Wanted to introduce myself and start with a how to:
Have seen many posts on how to make all the windows auto up and down. Here's how I did it:
5 Autoloc WC1000 ($172.35…new…shipped…amazon.com)
4 Pac Audio TR-7 ($82.26…new…shipped…ebay.com)
5 30A Relays ($35…new…bought locally)
Wires/Connectors/3M tape/grommets (already had most of the items needed…if not figure another $50 to $100)
Total Spend: $289.61
Autoloc WC1000: Module that adds auto up/down to every window through the stock switches. Also has to inputs (one up, one down) to activate the auto up or down when the respected input sees a “ground”. All were wired per instructions included with the units. All WC1000’s were mounted as close to the motor for each window as I could get them.Pac Audio TR-7: Programmable module used to activate relays.
Windows: Program #14 was used to count the number of locks/unlocks seen prior to activating relays (I used 2X within 4 seconds in my program since 1 lock/unlock does all the doors…3X, 4X, 5X would also work). I used one of these units to “ground” all the WC1000’s “Up” signal (“Up” TR-7) and one to “ground” the “Down” signal (“Down” TR-7). I mounted these TR7’s in the drivers side front door sill.
Sunroof: Program #15 was used to power the sunroof when one lock signal (from door or FOB) is sensed and latch it on for a programmable time. The sunroof takes ~8 seconds to open and close so I programmed the TR-7 to remain latched for 15 seconds. The last TR-7 was also programmed the same (program #15) but used to sense one unlock signal (from door or FOB). I mounted these TR7’s in the drivers side rear door sill.
One relay was used for all of the WC1000’s Down Input to be grounded when the “Down” TR-7 sees 2X unlock from the switch on drivers door or FOB. This relay was mounted in the drivers side front door sill.
One relay was used for all of the WC1000’s Up Input to be grounded when the “Up” TR-7 sees 2X lock from the switch on drivers door or FOB. This relay was mounted in the drivers side front door sill.
One relay was used to latch on power to the sunroof when 1X lock or unlock (two TR-7s activate the same relay) was sensed from switch on drivers door or FOB. This will apply power to sunroof prior to the second button push that activates all windows. This relay was mounted in the drivers side rear door sill.
One relay closes the “close” circuit for the sunroof when the “Up” TR-7’s output is activated (2X Lock). This relay was mounted above the headliner to the right of the upper console area.
One relay closes the “open” circuit for the sunroof when the “Down” TR-7’s output is activated (2X Unlock). This relay was mounted above the headliner to the left of the upper console area.
Ran direct power to battery with in-line 30A fuse. Used the existing grommet just above passenger sidekick panel to pass through firewall. Supply wire size 14 gauge.
Passenger front: removed interior door panel and speaker. Measured for clear location of the WC1000 (needs a flat place on door that doesn’t interfere with door panel). Adhered the WC1000 to the door with 3M Emblem Tape.
Fished 3 wires (+12V, Up Signal, and Down Signal) from passenger compartment through the rubber flex boots (had to remove door sill and kick panel cover). Once the wires were inside the door, I used the boot above the speaker to pass the wires through the skin of the door. Connected the power and the up and down signal wires.
Installed the rest of the wires per the WC1000 instructions. (I used a bolt in every door as the ground…making sure that all paint was removed prior to tightening the terminal down).
Test each window by tapping the up signal wire to a ground. Window should roll up. Do the same with the down signal. I also tested each door at the local switch and the driver’s door for auto up/down functionality as well.
Passenger rear: Same as above, but fishing the wires from the passenger compartment to the door was different. These doors have connectors on the truck side of the flexible boot. There are only 2 pins unoccupied on the Crewmax Limited and we need three (so using factory pins was not an option for me).
I chose to cut away the male side of the plug’s top and bottom. Notching the plug allowed it to retain its closing capability, but now also allowed two passages for wires to be pulled through it (the female already has factory holes in it). I fished 2 wires through the top hole and 1 wire through the bottom.
Once the wires were fished from the passenger compartment to the door, I drilled a hole in the door below the speaker. This hole allowed the newly fished wires from inside the door cavity, to pass through a grommet and out to where I mounted the WC1000. Wired all per the instructions and tested prior to reassembly.
