Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

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Thread: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

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    Default Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    Wanted to introduce myself and start with a how to:

    Have seen many posts on how to make all the windows auto up and down. Here's how I did it:

    Shopping List:

    5 Autoloc WC1000 ($172.35…new…shipped…amazon.com)
    4 Pac Audio TR-7 ($82.26…new…shipped…ebay.com)
    5 30A Relays ($35…new…bought locally)
    Wires/Connectors/3M tape/grommets (already had most of the items needed…if not figure another $50 to $100)
    Total Spend: $289.61

    Schematics:

    Windows:


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    Sunroof:


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    Components:

    Autoloc WC1000: Module that adds auto up/down to every window through the stock switches. Also has to inputs (one up, one down) to activate the auto up or down when the respected input sees a “ground”. All were wired per instructions included with the units. All WC1000’s were mounted as close to the motor for each window as I could get them.
    Pac Audio TR-7: Programmable module used to activate relays.

    Windows: Program #14 was used to count the number of locks/unlocks seen prior to activating relays (I used 2X within 4 seconds in my program since 1 lock/unlock does all the doors…3X, 4X, 5X would also work). I used one of these units to “ground” all the WC1000’s “Up” signal (“Up” TR-7) and one to “ground” the “Down” signal (“Down” TR-7). I mounted these TR7’s in the drivers side front door sill.


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    Sunroof: Program #15 was used to power the sunroof when one lock signal (from door or FOB) is sensed and latch it on for a programmable time. The sunroof takes ~8 seconds to open and close so I programmed the TR-7 to remain latched for 15 seconds. The last TR-7 was also programmed the same (program #15) but used to sense one unlock signal (from door or FOB). I mounted these TR7’s in the drivers side rear door sill.

    Relays:

    Windows:

    One relay was used for all of the WC1000’s Down Input to be grounded when the “Down” TR-7 sees 2X unlock from the switch on drivers door or FOB. This relay was mounted in the drivers side front door sill.

    One relay was used for all of the WC1000’s Up Input to be grounded when the “Up” TR-7 sees 2X lock from the switch on drivers door or FOB. This relay was mounted in the drivers side front door sill.


    Sunroof:

    One relay was used to latch on power to the sunroof when 1X lock or unlock (two TR-7s activate the same relay) was sensed from switch on drivers door or FOB. This will apply power to sunroof prior to the second button push that activates all windows. This relay was mounted in the drivers side rear door sill.

    One relay closes the “close” circuit for the sunroof when the “Up” TR-7’s output is activated (2X Lock). This relay was mounted above the headliner to the right of the upper console area.

    One relay closes the “open” circuit for the sunroof when the “Down” TR-7’s output is activated (2X Unlock). This relay was mounted above the headliner to the left of the upper console area.


    Power:

    Ran direct power to battery with in-line 30A fuse. Used the existing grommet just above passenger sidekick panel to pass through firewall. Supply wire size 14 gauge.

    Windows:

    Passenger front: removed interior door panel and speaker. Measured for clear location of the WC1000 (needs a flat place on door that doesn’t interfere with door panel). Adhered the WC1000 to the door with 3M Emblem Tape.

    Fished 3 wires (+12V, Up Signal, and Down Signal) from passenger compartment through the rubber flex boots (had to remove door sill and kick panel cover). Once the wires were inside the door, I used the boot above the speaker to pass the wires through the skin of the door. Connected the power and the up and down signal wires.

    Installed the rest of the wires per the WC1000 instructions. (I used a bolt in every door as the ground…making sure that all paint was removed prior to tightening the terminal down).

    Test each window by tapping the up signal wire to a ground. Window should roll up. Do the same with the down signal. I also tested each door at the local switch and the driver’s door for auto up/down functionality as well.

    Passenger rear: Same as above, but fishing the wires from the passenger compartment to the door was different. These doors have connectors on the truck side of the flexible boot. There are only 2 pins unoccupied on the Crewmax Limited and we need three (so using factory pins was not an option for me).

    I chose to cut away the male side of the plug’s top and bottom. Notching the plug allowed it to retain its closing capability, but now also allowed two passages for wires to be pulled through it (the female already has factory holes in it). I fished 2 wires through the top hole and 1 wire through the bottom.

    Once the wires were fished from the passenger compartment to the door, I drilled a hole in the door below the speaker. This hole allowed the newly fished wires from inside the door cavity, to pass through a grommet and out to where I mounted the WC1000. Wired all per the instructions and tested prior to reassembly.

    Rear window:
    The motor for this window is on the passenger side near the jack/lug wrench storage. I removed the plastic skin in front of the motor by pulling out the plastic knob and all of the other friction tabs. Mounted the WC1000 with 3M tape, and wired per the instructions. Tested prior to reassembly.

    Driver rear: Same as passenger side.

