I've been looking at Ready Lift, Truxx, and Low Range for a 3" in front 1" rear lift for my pickup. Are there meaningful differences between them or, are they all pretty much the same?
The reason I ask is some places say the other are higher maintenance because they use plastic and rubber bushings and stuff.
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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab SR5 with the 5.7L V-8 and Doug Thorley headers
"Trying to tax yourself into prosperity is like standing in a bucket and trying to pick yourself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill?
Re: Meaningful differences in the 3"/1" lift kits?
Those three are all really good. They all come with the same parts, bumpstops, diff. drop, skid plate spacers and of course the spacers. The difference between them is, lowrangeoffroad uses all aluminum and their rear blocks are tapered. Truxxx and Readylift use steel and have standard rear blocks. No extra maintenance is required on any of these since they arent made out of poly like the daystar. Hope this helps!
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2008 SR5 DC 4WD 5.7L TRD Radiant Red/Black (HM,EC,EJ,OF,RL,V5,R9,CT,LineX)
CBTMA Member
TRD Sway Bar, TRD CAI, TRD Dual Exhaust, Billet Grille, CF Dash Kit, Westin Platinum 4" Oval Nerfs, Low Range Off-Road 3/1 Lift, Rancho RS9000XL's - rear, Wet Okole Seat Covers - Fr&Rr, Toyo Open Country A/T's - 285/75/18 (35's), ProComp 6098s 18x8.5 +19, Hypertech Speedo Calibrator, Lund Genesis Tri-fold Tonneau, OE BackUp Camera, OE Fender Flares, VLeds Interior, Kenwood DNX8120 w/HD Radio and Rear Monitor
Re: Meaningful differences in the 3"/1" lift kits?
The Truxxx is the only one with an offset for proper spring clearance and I believe this offset also helps with the re-alignment.
I say this without seeing the new Readylift 3" kit...maybe they offset too.
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Clicky>>> What The Heck is CBTMA
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Re: Meaningful differences in the 3"/1" lift kits?
I emailed both Readylift and Lowrangeoffroad for a response to the offset that truxxx does. Here is the response I received from Lowrangeoffroad. Havent heard back yet from Readylift.
"To answer your question, no there is no offset on the spacer. We found that upon installation and design there was no need for an offset. There doesn't need to be on our spacers because there is no interference with the upper control arm at full droop or at full compression. This only happens when you have a larger spacer. I have a brand new TRD Tundra coil-over assembly sitting on the bench that I use for quality control purposes even though I have never had any issues with quality control. The top stud spacing on the Tundra is a 4 bolt pattern with a slight offset on the studs (they are not concentric) Our spacers have arrows CNC machined in the spacer that shows alignment on the top of the strut. If you have taken apart a Tundra strut you will notice from the factory an arrow pointing out. The spacer will only go on the strut one way, and the holes are machined with much higher accuracy and a much better output than you can get with a CNC plasma, or with a lazer cut welded spacer. Even in a tight tolerance jig, upon welding any strut spacer will warp and the only way to fix that would be to machine the mating surfaces...at that point there would be only one logical cost effective way to have the spacer be made- out of aluminum machined just like ours are. Having 2 conflicting metals using studs that are pre-tapped and machined into the spacer is the best way of constructing a lift of this nature. I went as far as providing 12mm head bolts with an extra large flange area for the skid plate drop, something only a technician would notice because of changing oil or removing the skid plate without having to change sockets in their impact. Also, many other skid plate drop bolts used have no flange, making the skid plate hole wollow out with time. We took the time to noice this was a problem and came up with a solution. The differential drop is another story...one kit on the market in particular uses too large of a spacer which makes the differential mounting areas have metal to metal contact. This is something that goes unnoticed by many people installing the kit."
If you need anymore information, please let me know. I am sure you as well as the many other people who are running our lift will be well pleased.
__________________
2008 SR5 DC 4WD 5.7L TRD Radiant Red/Black (HM,EC,EJ,OF,RL,V5,R9,CT,LineX)
CBTMA Member
TRD Sway Bar, TRD CAI, TRD Dual Exhaust, Billet Grille, CF Dash Kit, Westin Platinum 4" Oval Nerfs, Low Range Off-Road 3/1 Lift, Rancho RS9000XL's - rear, Wet Okole Seat Covers - Fr&Rr, Toyo Open Country A/T's - 285/75/18 (35's), ProComp 6098s 18x8.5 +19, Hypertech Speedo Calibrator, Lund Genesis Tri-fold Tonneau, OE BackUp Camera, OE Fender Flares, VLeds Interior, Kenwood DNX8120 w/HD Radio and Rear Monitor
Beer please! CBTMA (Member and Founding Father: Est. August 15, 2008)
Clicky>>> What The Heck is CBTMA
Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
Re: Meaningful differences in the 3"/1" lift kits?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhollack
I emailed both Readylift and Lowrangeoffroad for a response to the offset that truxxx does. Here is the response I received from Lowrangeoffroad. Havent heard back yet from Readylift.