Rear window: The motor for this window is on the passenger side near the jack/lug wrench storage. I removed the plastic skin in front of the motor by pulling out the plastic knob and all of the other friction tabs. Mounted the WC1000 with 3M tape, and wired per the instructions. Tested prior to reassembly.
Driver rear: Same as passenger side.
Driver front: Same as passenger side but requires 5 wires to be fished through the door (+12v, Up Signal, Down Signal, Lock Signal, and Unlock Signal). Once the wires were fished from the passenger compartment to the door, I drilled a hole in the door below the speaker. This hole allowed the newly fished wires from inside the door cavity, to pass through a grommet and out to where I mounted the WC1000.
The Lock Signal wire splices directly into the line that sees 12V when any lock button is pressed (FOB too). The Unlock signal wire needs a 33k Ohm resistor added in series to the signal wire (see schematic and “Wiring” section).
I mounted the WC1000, wired per the instructions, and tested all functions. I left this panel off for the rest of the install to leave access to the signal wires while installing the rest of the system.
Windows: I “daisy chained” all three wires (12V, Up, and Down) with a connection at every entry point to the passenger compartment (all four doors). I would have rather made the connection at the WC1000 itself, but that would drive twice as many wires going through the flexible boots that join the doors and the cab.
Unlock Signal (blue wire of drivers door lock actuator): Gets 12V anytime a unlock button is pressed either on the driver door or the FOB. Two (programmable) of these signal inputs within 4 seconds turn on the “Down” TR-7 which momentarily closes the relay that connects all the WC1000’s down signal wires to a “ground”. All the windows travel all the way down with just this momentary “grounding”.
Lock Signal (white wire of drivers door lock actuator): Gets 12V anytime a lock button is pressed either on the driver door or the FOB**. Two (programmable) of these signal inputs within 4 seconds turn on the “Up” TR-7 which momentarily closes the relay that connects all the WC1000’s up signal wires to a “ground”. All the windows travel all the way up with just this momentary “grounding”.
**For some reason my truck also had voltage (0.4v or so) sent through this wire on the unlock command. I added a 33k ohm resistor since that 0.4 voltage kept triggering both the down and up TR-7’s (see pic below). Without this resistor the lock command would not make the windows would roll up since the “down” TR-7 was active at the same time as the “up”.
With the ignition off, there is no power to the sunroof. One TR-7 was connected to the “Lock” Signal (white wire of drivers door lock actuator) to power the Sunroof when it senses one Lock Signal from either pressing the FOB lock or the switch on the drivers door 1X. Program #15 was used to sense one signal and then latch on for a programmed time (15sec). I chose twice as long as it takes to open/close the sunroof.
A second TR-7 was programmed with the same features but was used to sense the “Unlock” signal
Both the TR-7’s that feed the power to the sunroof do so through the same relay (so lock or unlock 1X powers the sunroof up for 15 seconds). Both TR-7’s outputs close the relay connecting 12V power to the sunroof wire in the “A” pillar.
The power feeding the sunroof can be accessed at the drivers side “A” pillar (see pic below). The blue wire only provides 12V with ignition on. I spliced the blue wire so that the relay that the TR-7’s turn on powers up the sunroof with the ignition off (second pic below).
Sunroof Open/Close: The panel that contains the sunroof switch can be accessed by removing the four torx screws holding the upper console in place.
The connector on the back of the switch shows 5 wires. The black is the ground. When the white and the black connect, the sunroof opens (Note: I used a blue wire to extend the white wire to the relay). When the gray and the black connect, the sunroof closes (Note: I used a white wire to extend the gray wire to the relay).
Ready for reassembly:
I used a relay to connect the white and black upon getting a signal from the “Down” TR-7 blue wire output. I used a second relay to connect the gray and black upon getting a signal from the “Up” TR-7 blue wire output. I mounted these relays near the overhead console.
Lock 1X :
Sunroof “Lock” TR7 Powers Sunroof supply relay for 15 seconds
Window “Up” TR7 Closes Relay with all WC1000’s close wire connecting them to “ground”
Window “Up” TR7 Closes Relay connecting sunroof gray to black wire
Unlock 1X :
Sunroof “Unlock” TR7 Powers Sunroof supply relay for 15 seconds
Window “Down” TR7 Closes Relay with all WC1000’s open wire connecting them to “ground”
Window “Down” TR7 Closes Relay connecting sunroof white to black wire
Oh yeah and pics of my new to me '08 CrewMax