    Driver front: Same as passenger side but requires 5 wires to be fished through the door (+12v, Up Signal, Down Signal, Lock Signal, and Unlock Signal). Once the wires were fished from the passenger compartment to the door, I drilled a hole in the door below the speaker. This hole allowed the newly fished wires from inside the door cavity, to pass through a grommet and out to where I mounted the WC1000.


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    The Lock Signal wire splices directly into the line that sees 12V when any lock button is pressed (FOB too). The Unlock signal wire needs a 33k Ohm resistor added in series to the signal wire (see schematic and “Wiring” section).

    I mounted the WC1000, wired per the instructions, and tested all functions. I left this panel off for the rest of the install to leave access to the signal wires while installing the rest of the system.



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    Wiring

    Windows: I “daisy chained” all three wires (12V, Up, and Down) with a connection at every entry point to the passenger compartment (all four doors). I would have rather made the connection at the WC1000 itself, but that would drive twice as many wires going through the flexible boots that join the doors and the cab.

    Unlock Signal (blue wire of drivers door lock actuator): Gets 12V anytime a unlock button is pressed either on the driver door or the FOB. Two (programmable) of these signal inputs within 4 seconds turn on the “Down” TR-7 which momentarily closes the relay that connects all the WC1000’s down signal wires to a “ground”. All the windows travel all the way down with just this momentary “grounding”.

    Lock Signal (white wire of drivers door lock actuator): Gets 12V anytime a lock button is pressed either on the driver door or the FOB**. Two (programmable) of these signal inputs within 4 seconds turn on the “Up” TR-7 which momentarily closes the relay that connects all the WC1000’s up signal wires to a “ground”. All the windows travel all the way up with just this momentary “grounding”.

    **For some reason my truck also had voltage (0.4v or so) sent through this wire on the unlock command. I added a 33k ohm resistor since that 0.4 voltage kept triggering both the down and up TR-7’s (see pic below). Without this resistor the lock command would not make the windows would roll up since the “down” TR-7 was active at the same time as the “up”.


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    Sunroof Power:
    With the ignition off, there is no power to the sunroof. One TR-7 was connected to the “Lock” Signal (white wire of drivers door lock actuator) to power the Sunroof when it senses one Lock Signal from either pressing the FOB lock or the switch on the drivers door 1X. Program #15 was used to sense one signal and then latch on for a programmed time (15sec). I chose twice as long as it takes to open/close the sunroof.

    A second TR-7 was programmed with the same features but was used to sense the “Unlock” signal

    Both the TR-7’s that feed the power to the sunroof do so through the same relay (so lock or unlock 1X powers the sunroof up for 15 seconds). Both TR-7’s outputs close the relay connecting 12V power to the sunroof wire in the “A” pillar.

    The power feeding the sunroof can be accessed at the drivers side “A” pillar (see pic below). The blue wire only provides 12V with ignition on. I spliced the blue wire so that the relay that the TR-7’s turn on powers up the sunroof with the ignition off (second pic below).


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    Sunroof Open/Close: The panel that contains the sunroof switch can be accessed by removing the four torx screws holding the upper console in place.

    The connector on the back of the switch shows 5 wires. The black is the ground. When the white and the black connect, the sunroof opens (Note: I used a blue wire to extend the white wire to the relay). When the gray and the black connect, the sunroof closes (Note: I used a white wire to extend the gray wire to the relay).



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    Ready for reassembly:



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    I used a relay to connect the white and black upon getting a signal from the “Down” TR-7 blue wire output. I used a second relay to connect the gray and black upon getting a signal from the “Up” TR-7 blue wire output. I mounted these relays near the overhead console.

    “Close” relay:



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    “Open” relay:



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    Summary:
    Logically:

    Lock 1X :

    Sunroof “Lock” TR7 Powers Sunroof supply relay for 15 seconds

    Lock 2X:

    Window “Up” TR7 Closes Relay with all WC1000’s close wire connecting them to “ground”
    Window “Up” TR7 Closes Relay connecting sunroof gray to black wire

    Unlock 1X :

    Sunroof “Unlock” TR7 Powers Sunroof supply relay for 15 seconds

    Unlock 2X:

    Window “Down” TR7 Closes Relay with all WC1000’s open wire connecting them to “ground”
    Window “Down” TR7 Closes Relay connecting sunroof white to black wire

    http://home.comcast.net/~niedejb/pics2/allclose.MPG

    http://home.comcast.net/~niedejb/pics2/allopen.MPG

    http://home.comcast.net/~niedejb/pics/MOV04299.MPG

    http://home.comcast.net/~niedejb/pics/MOV04303.MPG


    Oh yeah and pics of my new to me '08 CrewMax



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    Last edited by niedejb; 06-24-2010 at 07:26 PM.

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  3. #2
    Supercharged Member RONE's Avatar
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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    Holy giant photos Batman!


    Welcome to the forum - that writeup is a great way to introduce yourself. Where did you order the AutoLocs from?

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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    Sorry bout the pics...thought the forum would shrink em to window size.

    amazon.com was the best price I could find. Shipped quick too.

