Unichip Tuner

[Rut]

Originally Posted by 07bsmcrewmax

Thanks for clearing that up svilla.

OK, heres another one. I only run 93 octane fuel in my truck; lets not get into a debate about fuel, thats just what I like to run, should I...

-Keep running 93 and start on map A, then switch to map B to see if there is a power increase?

OR

-Put it straight to map B and run it there?

OR

-Run out this tank of 93, fill up with 87...Install the tuner on map A, then refuel with 93 and switch to map B and see which one works better?

Unichip recommends first running MAP A w/ 87 and see how it runs

[v8hunter]

1st Impression: I finally got my unichip installed with my new airraid intake. Installation was much more of a pain than expected as stupid me had the intake (heat shielding) in the way and the even had to unbolt the small black electrical box (see unichip instructions) to get the unit put in. I finally got the thing hooked up though after wrestling with it for 15-20 minutes. My first impression is that it is slightly more powerful and torquey...even at partial throttle. I drove for about 20 minutes in traffic on the way back to work and so I didn’t get much of a chance to really tell. I can’t really say anything yet about fuel mileage as I had the AC on and it seemed pretty normal??? I have not had much of a chance to watch my wideband yet at full throttle, but one quick glance revealed a 13 to 1 (or so) on one quick full throttle pull…otherwise it stayed at 14.7 to1 like it did stock. If I end up with anything else worthy of posting…I’ll get it up here before the weekend. I also took a few pictures of it installed that I can email to someone if they want to post them here.

After More Driving: I drove it again and may have found a quirk with the programming…it’s too early to say with much certainty, but it seems to lean out (on the wideband) and sometimes ping when you hammer on it and downshift quickly (say from 6th or 5th down to 2nd or 3rd). When this happens (like you would expect) it is down on power. The first gear (you get into after downshifting) is lean and low on power (about 15 to 1 a/f) but once it shifts again you are back where you should be (a/f) and making good power. I may pull off the airraid to see if it is the problem. I tried both maps on the unit as I am running 92 octane fuel and they both seem to have the leaning out quirk most of the time in the first downshifted gear. There were a few times I got on it where the truck downshifted where it seemed to pull harder, but I didn’t have a chance to glance down at the wideband to verify the a/f being too lean. I’m not sure if my truck needs more time for the ecu to learn from the changes, if there is a problem caused by my intake, or if the unichip needs some more tuning work. Other than the shifting and leaning out quirk I would say that I am generally satisfied with the performance. I’m sure that I will have some more to say and mpg data after 500+ miles of driving it this weekend.

I won't be back until after this weekend, so I will post more then.

Mike

[GORILLA]

hi, you should need 30 to 50 mile's for the ECU unit to adjust, thats it.
remember you can not switch map A or map B while the truck is running.

you might also dyno the truck. it will give you all the info you want.
rear wheel HP is 310, so anything higher is your gain.
i wish all you gen2 guy's/girl's good luck.
my result's were great. but i have a gen1 2005 4.7 vvti V8.
if i was to guess-
your dyno HP should be around 330 to the rear wheel's.
gorilla

[that1seven]

did anybody else buy a intake from unichip?
they gave me a good deal on volant so i didn't pass out on the deal.
mine should be here tomorrow, need to get my truck serviced first tho.. just hit 15,000 miles
fresh oil.. than i do a few dyno runs!!! yeaaaaaaaaaaah

[svilla]

Keep running 93 and start on map A, then switch to map B to see if there is a power increase?

That is what I am going to do, as I am running 93 too.

If I have it in Tow/Haul will it just relearn for that setting

Your Tow/Haul should be the same. I would just pull in Tow/Haul as normal. I would just listen for pinging. You should notice it pretty fast since you will be towing. If you start to get any pinging, un-plug the unichip.

[that1seven]

anyone notice it said made in south africa ..
damn fedex guy pounding on the door and ringing door bell, i was about ready to shoot whoever that was.. but turned out to be the fedex man

[GORILLA]

remember what the directions say's. some times map B isn't the best map to use wether or not you use 93 octane or not.

the only true way to know whats what, is dyno your truck.

i use map A and use 93 octane. and when i need a boost because i have to play, i add a booster to my gas.

also sometime's map B throws a cell code. it has done this for some in the past.

my truck can run both map's without any issue.
i also tried 89 octane once, just to see if there would be a problem. none found. ran great.
gorilla

[that1seven]