"To answer your question, .... one logical cost effective way to have the spacer be made- out of aluminum machined just like ours are. Having 2 conflicting metals using studs that are pre-tapped and machined into the spacer is the best way of constructing a lift of this nature."
Uhm. I had to read it twice, "conflicting metals is best". What about when two electrochemically dissimilar metals come into physical contact? Structural steel (.50 Anodic Index) and wrought aluminum (.90 Anotic Index) are pretty far apart on the galvanic chart of materials. Not the best choice for suspension parts exposed to harsh outdoor conditions.
And this doesn't start to address the two metal's physical allowables for design strength or the differences in the coefficients of thermal expansion.
Maybe it's fine. But making a statement that having 2 conflicting metals is best blows my mind.
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"The beauty of the second amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it." -- Thomas Jefferson
Re: Meaningful differences in the 3"/1" lift kits?
I have 305/55R20's on my pickup now. After reading a lot on this site, I thought I would have some rubbing on hard/sharp turns. I don't have a skid plate but, I do have all the factory mud guards and wheel well stuff. I did a sanity check and verified I don't have spacers on the front shock towers or a block on the rear axle (I have the low front high rear end).
Are the aluminum spacers on the Low Range kit better then the steel Ready Lift versions? On the farm, steel worked well and aluminum had issues with stress cracks and that awful black dust from abrasion so, I'm thinking a Ready Lift might be slightly better.
With a 3/1 lift, will 325/60R20's fit? At what point should I consider a ProComp 6" lift?
Also, if I get new rims with a 6" lift should I go with 18's (it looks like the tire sizes in the 20" diameters are limited and the 18's are plentiful)?
Thanks for helping out the new guy.
__________________
2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab SR5 with the 5.7L V-8 and Doug Thorley headers
"Trying to tax yourself into prosperity is like standing in a bucket and trying to pick yourself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill?
Re: Meaningful differences in the 3"/1" lift kits?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhollack
I emailed both Readylift and Lowrangeoffroad for a response to the offset that truxxx does. Here is the response I received from Lowrangeoffroad. Havent heard back yet from Readylift.
"To answer your question, no there is no offset on the spacer. We found that upon installation and design there was no need for an offset. There doesn't need to be on our spacers because there is no interference with the upper control arm at full droop or at full compression. This only happens when you have a larger spacer. I have a brand new TRD Tundra coil-over assembly sitting on the bench that I use for quality control purposes even though I have never had any issues with quality control. The top stud spacing on the Tundra is a 4 bolt pattern with a slight offset on the studs (they are not concentric) Our spacers have arrows CNC machined in the spacer that shows alignment on the top of the strut. If you have taken apart a Tundra strut you will notice from the factory an arrow pointing out. The spacer will only go on the strut one way, and the holes are machined with much higher accuracy and a much better output than you can get with a CNC plasma, or with a lazer cut welded spacer. Even in a tight tolerance jig, upon welding any strut spacer will warp and the only way to fix that would be to machine the mating surfaces...at that point there would be only one logical cost effective way to have the spacer be made- out of aluminum machined just like ours are. Having 2 conflicting metals using studs that are pre-tapped and machined into the spacer is the best way of constructing a lift of this nature. I went as far as providing 12mm head bolts with an extra large flange area for the skid plate drop, something only a technician would notice because of changing oil or removing the skid plate without having to change sockets in their impact. Also, many other skid plate drop bolts used have no flange, making the skid plate hole wollow out with time. We took the time to noice this was a problem and came up with a solution. The differential drop is another story...one kit on the market in particular uses too large of a spacer which makes the differential mounting areas have metal to metal contact. This is something that goes unnoticed by many people installing the kit."
If you need anymore information, please let me know. I am sure you as well as the many other people who are running our lift will be well pleased.
Errrr... I don't like the sounds of that.
Anybody know which lift he's referring to? I'd like to be sure I don't buy that one.
Re: Meaningful differences in the 3"/1" lift kits?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian_Yoda
Errrr... I don't like the sounds of that.
Anybody know which lift he's referring to? I'd like to be sure I don't buy that one.
Well, I don't think he's speaking of the Truxxx...I know for a fact I do not have any unnecessary metal to metal contact from the diff drop.
__________________
Beer please! CBTMA (Member and Founding Father: Est. August 15, 2008)
Clicky>>> What The Heck is CBTMA
Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
Meaningful differences in the 3"/1" lift kits?
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