Im very close to buying a 2010 Tundra. I currently have a 2005 Tacoma that I have been very happy with once I had the suspension tsb and a couple other fixes done and since then everything has been fine.
My only concern is the widepsread discussion of the Tundra's non boxed frame. I agree is probably not as stiff as the other full size trucks but after a few years has it made any difference? Has anyone here actually had the bed hit the cab? Have you noticed a degraded ride after a few years? does the frame feel loose?
I know my tacoma sure doesnt feel as tight as it used to be, I just want to hear if this should be a concern of mine.
I test drove other trucks and when they are new you dont feel much difference on how rigid the frame is, they are all quiet.
Im really stuck because all of the trucks dont have everything I want.
The f150 is underpowered (it accelerates slowre than my Tacoma)
The Dodge used a 5 speed tranny with a huge gap bewteen first and second that kills towing acceleration.
The GM twins are impossible to find the 6.2 in anything but a loaded out vehicle that pushes the price past 40k
There is nothing to worry about in regards to the Tundra frame.
Just remember: stiffness does not equal strength. Just because the Tundra frame isn't as stiff doesn't mean it isn't as strong or stronger then the F150
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2007 Tundra 5.7 6-spd 2wd
Silver, double cab, short bed
TRD package
I agree is probably not as stiff as the other full size trucks but after a few years has it made any difference? Has anyone here actually had the bed hit the cab? Have you noticed a degraded ride after a few years? does the frame feel loose?
NOPE!...to all of the above.
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Beer please! CBTMA (Member and Founding Father: Est. August 15, 2008)
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Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
I put my tundra through more stress and strain than anyone else that owns a Tundra, I pretty much guarantee. I haven't posted in some time, but anyone else that remembers my previous post can assure you that I haul quite a bit of weight on a daily basis.
With close to 80k miles, I have yet to have any mechanical problems associated with the trans or engine. Last month I hauled nearly 1.5 million lbs worth of material and machinery to different parts of Houston, Texas and Louisiana! I average nearly 11k-13k lbs worth of equipment on each load depending on what size gooseneck trailer I need to use. I have a 28ft, (2)30ft and 40ft trailer.
Today I hauled 10 valves that weight 1100 lbs a piece on my 30ft'r. The Tundra and 30ft'r weigh 12,100lbs. This keeps me under the 26k gross that I am allowed. Mind you, I haul this on a daily basis and sometime on the weekend. I currently own two Tundras and a 3500 Dodge dually.
The frame thing is just a marketing ploy. someone boxes their frame and says its better. Well it could be better, and better than what, well maybe THEIR unboxed frame. It is like the six lug bolts. Ford and chevy used to have 5 and nobody complained. They went 6 and now it is suppose to be better. 6 cheaper bolts versus 5 better bolts.
F250's and F350's use "non" boxed open C channel frames ... maybe that should tell you something ... ever seen a trailor on an 18 wheeler boxed?? nope they use open C channel frames as well.
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2008 Tundra DC 4x4 5.7 Black w/Black interior
F250's and F350's use "non" boxed open C channel frames ... maybe that should tell you something ... ever seen a trailor on an 18 wheeler boxed?? nope they use open C channel frames as well.
Great point, trust me i used to drive only fords and im a pretty hard person to please but this truck will not let you down and ive never had anykind of cab/bed impacts while driving, and yea i do a lot of off road driving. Ive had my truck since 07 and it still feels the same as it did when i got it. (Got about 38K on it now) I can honestly say plan and simple its a great truck, you'll love it! Plus the towing power and just the way it feels when your draging 10K behind you, is something you will ONLY GET, WITH A TUNDRA.
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ITS 106 MILES TO CHICAGO, WE GOT A FULL TANK OF GAS, HALF A PACK OF CIGARETTES, ITS DARK, AND WERE WEARING SUNGLASSES...HIT IT.
PULL ME OVER RED, DCSB SR5 5.7L TRD 4x4,
*NEW AFE-Power cold air intake, *NEW OEM Towing mirrors installed, JBA exhaust, Removed pillar tape, Blacked out Yota logo on grille, Blacked out Tundrabadges, Black headlight mod, Painted diff.cover red, All weather floor mats, Fog lights, Black engine cover, Removed chrome tube running boards.
2005 Rockwood 26' 5'er, Michelin LTX MS tires, 270 watts of solar on the roof, 4 T-105 golf cart batteries, Xentrex converter, Outback FX2012T inverter/charger.
If you can't take it with ya, why bother with an RV!
2000 Tundra (bought 9/9/99)
JBA Headers
Gone but not forgotten~
No problems with my frame or any other mechanical issues to report at 28K on the odo. The front diff was replaced under a TSB that affected only 2007 and early 2008 model trucks, took the dealer a whopping 2 hours to do the work and get me back out the door, and honestly the problem was not a reliability issue but a noise issue.
I do have some complaints though that most of us do. The stock tires are garbage, so set aside $800-1000 for real tires or get them worked into your deal. Also the stock Toyota battery is garbage as well, so you might set aside another $150-200 to put a real battery in it. Both are really fairly minor issues that only 5% of the people that own these trucks will notice.
Thanks Coal Dragger, I'll watch for battery issues.Had the dealer change out the stock tires for Michelin LTX AT2s (stock size 18") I've "chirped" 'em onced but have yet to get 'em "hollering" around a turn
Thanks Coal Dragger, I'll watch for battery issues.Had the dealer change out the stock tires for Michelin LTX AT2s (stock size 18") I've "chirped" 'em onced but have yet to get 'em "hollering" around a turn
The battery in my truck seems to have terminal corrosion issues worse than any battery I have ever had in the past in any vehicle. I have cleaned them several times, and now the connections are ugly and will need replacing when I get a new battery. I have sprayed on the battery terminal corrosion inhibitor grease and that seems to have helped some.
When I do replace that POS battery I am going to an AGM type dry cell battery so I don't have to worry about it anymore. Most likely an Odyssey or Die Hard Platinum group 31 heavy duty unit, way more cold cranking amps, and just about twice the reserve power of the stock battery.
Ya the terminal on my '07 do the same thing, I am really thinking I will get the Odyssey battery, I always used them in my motorcycel and the post I read here a little while back was very positive about it.
2005 Rockwood 26' 5'er, Michelin LTX MS tires, 270 watts of solar on the roof, 4 T-105 golf cart batteries, Xentrex converter, Outback FX2012T inverter/charger.
If you can't take it with ya, why bother with an RV!
2000 Tundra (bought 9/9/99)
JBA Headers
Gone but not forgotten~
It's amazing how often this topic comes up! To repeat another post, my 99 GMC truck used an open-C frame, where my 08 Sierra uses a "full boxed" frame. The difference is a more "compliant" ride (by my feel), and it handles very well, but I doubt it's any "stronger". The Tundra frame looks good to me, but I wouldn't compare it to the HD open-C frames... it's closer to my previous 1500 frame in dimension... maybe a little heavier gauge. Personally, I wouldn't focus on the frame differences between the makes... I'd look at the rest of the truck and decide from there.
Tundra frame - does it really matter?
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