I'm getting sick and tired of shops continually cross threading bolts in my skid plate. Last time was the worst. I generally loose two bolts, this time I was missing one screw upfront and only had two bolts installed and one of those was cross threaded. I'll give them credit though, that cross threaded bolt was installed with a high torque air gun. I never thought I would get so much use out of an 18 inch breaker bar on such small bolts holding flimsy sheet metal.
I'm considering just throwing the skid plate away because I'm tired of replacing the bolts at ~$2 a pop and rethreading the holes. Heck, at this rate it won't be long before I will have to start rethreading with a larger tap.
If we really need the skid plates for some reason, what options exist for dealing with this type of abuse when we go in for routine maintenance?
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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab SR5 with the 5.7L V-8 and Doug Thorley headers
"Trying to tax yourself into prosperity is like standing in a bucket and trying to pick yourself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill?
When they get paid per job and the pay is poor, you can anticipate the result.
Ruining the skid plate screws is a result of two things.
1. Obviously, overtightening as stated.
2. Not reusing the originally cut threads each time the screw is removed / reinstalled.
The first time the screw is inserted into a "virgin" plastic nut, threads are cut. The key to thread longevity is to use these original cut threads for subsequent reinstallations instead of cutting new threads, as eventually the plastic nut gets chewed up from recutting over and over again.
When the screw is removed, reinstall it without cutting new threads by first gently placing the screw into the nut and turning it gently counter-clockwise (loosening direction). While doing this you will feel the screw drop into the original thread once per revolution. At the instant the screw drops, you have found the original thread. Then begin tightening (clockwise) until the screw if fully inserted. Tighten by hand with a nut driver only. This will drastically curtail the chances of overtorquing because you will feel it reach the bottom quite easily and it is far more difficult to overdrive it with no other mechanical advantage (wrench etc).
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Attention environmentalists, reduce emissions from this:
i think last time i was under mine, if we didnt have it, doesnt the plastic bumper portion just flop around? not like we can bolt it to anything unless we pull it back too far and distort things...
if its mainly for oil changes, do a search and see the guys who have built little trap doors into theirs...pretty slick.
personally i dont have too much issue with mine, although it does take a few tries to actually get it to line back up to reinstall but nothing to lose sleep over...or screw up a customers truck over.
Yep it's nuthen to lose sleep on or screw a customers truck up on unless your the lowest paid, most inexperienced kid in the shop and could care less. Why not design somethan simple and easy? KISS keep it simple stupid. In a perfect world you'd never expect someone that couldn't handle the skid plate to work on your 30,000$+ truck. Plus in a busy shop it's kinda hard to keep up with all those bolts. Remember the guy working on your truck probably gets 4 or 5 cell phone calls per job. Mom, wife, girlfriend, fishen partner, & boss damn were all these bolts go? Ram em up with the air gun. I hate letting anyone but me turn wrenches on my truck. It has a double locking design used in many commercial applications. An average dumbnuts ain't gona be able to deal with it.
Last edited by waiting tundra; 11-08-2009 at 04:18 PM.
speaking of, since this thing does bolt up and has those dam tabs that have to be slid over to lock...if the bolts are there it aint goin no where. im wanting to just cut those tabs/hooks off mine so it just bolts up and im done with it....no little pesky hooking tabs to get in the way...
speaking of, since this thing does bolt up and has those dam tabs that have to be slid over to lock...if the bolts are there it aint goin no where. im wanting to just cut those tabs/hooks off mine so it just bolts up and im done with it....no little pesky hooking tabs to get in the way...
I would say 75% of the struggle with handling the skid plate is related to those hooks. I think there is enough beef on the bolts alone to hold the skid plate, so I would also consider removing the hooks.
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Attention environmentalists, reduce emissions from this:
Now you have me wondering..... if I get the skid plate drop kit, if the stealership will lose the spacers when they change the oil.... Dooohh- just another thing to worry about.
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2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7L 4x4 Limited Salsa Red CrewMax
The purpose of the skid plate is simple to me - I drive busy highways where construction vehicles tend to loose things sometimes - swerving is not always an option so the skid plate is the only thing between a bag of mulch and my engine as I go over it at 70mph...
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2008 Tundra Crewmax Limited 4x4. Silver Metallic with Red Rock interior.
Do we really need skid plates?
Linear Mode
