Thanks, I'll be going in next week to see what they say about my corner dash not lining up even with the passenger A-pillar. It has always been like this since I bought it new 2 years ago, but thought that was normal. I, like you, hate to have dealers mess around in the dash and make things worse or break something and not letting you know they did it and after warranty is up, a metal bracket or pieces of plastic come falling off under the glove box. I have to go back in anyways to do a little one on one with the service mgr. and request to have them repaint and remove rust spots below and behind the rear double cab doors along with replacing my rusted lug nuts they said warranty will not cover. I'm glad forums like these exist so consumers just don't think everything is normal when it really is not and should be fixed while there is still a warranty left. The problem is in 2-3 years after warranty, most, not all, of these problems mentioned will be present again on the Tundra due to the fact that the fixes are band-aids and the real problem is with the design and engineering of the tundras.
Yeah its not just that they might break something else but the way Senior Porter drives your car around the place or whatever can happen in there.
Those guys are sick and hate people like us who really wanna have stuff done right and are particuliar about the service they receive, they just wanna get you outta there. You could be sitting there ready to explode over the fact the dealer just "put a small dent" in your truck and they will be like in their heads "Whatever dude its just a car, our crack team of body shop techs will fix it right back up for you, no problems" They do not have the same feelings about your ride as you and I may have.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
I brought my truck to the dealer last week for a squeek/creaking noise and for the passenger side dash sitting about 1/4-1/2 inch below the A-pillar. The service manager said that Tundras were built that way and showed me some on his lot that didn't line up. But, none of them lined up as poorly as mine. I finally got them to fix the squeek. I guess they put enough foam in the dash and A-piller to stop the noise. However, even after replacing the dash clip, the passenger side is still 1/4-1/2 inch below the A-Piller. Now I've spent 4 days playing phone tag with Toyota trying to talk to a rep.
Jeez, I remember when Toyota used to Actually make their dashboards out of stiff plastic with padding on it and vinyl to make it look good. Now its just paper like plastic. ouch..
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2010 International ProStar 13spd, 06 Corolla CE, 02 4Runner SE 4x4 A/T
1991 Toyota Cressida 5spd M/T Turbo Charged
Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Groove
Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD. You want to hit it, but you fear the consequences.
I looked at my 08 and it is doing the same thing on the passenger side. I eyeballed the dash relative to the dots on the windshield and it seems the dash is okay its the plastic on the passenger side "A" pillar that has moved up. I haven't taken any scientific measurements but you can physically move the "A" pillar trim back done but as soon as you let go it goes back to its former position. My dash has a few subtle waves too. I don't know that I'm that anal to care though, however a few years ago it would have kept me up at night. There is one good side to getting older!
I had brought up the dash issue to my service dept. about a year ago. They said they hadn't heard about it. We both agreed that I would wait until they got some info on a fix or TSB.
Well, I took it in for an oil change last week, and I was told that they had repaired a few dashes very recently. Although there is no TSB specific to the dash sinking problem, he said one of his techs has figured out a fix that has worked pretty well so far. Something along the lines of going through the glovebox, adjusting the dash and applying foam tape.
So, the wave in my dash is now gone, no more rattles but the dash still sits about 1/8" inch lower on the A pillar than on the drivers side. But I have noticed it doesn't rise and fall anymore with temperature changes.
So far, I find this fix acceptable. Especially since the rattles are gone. Very peaceful in the cab again!
Fixed mine in about 5 mins, just rolled up some fabric and put it between dash and truck body. Just look up there and then reach up and install, easy and hassle free. End of story.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
I just replaced my cab air filter, and while I had the glove box out, I took the other plastic piece off and stated looking up in there to see what was squeaking and rattling. On my truck it was the a/c vent tube coming apart because the sag was getting so bad. I was able to get a piece of 1 1/2" Styrofoam that I had laying around the garage jammed under the a/c vent and on top of the metal support rod under the dash. It was a very tight fit, pushed the dash up perfectly to match the a pillar and cured ALL the dash rattles I had. I had the truck into the dealer for their fix, it lasted 1 week.
Last edited by Gearheadesw; 04-27-2009 at 10:49 AM.
Update to passenger side "sinking dash." I took my truck to Stevenson Toyota in Golden, CO after having very poor results with the original dealer that sold me the truck. The Stevenson guys took the truck and returned it to me 15 minutes later with the problem solved. The tech said that Toyota knows there is a problem but doesn't have a TSB for it. He went in through the glove box and placed a shim under the dash to raise the dash so that it is flush with the A-piller. I thought he said that Toyota makes the shim.
Update to passenger side "sinking dash." I took my truck to Stevenson Toyota in Golden, CO after having very poor results with the original dealer that sold me the truck. The Stevenson guys took the truck and returned it to me 15 minutes later with the problem solved. The tech said that Toyota knows there is a problem but doesn't have a TSB for it. He went in through the glove box and placed a shim under the dash to raise the dash so that it is flush with the A-piller. I thought he said that Toyota makes the shim.
A special Toyota shim!
Those dealers are not stupid they know when a customer is picky and asks a lot of questions they need to Wow you with what you wanna here, "yes sir, our Tech's repaired your dash today by installing Toyota shim part#3629847846, this repair is factory approved and the quality of the parts we used meet OEM specifications."
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
Fixed mine in about 5 mins, just rolled up some fabric and put it between dash and truck body. Just look up there and then reach up and install, easy and hassle free. End of story.
That's exactly what I did originally. Worked great. I also thought it was end of story, until about 12 months later............
Those dealers are not stupid they know when a customer is picky and asks a lot of questions they need to Wow you with what you wanna here, "yes sir, our Tech's repaired your dash today by installing Toyota shim part#3629847846, this repair is factory approved and the quality of the parts we used meet OEM specifications."
That is awsome... It looks like I need that part number. what was the cost ? probably $129.95 from Toyota
Those dealers are not stupid they know when a customer is picky and asks a lot of questions they need to Wow you with what you wanna here, "yes sir, our Tech's repaired your dash today by installing Toyota shim part#3629847846, this repair is factory approved and the quality of the parts we used meet OEM specifications."
Thats funny cuz i have the special CCTUNDRA08 shim for a low, low price of $3.99. It should work on all second generation tundras. Hell i will even install it for a 6 pack of coorslight. It doesnt meet toyota specs but it gets the job done. LMFAO
__________________ I used to think drinking was bad. So I stopped thinking!
I stuck a piece of wood under the dash lip to raise it up. I'll see tomorrow if it stays in place, but it seems to work fine for now. Also found some duct pieces that could be the source of my dash rattles. I used some gasket material and bubble wrap .
Pix of wood.
Last edited by idcruiserman; 04-27-2009 at 10:31 PM.
What about fixing a rattle on the driver's side? How hard is it to get up in the dash on the driver's side? Anyone done it? I have a rattle that's starting to annoy the sh*t out of me. Started about 2 months ago. Yet ANOTHER visit to the service dept. I suppose.
Re: Sinking dash fix w/pics
2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
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