5th wheel backup camera
First, thanks to all at the Solutions site, couldn’t have done this without the wealth of info gleaned here.
Keep in mind I have already done the selectable camera-on mod and it works with the stock tailgate cam, making it easier to do the 5er mod without leaving the truck in reverse with the parking brake on during testing.
First I needed the tailgate 4 pin connector so I could plug in the 5er’s camera. As I posted before, a lot of time was spent digging through local boneyards looking for this connector. The connector shows up in a lot of other applications on many Toyotas, so I figured I had a chance, Not !!!!!
So, in frustration I started digging in earnest on google. After a lot of variations on “Toyota connector” I came up with a PDF documenting all current Toyota connectors pictorially catalogued. After looking at the protection cap set included with our Toyotas, I identified what I hoped to be the correct connector (part # 90980-10943). Called my dealer and ordered the part ($6 and some change, $2 per pin). The part arrived the following week (took my protective cap to verify), and Halleluiah it fit!! Unfortunately, the nice guys at the parts department took it upon themselves to install the pigtail wires in the connector, all black (I wanted it to correspond to the harness color code). Oh well, they didn’t charge me for the pins.
On to the camera install. I do A/V design and install. I have many resources for cameras. scdlink.com, mcmelectronics.com , tecnek.com, and more.
I wanted a wide-angle camera, at least160 degrees, dome style, waterproof, vandal proof, 12VDC operation (many come in 24VAC). Found it at the scdlink.com website for about $120.00.
On to the drilling and pulling. Luckily the galley in my 5er is on the back wall. I wanted the camera fairly high on the back, and it just so happened to be directly behind the location of the microwave. I used a stud finder to locate the a place without a stud because the camera I used is capable of be recessed reducing the visual impact on the appearance. First I drilled a small hole 1/8” to verify that I was happy with the location, finished up with the hole saw on the exterior and a bit to accommodate my wire on the inside. Some silicone on the camera and three screws.
From the beginning my plan was to get power for the camera from the 5er. Just so happens the refrigerator runs on 12volts (actually it runs on LP or 110 with 12v control). The access panel on the rear exterior is for the refrige. I did my wire pull from that location and got my power there. Above the microwave is an open space; I installed my camera power switch there. I used RG6 co-ax for my video line; you can use any 75-ohm cable. I used the RG6 because I had it (this will bite me in the arrs later). There is a Siamese video cable available that pairs co-ax with power for you folks who want to get your power up front. Once I had the video line out the bottom in the back I zip-tied it along the LP line that runs the length of the camper, another challenging snake job through the front storage compartment and on to the 5er hitch arm.
So the last challenge, terminating my hard-fought and found 4 pin weather-proof Toyota connector.
As I mentioned before the nice guys at Toyota put all black wires in my connector. So I laid on my back under the tailgate, connector in hand and with red, white and blue electrical tape I marked the corresponding black wires with the correct color tape. I also put clear heat-shrink tubing over the tape. Again, with all the good info available the color code is: Red: video+ the center of the co-ax.
Blue: video- the co-ax shield.
White: camera negative power.
Black: camera positive power.
Just a note, the Tundra does not supply 12VDC to the stock tailgate cam, its 7v (another reason to get your 12VDC from the 5th).
Prior to any permanent soldering I wanted to confirm operation. So, I grab a piece of scrap multiconductor wire, wire nutted it on to my new connector and plugged it into the truck. This allows me to work on the tailgate, not on my back on the ground, while testing. Next, I tie the other end of the test extension to the co-ax, red-center of co-ax, blue to shield and bummer, I get a picture but it at best sucks!!!
I have already covered the 7+ volt feed for the existing tailgate camera with heat shrink to avoid a possible accidental short. After some consideration I decide to tie the existing camera power ground to the video shield and voila, beautiful picture.
Now, I remove the connector from the truck, remove my test extension wire and move on to the permanent co-ax to connector procedure.
First I stripped the co-ax about an inch (here’s were I get bit). I like to pre-tin my solder connections. The center of the co-ax tins just fine. I twist the braid from the shield into a nice single bundle, apply heat, nothing; I even go as far as trying plumbers solder flux. Can’t get the shield to take any solder. As it turns out I seldom solder co-ax. I almost entirely use compression type connections. And I failed to realize the braid shield on this convenient lying around piece of co-ax is aluminum.
Now I have no options, I will have to come up with a mechanical connection or pull new wire (no way!!!).
Here’s my solution. Re-strip the co-ax leaving the shield intact. I arrange a double layer of heat shrink for the center conductor. Another double layer that will accommodate all three wires, and a double layer to cover everything. I solder the center conductor; apply its double heat shrink layer. Strip back ¾ “ of the blue and white and fan it around the undisturbed woven aluminum shield, apply its double layer shrink. Lay the 7V+ on top (as a stain relief and for future use). Then the final double heat shrink of everything up to the connector.
Ouch, the five P’s: Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance.
I have multiple pics of this mod, can't seem to fit them all on the post
5Th wheel camera
Linear Mode