  5. #4
    Senior Contributor Barney_Fife's Avatar
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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    someones gonna get a moderator to yell at em for the pic sizes hahahaa
    2007 Super White DC SR5 , TRD OffRoad; Sand Beige leather, 4.7, tinted windows, OEM running boards, tow mirrors with chrome covers, Armorlid tonneau, billet grille, aftermarket reverse sensors, flowmaster true duals with 3.5 rolled edge stainless tips, Sirius added via OEM module, 5000K HID lowbeams, KMC XD Hoss 20'' wheels in gloss black, Nitto Terra Grappler AT 285/55/20's, chrome door handle covers, smoothed and painted tailgate handle, 3 inch lift/levelling kit,1.5'' Rough Country lift blocks in rear, DVD headrest player/monitors, Rostra backup camera, SS bull bar with 6'' lights, Faux Carbon Fiber dash,console and door trim. Work stuff: red/blue LEDs in grille, headlight wig wag flasher, red/blue LED windshield light, red/blue LED deck lights in back glass, red/blue split 4 LED lights either side of license plate, wig wag backup and brake lamps. 100 watt siren and PA.

    Quote Originally Posted by steppy View Post
    what barney said sounds reasonable
    Quote Originally Posted by JMSinMD View Post
    what barney said sounds reasonable



  6. #5
    Mark it eight, Dude... MaylonTRD's Avatar
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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    Great way to start out on a forum! And yes those are some HUUUUUUGE pictures!!
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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    at least they are high res lol. nice write up. will fed ex my truck and you can get this done for me. welcome
    clever comment goes here.

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  8. #7
    Junior Member DCLB4X4's Avatar
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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    Nice write up. I had no idea one of these was available.
    Welcome to the forum.
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  9. #8
    Veteran Member dariusld's Avatar
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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    That is awesome and looks cool, but not very practical. I'm I missing something? I think I just don't understand. I thought it was something, then I watched the video

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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    Leave the truck with all the windows down and hit lock twice as you walk away to lock it and roll up all 5 windows of the crewmax is why I did it.

    Walking up to it on a hot day...unlock twice and all windows come down. Handy way to vent the truck prior to getting in.

    Bluetooth calls come in on the insterstate with any window down...lock lock on the driver door switch and all the windows come up.
    Last edited by niedejb; 06-07-2010 at 06:46 PM.

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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    So if i get what your saying that just one ulock or lock and nothing will happen but if you push it twice they will?
    Dont you need to hit unlock twice as is to unlock all doors? Will that be an issue in cold weather/snow/rain? unlock the car for everyone to get in and all the windows go down?
    If not then let me know this would be something I would be interested in doing if it worked.

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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    Quote Originally Posted by jcxstar13 View Post
    So if i get what your saying that just one ulock or lock and nothing will happen but if you push it twice they will?
    Yes. That is correct.

    Quote Originally Posted by jcxstar13 View Post
    Dont you need to hit unlock twice as is to unlock all doors?
    No. On my limited crewmax I have the ability to set the options to unlock all doors with 1 press of the unlock from the FOB.

    Quote Originally Posted by jcxstar13 View Post
    Will that be an issue in cold weather/snow/rain? unlock the car for everyone to get in and all the windows go down?
    If not then let me know this would be something I would be interested in doing if it worked.
    The TR-7 can also be programmed for 3x, 4x, 5x, presses etc (its user defined).

  13. #12
    Veteran Member 671Tundra's Avatar
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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    Huge Tundra = Huge Pictures.

    Welcome and great mod!!! Points sent...
    Last edited by 671Tundra; 06-08-2010 at 07:29 AM.


    2008 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7 4x4: Airaid CAD, Gibson Dual Turndown Exhaust, Billet Grill and Bumper Inserts, 6" ICON Coilovers Upgrade from PC Stage 1, ICON Billet UCAs, ICON Rear Piggyback Shocks, Eagle Alloy Wheels 197, NITTO Trail Grappler 35x12.5x18, Factory Fog Light Addition, Black Headlight Mod, Custom Skid Plate, ICON Shift Knob, Custom Tow Hooks, Line X - XTRA, Fab Fours Rear Bumper, White Knuckle Offroad Rock Sliders.

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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    cool that is what I wanted to know. I think i will have to give this mod a try. Any chance you took some pics of the set up with the door pannels off and how you rigged it up?
    How much did you spend on the parts?

  15. #14
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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    Awesome write up, but I lost you at "Everyone knows that the Autoloc WC1000 can make all the windows auto up/down.", lol!! Seriously, it looks like a great project to work on. Do you know if it is possible to do this on an SR5? Does the TR-7 operate in the same fashion on both the Limited and SR5 Tundras?
    11 Sienna SE FWD Black!! (Wife's Car)
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    Is modding ever complete? I think NOT!!

  16. #15
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    Default Re: Auto Power Window Up and Down How To

    It does... it's just a programmable "pulse sensor"...

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