That was just for the H-pipe? Anyone know how much I can expect to pay an exhaust shop to make an H-pipe?
Not tring to answer for Ballin but I've talked to him about this via PM. For 157 it was for the piping where it unbolts at the flanges back to where the muffler inlet would be and it includes a crossover/H pipe. Take a look at my photo gallery and you'll see a picture (its the first picture under the sweet mercy album) that shows what I'm talking about. It's a nice piece. Nothing is inexpensive anymore although many things are cheap.
Any reputable custom exhaust shop should be able to fabricate an h-pipe for you.
I was afraid you'd say that.. LOL!. Just the word "CUSTOM" alone in most shops around here comes with a hefty price tag.. Likely 3x what it would cost to just buy a pre-made Hpipe that I could just ask them to weld in..
Hmm.. Appreciate you showing me those.. The only thing however is they are $19.42 each with a calculated shipping fee for my location is $10.54
on top of that I would need to buy 2 of them..
I'm in Florida and don't have to worry about rust as much.. I think it would be less expensive to go with the ones from Jegs.
What it comes down to for me is the confusion around what size pipe diameter.. Theres reference to Internal I.D. and External I.D. I've heard 2.25 and 2.50 thrown around a few times.. I have no clue what size pipes I have stock..
B.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweet Mercy
I don't see why it wouldn't work or you can get it in stainless off ebay.
What are you going to use from the flanges to the H pipe to the muffler inlets? Your OE stuff?
Hmm.. Appreciate you showing me those.. The only thing however is they are $19.42 each with a calculated shipping fee for my location is $10.54
on top of that I would need to buy 2 of them..
I'm in Florida and don't have to worry about rust as much.. I think it would be less expensive to go with the ones from Jegs.
What it comes down to for me is the confusion around what size pipe diameter.. Theres reference to Internal I.D. and External I.D. I've heard 2.25 and 2.50 thrown around a few times.. I have no clue what size pipes I have stock..
B.
Here's an exert from classicchambered.com's FAQ:
The entry of mufflers are sized ID, exhaust pipe is sized OD - this is why muffler entries/exits always fit over the pipe & then clamp. A 2-1/2" POWERSTICK is 2-1/2" ID at the entry/exit
Never bothered me any,some long grade pulls get the pipes rumbling pretty nice.Lets ya know that 5.7 is on duty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bilztrd
I might have missed this, but does any one do any heavy towing with this set up (9K)?
While towing @60-65 MPH, what does it sound like inside?
I want to do an exhaust but my concern is towing. Thanks!
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I care not who defended our freedom in the past, who defends it tommorrow is who means the world today.
The trouble with the world is not that people know too little, but that they know so many things that ain't so
- Mark Twain
This article was written somewhere back in early 2k ?
It brings to light the simplicity and function of exhaust on an automobile.
Depending on your comprehension skills,it also murders a few of the alleged Top Dog systems (and their hype)on the market today. Auto Exhaust Science
__________________
I care not who defended our freedom in the past, who defends it tommorrow is who means the world today.
The trouble with the world is not that people know too little, but that they know so many things that ain't so
- Mark Twain
First of all guys, I gotta watch what I say on here since I'm not a paying advertiser. If you have product questions, PM or E-mail me. I appreciate all the positive plugs you guys have embellished my products with - thank you. I'll continue to chime in occasionally with technical stuff if it will help someone. I'm not oblivious to other products (I used to work for Dynomax/Walker/Thrush about 9 years ago & was their main performance exhaust tech), & there are other very good mufflers on the market. One type does not fit all!
As far as H-pipes, here's the formula: The crossover section should be 75% of the size of the pipes. For a 2.5" pipe system, the optimum-sized crossover pipe would be 2". I'm looking into adding some H-pipes to the lineup. There is also a recommended optimum location to place the crossover, but you will not be able to do it on your trucks because of the cat converter/headpipe configurations.
The other thing - catalytic converters. People think the OEM cats don't flow as well as aftermarket "performance" cats - I strongly disagree with this. Most cats have a certain # of cells (honeycomb) per square inch, & since the honeycomb design came into being, they all flow pretty freely. The other big thing to keep in mind, is OEM cats are built to last - they are very durable. I believe the OEM warranty on them is 8 years or 100,000 miles. To last that long, they have a MUCH higher concentration of precious metals applied to the "washcoat" on the bricks, this is why OEM cats are so expensive. Aftermarket cats I've seen are made to last about 2 years, & they will not last the long haul like OE cats will, plus I don't think they flow any better. The Dynomax cats ("high performance" cats) are marketed that way - as high performance. They are the SAME part # & same parts as regular Walker cats. IF you pull off your OEM cats or headpipe assemblies, SAVE them. It will be good to have them if you sell your truck!
Also, some OEM systems may have oddball diameter exhaust pipes - especially import vehicles. The STANDARD sized pipes for all aftermarket systems is sized OD. So if you have a Magnaflow, Corsa, or Dynomax system for example in 2.5", the pipes are OD. Aftermarket mufflers have ID sized bushings (a/k/a "necks") so the exhaust pipe slips INSIDE the muffler inlets/outlets ALWAYS!
Hmm.. Appreciate you showing me those.. The only thing however is they are $19.42 each with a calculated shipping fee for my location is $10.54
on top of that I would need to buy 2 of them..
I'm in Florida and don't have to worry about rust as much.. I think it would be less expensive to go with the ones from Jegs.
What it comes down to for me is the confusion around what size pipe diameter.. Theres reference to Internal I.D. and External I.D. I've heard 2.25 and 2.50 thrown around a few times.. I have no clue what size pipes I have stock..
B.
From my understanding you can go with either 2.25" or 2.5" H-pipe/inlet pipes as long as you go with 2.25" ID Powersticks to maintain tq/hp through your desired rpm range. From the mufflers on out, you can go with whatever you want, no smaller than 2.5" is a good rule of thumb.
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2007 Tundra 5.7L RCSB 6 spd auto 2WD / Slate Metallic
The stock exhaust pipes from each bank for the most part are 2.25"ID Putting a 2.5" H-pipe assembly will cause a hot spot on the downstream side of the H configuration due to the step-down from 2.5 to 2.25.
Hot spots will cause exhaust droan.
Using a piece of 2.5" tubing for the H beam(cross section only) between the two stock down pipes will not hurt anything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClevelandTundra
From my understanding you can go with either 2.25" or 2.5" H-pipe/inlet pipes as long as you go with 2.25" ID Powersticks to maintain tq/hp through your desired rpm range. From the mufflers on out, you can go with whatever you want, no smaller than 2.5" is a good rule of thumb.
__________________
I care not who defended our freedom in the past, who defends it tommorrow is who means the world today.
The trouble with the world is not that people know too little, but that they know so many things that ain't so
- Mark Twain
Re: Question for PowerStick
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