Air Induction Pump - Page 16

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Thread: Air Induction Pump

  1. #226
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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    I just heard from one of my neighbors who wants me to look at his 07 Tundra - he pulled the DTCs and sure enough it was for the air pumps/valves (P2436, P2438 and P2442). We're going to take it all apart and try cleaning everything first. I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes and what I find...
    2007 Tundra 5.7 4x2 RCSB slate metallic
    2005 Corolla - all stock, cause it's the wifes
    1986 Mustang GT - the stereo is under the hood
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  3. #227
    OTR
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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    I look at these yesterday. All I can say it appears to be an engineering flaw IMO. The intake elbows are placed up high but angle down into the pumps. So if any water gets sprayed up there it will immediately run down into the pump and get sucked up on the next cold start, also corroded the valaves in the meantime. Also there is no clamps going into the pumps as stated, very loose fitment.
    I added 2.5ft of 1 1/4" hose to each intake with clamps. I placed the hoses along the fender well toward the door facing down. I figure that I would have to start the truck in a river to suck up any water and no water would go up the hose without any suction. I planned on putting the hose into the engine air intake but it would restrict the airflow to much. I also didn't want to decrease the airflow into the pumps that could throw a code prematurely. I also added clamps to all other connections going into the pumps.
    I hope this works since I am at 80,000 miles. I am currently in Alaska and don't need to be left stranded in the middle nowhere when I'm not at the top of the food chain. I took pics but typing from my Droid, please excuse grammar errors.

  4. 04-12-2010, 08:37 PM
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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    Pumped air injection systems use a vane pump turned by the engine via a belt. The pump's air intake is centrifugally filtered by a rotating screen to exclude dirt particles large enough to damage the system. Air is delivered under pressure to the injection point(s). A check valve prevents exhaust forcing its way back through the air injection system, which would damage the pump and other components.

  6. #229
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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    Pumped air injection systems use a vane pump turned by the engine via a belt. The pump's air intake is centrifugally filtered by a rotating screen to exclude dirt particles large enough to damage the system. Air is delivered under pressure to the injection point(s). A check valve prevents exhaust forcing its way back through the air injection system, which would damage the pump and other components.
    Have you been following this thread? The Tundra uses electric pumps, and a set of valves and sensors to control airflow and sense correct valve operation. Yes they are likely vane pumps judging by the sound.

    OTR,

    Good plan! My choice too, but I also will add an oiled foam Unifilter pod filter(s) of adequate size facing down and mounted to the fender. This will filter incoming air, as well as shield against splash water. Should the foam become wet during driving, it will naturally drip dry before the next cold start. With adequate size it sould rarely need service under normal conditions, and flow per unit area will be low as to prevent it from pulling any water droplets through.
    Glenn

    '10 Tundra Crewmax
    '08 Ducati Hypermotard

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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    Quote Originally Posted by Bradscc View Post
    Again, my Toy Tech has mentioned ALL he has ever replaced have been Diverter Valves, no pumps at all and its due to water getting into the Diverter Valves, corroding the mechanisms so they don't function correctly any more and they "stick" closed.

    Street water/slush mixed with whatever they are using to salt the roads up here in this neck of the woods, is some pretty corrosive stuff...it would make any plated metal pit and corrode over time if allowed to come in contact with internal valve components.

    Brad
    And in my case I think your Toy Tech is spot on!
    But how is water getting into the Diverter Valves? Condensation or are the pumps doing it?
    We don't get slush and salt on our roads, but the humid salty air down here will cause rust to form on bare metal; except stainless steel of course.
    Where are the Diverter Valves located and do you have any pics of them?

    Later...
    2007 White Tundra, DC, 5.7L, 2WD, Towing package, Rhino Liner, TRD S/C, TRD Exhaust, Unichip with Hesco tune, Dyno Jet Wideband, Auburn LSD, Platinum Wheels wrapped with Yokohama 305s.

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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    WOW!! I purchased my 07 in Pensacola,FL (BEACH) drove to Detroit,MI many times back&forth and currently drive in Detroit snow,salt,slush,mud, whatever....No problems(made in Texas), but mabe some people are going through the automatic carwash, or we are talking about the 09 model and above. When

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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    Quote Originally Posted by TucsonCrew View Post
    That might be because the 07's have more mileage on them. By this time next year the 08's might start having the problem and so on. From looking at the part diagram part #17621(upper left) looks like where it gets its air from. This could mean the water can drain down in them. I wonder if we could flip them around if that would help. Another thought, maybe we could put a hose around the top and run it up high and then down. This might prevent water draining down into them. Then on the other side of the hose we could put a valve cover vent in it to prevent even more water getting inside.

    This is Post #121 above...looks to me like intakes are feeding the pumps which are then pumping (air/water?) to diverter valves which are down stream from pumps...pumps are p/n 17610C & D...diverter valves are p/n 25720...

    Brad
    Last edited by Bradscc; 04-13-2010 at 08:58 AM.

  10. #233
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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    So the engineer for this part did accept my invitation to join my linkedin network. So I now have ALL of his contact information. I want to put an email together to send to him but don't have the time to go back through the last 17 pages to see the following so can someone shoot me over this information -

    A - How many failures have been reported on this thread.
    B - How many failures are '07, '08, etc.
    C - The average miles per failure.
    D - The main reason the dealership is giving for the failure.

