome.
dyno smyno. it means nothing, compared to real life experience.
when you can't beat a specific vehicle, and than you modify your ride, and than redo it, and CRUSH them this time.
thats my proof.
like i said, i can not reach my peak HP & peak TORQUE due to the limitor's.
UNICHIP or any compnay need's to disable the limitor's, than & only than we all we see the real dyno #'s.
even a custom tune will not fix this issue.
so please UNICHIP disable the limitor's so we can get the best result's.
you either hit the rpm limitor or speed limitor. and shift points are disrupted, even in specific gear's, it still has the same old story-limitor's.
due to these limitor's, we will never see our best HP & best torque.
BUT until than, my toyota tundra is good enough.
:-)
gorilla
Indeed my friend DYNO SMYNO!!!!! LOL! I used to love back in the day when I worked for EasystreetMotorsports building the worlds fastest WRX. We hade the reputation for building fast WRXs for our customers. My WRX was a beast we dubed it the ESX500. 500 for 500hp but actually on the dyno and our dyno at that I put down a measley 387hp to the wheels. I used to love guys that made 400+ cause the would all talk a big game even one near 600hp. And on the road or track. It was annihaltion you would think I made at least 200-300 more ponies. HAHA ! Those were the days. 10.84et 143mph in a show car. And a big 300+hp pushing it.
I spoke to unichip and they are seemingly not to worried about Power number as these numbers generate alot of conflict! As seen above and in this and other threads.
A very wise man and a genius in racing told me once " it doesnt matter how much power you gain, as long as your gaining! Horsepower isnt like money $10 dollars and $5 dollars dont equal $15 in the power game. Not losing power is key! And the ruler used to measure may be wrong. All that really matters is that your faster!!!
So dyno symno!!!!
Go Fast and let mouths run!
Quote:
Originally Posted by GORILLA
hi, this is old new's. i have said this. toyota's limitor's and nanny's are messing up the true dyno #'s. but like i have stated before,
in the real world, while driving , the unichip works awesome.
dyno smyno. it means nothing, compared to real life experience.
when you can't beat a specific vehicle, and than you modify your ride, and than redo it, and CRUSH them this time.
thats my proof.
like i said, i can not reach my peak HP & peak TORQUE due to the limitor's.
UNICHIP or any compnay need's to disable the limitor's, than & only than we all we see the real dyno #'s.
even a custom tune will not fix this issue.
so please UNICHIP disable the limitor's so we can get the best result's.
you either hit the rpm limitor or speed limitor. and shift points are disrupted, even in specific gear's, it still has the same old story-limitor's.
due to these limitor's, we will never see our best HP & best torque.
BUT until than, my toyota tundra is good enough.
:-)
gorilla
Indeed my friend DYNO SMYNO!!!!! LOL! I used to love back in the day when I worked for EasystreetMotorsports building the worlds fastest WRX. We hade the reputation for building fast WRXs for our customers. My WRX was a beast we dubed it the ESX500. 500 for 500hp but actually on the dyno and our dyno at that I put down a measley 387hp to the wheels. I used to love guys that made 400+ cause the would all talk a big game even one near 600hp. And on the road or track. It was annihaltion you would think I made at least 200-300 more ponies. HAHA ! Those were the days. 10.84et 143mph in a show car. And a big 300+hp pushing it.
I spoke to unichip and they are seemingly not to worried about Power number as these numbers generate alot of conflict! As seen above and in this and other threads.
A very wise man and a genius in racing told me once " it doesnt matter how much power you gain, as long as your gaining! Horsepower isnt like money $10 dollars and $5 dollars dont equal $15 in the power game. Not losing power is key! And the ruler used to measure may be wrong. All that really matters is that your faster!!!
So dyno symno!!!!
Go Fast and let mouths run!
That's been their position all along. They were never concerned with dyno numbers. Dynos can be altered to read whatever you want them to, but if I can go from 0-60 in 6.1 seconds to 5.7 seconds and from 14.5 to 14.1 seconds in the 1/4 STOCK, I don't care what the numbers are, I know I'm hauling ***! I plan on hitting 13's with cai, exhaust and custom Unichip tune on premium gas.
__________________
2007 Tundra 5.7 SR5 DC Slate Metallic w/ Sport Appearance package
2004 Mazda RX8 6-speed GT Brilliant Black: TRADED
Mods to date:
Unichip tuner
Flux software (arriving soon)
Volant Intake
Projector & LED headlights
Custom two tone leather seats
Stainless Steel running boards
Weathertech Floor Liners
Window tint
Royal Purple motor oil
I also agree that a dyno number is not the be all and end all of performance...I remember once seeing a quote about someone saying their dyno is "1320 feet long".
