Rone, I would trash the bolts you bought and purchase "hardened" bolts like the ones supplied. Or purchase the correct hardened lock nuts to fit the hardened bolts they supplied. It may not make a difference, but I'm sure there's a reason they supplied the hardened pieces instead of plain stainless or zinc coated steel. I decided to purchase washers to put between upper end link spacers and the hitch (frame).... and spray the bar black. Other than that, everything was complete in my kit. Great write up! What software did you use to add the arrows and text?
Evol- the torque specs are supplied in the sway bar instructions and seem correct. If I remember, they give you a pretty good leeway on the end link bolts- something like 45 ft-lb +/- 12ft-lb. Don't remember the U-bolt specs off the top of my head. The upper link bolt-to-frame spec is 90 ftlb. I would highly recommend an impact wrench on the frame bolt unless you plan on removing the tire and SAFELY supporting the vehicle to tighten the bolt. It's a little difficult to get in a position to manually torque that thing to 90, especially on the tailpipe side.
I thought about getting different bolts, but the ones I picked up have the same numbers stamped on the tops of them as the TRD-included bolt so I assumed they were the same strength. No? I guess I'll contact toyotaterritory.com and see if they'll get me the correct ones.
Match the markings on the head of the bolt. Assuming metric, if the originals are 8.8, replace with 8.8, if 10.9, then you want 10.9, etc.
If it's US bolts, then you want to match the radial ticks on the head... a grade 8 bolt will have 6 lines on it.
The color is not an indicator of grade of bolt.
The included bolts had an 8.8 on their head, and they were a gold-ish color. The ones I replaced them with have an 8.8 on their head, and they're a more typical silver color. Is this okay?
The included bolts had an 8.8 on their head, and they were a gold-ish color. The ones I replaced them with have an 8.8 on their head, and they're a more typical silver color. Is this okay?
I got the same stuff you did at ACE hardware store, and they confirmed that that is the same thing, only different color and manufacturer. No worries.
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2007 Toyota Tundra CrewMax Limited 5.7L 2WD, Timberland
The included bolts had an 8.8 on their head, and they were a gold-ish color. The ones I replaced them with have an 8.8 on their head, and they're a more typical silver color. Is this okay?
Yup. They're the same grade so there's no issues with strength.
The yellow zinc plating is more corrosion resistant, so *if* they rust and look bad then you can replace them.
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~Michael
2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7 2WD - Toy Hauler / 2006 Toyota Sienna Limited - Kid Hauler / 1993 Toyota MR2 - Autocross Car
Mods: Tekonsha P3; Tow Mirrors; TRD Wheels; TPMS Pipe Bomb
did you use impact wrench for bolt on frame and did you drop the wheel like some state have done??
I used a tq wrench on everything but the frame bolts, impact wrench on the frame simply because it was the easiest thing to use to get the bolt off with and not have to remove the wheel. Definitely make sure the frame bolts are not cross-threaded before using the impact to finish tightening.
I did NOT remove the wheels to torque the frame bolts. I simply used my torque wrench while laying on the ground (the driver's side was easier because I could pull down on the wrench to tighten, while the passenger side I was having to push up without hitting the exhaust). It's not hard to do the install with the wheels still in place and the truck sitting on the ground.
I did NOT remove the wheels to torque the frame bolts. I simply used my torque wrench while laying on the ground (the driver's side was easier because I could pull down on the wrench to tighten, while the passenger side I was having to push up without hitting the exhaust). It's not hard to do the install with the wheels still in place and the truck sitting on the ground.
Agreed. I took a second look and I made a mistake when I said it would be difficult to manually torque the bolt with the wheels on.
Whats the deal with the wrong thread count nuts!!! That just drove me crazy seeing as it is Sunday and when I realized it, it was too late to go to Home Depot or Lowes! Nothing like a job halfway done to ruin your evening!
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07 SR5 5.7 Dbl Cab Tundra
Debadged, Gianna Blitz 22's black w/Chrome inserts, Bakflip G2
Re: How To Install Rear Swaybar:
Linear Mode