    If there's anything else that you think is pertinent shoot that over to me too and we can go directly to the source responsible for desiging this in the first place.

    Thanks!
    Current -
    2008 White Crewmax 4x4
    2005 Camry

    Past -
    2000 Tundra - Sold -130K miles
    1995 4runner - Sold - 193K

  11. #234
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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    Have they gotten any of the pumps and valve bodies back to see what exactly the failure is from? I don't mean "its got water in it". That's a symptom. Is it because the pump isn't water tight and water caused a short or has the valve assembly corroded from moisture and caused it to bind. This is what I'd ask:

    • Have they received any sample pumps and valve assemblys back for testing?
    • What is the exact cause of failure of each part? Corrision? Rust? Shorting? etc.
    • If he had to redesign the part what would the new part look like? Where would it be different?
    • How can we prevent this problem now? An intake filter? Reroute the intake hose? Remove the valves and replace the vanes with a better material? etc.


    Thanks for jumping on this! Points sent.
    >>big$$

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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    Ok Slowyota here's my info:

    2007 DBLCAB, 5.7L.
    69K on the clock.
    Dealer scanned and found codes P2440.2441 & 2442.
    Recomended replacing airpumps and diverter valves.

    NOTE:

    I had not posted the past 2 days because yesterday, at first startup when I have seen the MIL's go off, nothing happened! No lights, nada!

    SO I waited until this morning, and got the same result! No lights!

    THe only thing that I did was take out the pumps, and take them apart to see if I could spot anything (nothing).

    I am beginning to suspect that I may have had a loose connection or a kinked wire or something like that. All atmospheric/weather conditions have been stable the last 2 weeks or so.

    I did have to disconnect the pumps, perhaps when I re-connected them I got the conectors to seat better, or perhaps had some moisture in the connectors? I really did not see anything untoward. The pumps were out of the car for about an hour and a half. Or the diverter valves "unstuck" themselves, for now.

    I am sure that there are some diverter valve and/or air pump problems out there, given the number of folks stating their case in the thread, but If you are having this issue I urge you to check those connectors. You may just get lucky and avoid, at the very least, leaving your truck at the dealer, or an up to 4K bill if you are out of warranty!

    Of course, should this change and I ge the MIL's again, you'll be the second to know.

    THe first to know will be my neighbors when they hear me scream at the truck!

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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    You don't think a dealer would charge thousands of dollars to fix...a bad connection!!

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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    Quote Originally Posted by Bradscc View Post
    You don't think a dealer would charge thousands of dollars to fix...a bad connection!!
    GM trucks, mine was a '97 Silverado, had a rash of fuel pump failures. I had two replaced in the 10 years I owned the truck, at $700.00 each. I, and a friend with a similar truck, discovered that the connection from the pump to the harness easily corroded causing a bad connection. Cleaning the connector fixed my last pump failure. Could this also be the cause or air pump failures in the Tundra?

    This Thread is a little disheartening and has me hoping my '07 with 60k miles doesn't have a similar failure. I did buy the Toyota Platinum warranty so it had better be covered or else Toyota can kiss my future business goodbye. I am in Arizona with no humidity and very little rain, so water ingestion is a very remote possibility.

    In light of all the bad publicity Toyota has had in the recent months you would think they would take care of their present customers and fix it regardless of miles, etc. Too bad this problem doesn't come to light in the news media...then something might be done to fix this expensive problem.
    '07 Tundra SR5, 2WD DC, 5.7L, Salsa Red Pearl with Running Boards, Delta Toolbox.

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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    So everyone that has this problem throwing similar codes, should either get the dealer to clean ALL connections on BOTH the air pumps AND BOTH Diverter Valves and then clear all the codes...and do this as a "first" step...then see if codes return...

    ...or do it yourself saving potentially 100's of dollars in labor, for them to get at/to the connections to be cleaned!

    Once the connections are clean, bright and mated, spray them all over with clear coat and you should be good to go for a good long while...

  16. #239
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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    Quote Originally Posted by big 10 View Post
    WOW!! I purchased my 07 in Pensacola,FL (BEACH) drove to Detroit,MI many times back&forth and currently drive in Detroit snow,salt,slush,mud, whatever....No problems(made in Texas), but mabe some people are going through the automatic carwash, or we are talking about the 09 model and above. When
    Yep, bought mine in Jul'07 at Bob Tyler Toyota!
    2007 White Tundra, DC, 5.7L, 2WD, Towing package, Rhino Liner, TRD S/C, TRD Exhaust, Unichip with Hesco tune, Dyno Jet Wideband, Auburn LSD, Platinum Wheels wrapped with Yokohama 305s.

  17. #240
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    Default Re: Air Induction Pump

    Quote Originally Posted by Bradscc View Post
    This is Post #121 above...looks to me like intakes are feeding the pumps which are then pumping (air/water?) to diverter valves which are down stream from pumps...pumps are p/n 17610C & D...diverter valves are p/n 25720...

    Brad
    Thanks Brad!
    2007 White Tundra, DC, 5.7L, 2WD, Towing package, Rhino Liner, TRD S/C, TRD Exhaust, Unichip with Hesco tune, Dyno Jet Wideband, Auburn LSD, Platinum Wheels wrapped with Yokohama 305s.

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