But then again the straight line WOT 1/4 mile time/trap doesn't completely tell the whole story either. Id prefer drive an 11 second viper/vette over a 10 second civic/srt neon/evo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOLA_1906
That's been their position all along. They were never concerned with dyno numbers. Dynos can be altered to read whatever you want them to, but if I can go from 0-60 in 6.1 seconds to 5.7 seconds and from 14.5 to 14.1 seconds in the 1/4 STOCK, I don't care what the numbers are, I know I'm hauling ***! I plan on hitting 13's with cai, exhaust and custom Unichip tune on premium gas.
The viper or corvette running 11s would typically be easier to drive and more reliable and well rounded I'm sure but a civic doing 10s would certainly surprise a lot of people and be fun to show off. If it's your daily driver I'd rather it not be a ratty monster though.
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2007 Toyota Tundra 4X2
5.7L Regular Cab/Short Bed
Sport package two seater
I think people are taking the dyno thing out of context. I wouldn't chip without a dyno as the A/F ratio is VERY important, especially when leaning out a vehicle. Just slapping a chip on vehicle and running a faster quarter isn't what you should be after.
Ensuring you don't get detonation or you're not going to burn a valve should be at the top of list, followed by HP and fat torque curves.
UNICHIP has alot of experience in this, and has done ton of dyno run's for there module's ,& has mapped out many application's. so we don't burn up valve's, blow up engine's, etc.
they can do alot more than other company's. thats what they are doing with this group buy.
trying to get better gas mileage for you guy's asking for it.
i personally didn't want extra gas mileage.
i as well as other's wanted HP & torque. and that's exactly what i got.
;-)
gorilla
I searched through the numerous posts regarding this chip and can not find the answer or may have just missed it, but anyway. With this chip are we able to re-calibrate the speedo and odo for bigger tires? I am a little new to the chip game so any help is appreciated.
Technically this is not a chip, but a piggyback computer.
From Unichip's FAQ section:
What is a Piggyback ECU?
· If you want to modify your engine’s performance electronically, you have three choices. You can either reflash the OEM computer, or you can replace the OEM computer, or you can “piggyback” another computer in line with your OEM computer. Each has their advantages and disadvantages.
· Reflashing your OEM computer is inexpensive and quick, but the OEM computer knows that it has been reflashed and will dutifully report exactly how many times that has happened to the dealer any time it is asked. The dealer knows how many times it should have been reflashed so even if you reprogram your ECU back to stock, your dealer knows it has been reprogrammed and may tell you they have “warranty concerns about your car.” Reflashes also can’t add any capability beyond what the OEM computer could control and the OEM computer can only contain one calibration at a time.
· Replacing the OEM computer offers the most flexibility because you can create your own rules for engine control. On the negative side, standalone ECU replacements range from pretty expensive to very expensive and the tuner has to great all of the engine control runs and corrections from scratch which is time consuming… which in turn is obviously more money and why this is normally an option for track only cars.
· Piggybacking leaves no footprint in the OEM computer because nothing in that computer is ever changed so there are no warranty concerns. The Unichip contains up to five calibrations, but utilizes the OEM ECU’s safety features. On the negative side, because you are adding a computer and a wiring harness, piggybacking will never be as inexpensive as refashing.
I hear PiggyBack technology is old. Why PiggyBack then?
PiggyBack technology is proven technology, perfected by Unichip. The Unichip PiggyBack system is designed to build on the existing engine computer, and all the time and money put into it by the manufacturer. The Unichip refines the factory programming by utilizing power left out intentionally by the manufacturer, adding additional tuning points along the RPM curve for smoother performance, and re-tuning for optional aftermarket performance components and the power they can create with the Unichip.
Doesn’t an ECU reflash product do the same thing?
Not in this universe. Here is a breakdown of what a reflash does:
A reflash is limited by the hardware of the factory computer.
A reflash can only take advantage of what the hardware can do.
A reflash can be detected by a dealer, and if detected will void your warranty.
A reflash can be erased by your dealer.
Most reflash products can not be custom tuned
A reflash does not add the additional 92,000 tuning points to the maps that the Unichip does.
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2007, 5.7, Double Cab 4x2, Blue Streak, SR5
I dont know about these new ones for the 07 and up, but i had a unichip for my 01 and it was awesome. You could do all kinds of stuff, as well as recal. for bigger tires/ gears. Speed limitor, shift points, Nitous, s/c, t/c, seem like you could do it all, but it was pricy as tuners are far and few inbetween. They were pretty consistant as well, 500.00 a tune, plus 250.00 for each additional tune. The piggyback came with 2 maps, A and B. A, if i remember was more conservative and mild, while B was mroe aggressive and I had to run premium. It's nice to see that they are available for 600 in the group buy as the one for my 01 cost around 800.
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2008 5.7 RCSB Tundra: Sport Appearance Package, Toyota Carved 20" rims, McGaughy's 2/4 drop kit, Blacked out tail lights, Magnaflow dual exhaust, Volant CAI.