Originally Posted by GORILLA

remember what the directions say's. some times map B isn't the best map to use wether or not you use 93 octane or not.

the only true way to know whats what, is dyno your truck.

i use map A and use 93 octane. and when i need a boost because i have to play, i add a booster to my gas.

also sometime's map B throws a cell code. it has done this for some in the past.

my truck can run both map's without any issue.
i also tried 89 octane once, just to see if there would be a problem. none found. ran great.
gorilla

yeah i told unichip about how i'm from nebraska we have ethanol here.. 89octane ='s ethanol... so he said i should be fine.. i might just start using 91 tho

[RONE]

Mine was delivered today (which means FedEx delivers on Saturday, for those keeping score at home). I won't get to install it until tomorrow as I'm just leaving town for the day.

[KetelOne]

Got mine today. Installing the harness was a PITA, felt like a tug-a-war battle. Some much for plug-n-play. Think I'll take my chances leaving the harness on if I take it to the dealer. I could only get 1 bolt back on the electrical box because it's such a tight fit.
Performance seems better at higher revs, but only drove it a few miles.

[IVIerk]

Damn I am frustrated. 4 times I called UNICHIP to make sure they got my maps correct. Needed AFE CAI with cat-back mapping. They sent me the chip with Drop-in filter and catback. Can't do anything till Tuesday either. I even took next week off from work so I could install and play around with it. Just spent last 3 days dealing with the idiots at COMCAST who have no clue. Needed to vent sorry guys. Do you think Drop in filter and Cold air intake are the same maps? I'm not sure if I should install it or hold off till Tuesday.

[RONE]

Originally Posted by IVIerk

Damn I am frustrated. 4 times I called UNICHIP to make sure they got my maps correct. Needed AFE CAI with cat-back mapping. They sent me the chip with Drop-in filter and catback. Can't do anything till Tuesday either. I even took next week off from work so I could install and play around with it. Just spent last 3 days dealing with the idiots at COMCAST who have no clue. Needed to vent sorry guys. Do you think Drop in filter and Cold air intake are the same maps? I'm not sure if I should install it or hold off till Tuesday.

They're probably pretty close, but if they did put the wrong map on you'll have to send the tuner back, and it sounds like it's a PITA to install/uninstall the tuner. You'd be safer waiting to talk to them.

[rovin]

I see ketel got it installed the correct way.I may redo mine in the future or not. It IS a pita. I only got 2 bolts back on the little black electrical box. It was to hot to worry about the 3rd.
I have used both maps and they run smoothly, accelerate hard and offer good throttle response. Avg mpg climbed to 17.5 after about 100 miles of combined lead footing/easy cruzing on country roads and highways. I was getting 15.1 before, but of course its still way to early to know what it will end up being. Encouriging tho.
At the moment I cant tell which is the better map. If I get to the point where I just have to have it dynoed and tuned I have a unichip tuner shop about 20 minutes away. I am reluctant to put more money in it right now, buying a house instead.
Gorrilla what boost do you use?

[rovin]

I see ketel got it installed the correct way.I may redo mine in the future or not. It IS a pita. I only got 2 bolts back on the little black electrical box. It was to hot to worry about the 3rd.
I have used both maps and they run smoothly, accelerate hard and offer good throttle response. Avg mpg climbed to 17.5 after about 100 miles of combined lead footing/easy cruzing on country roads and highways. I was getting 15.1 before, but of course its still way to early to know what it will end up being. Encouriging tho.
At the moment I cant tell which is the better map. If I get to the point where I just have to have it dynoed and tuned I have a unichip tuner shop about 20 minutes away. I am reluctant to put more money in it right now, buying a house instead.
Gorrilla what boost do you use?

[lawdog2k]

Seriously? $600 for a PNP item which requires complete removal of electrical boxes, wrestling for almost 30 minutes, cut arms, no easy guide "tool" for the wiring to enter the cabin, and the worry of ever having to remove the thing again for a dealer visit? I was emotionally scarred with the thought of breaking the factory clamps. Oh, one actually did break, but heah, I'm sure it wasn't the tight confines and the limited slack included in the kit. It took less time for me to install the 1" block spacers in the back of my truck.

I understand it was a huge undertaking to design this thing, but would it be so difficult to make some loomed wired connectors to mate all the factory cabling to the unichip box since the ones were already made for the cables coming from the unichip box to the factory plugs? I would have been ecstatic to pay another $50 to have longer looms to tie everything in and have it look decent instead of the physicality of the wrestling involved for this 10 minute project.