DIY Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

  1. Welcome to Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forums General discussion forum for Toyota Trucks

    Welcome to Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forums - a website dedicated to all things Toyota Tundra.

    You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, Join Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forums today!
     
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 33
Like Tree2Likes

Thread: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

  1. #1
    Supercharged Member socal57chevy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Oceanside, Ca
    Posts
    2,791
    Liked
    118 times
    Images
    20
    Rep Power
    180316

    Default Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    I decided to take a few pics of my brake job and turn them into a DIY. I know there are a couple threads out there, but IIRC, they don't do a step by step with pics. Here goes.

    First, break the lug nuts loose. Lift and support the axle with jack stands. I leave the jack in place as an extra measure.
    Remove the wheels and attach a bleed container to the bleeder fitting. The container should have a few ounces of clean brake fluid in it.



    Loosen the bleeder and compress the caliper by wedging a flat blade screwdriver between the brake pad and the rotor, then pry the pad away from the rotor. Do not go between the pad and the caliper piston as you can tear the dust boot or damage the caliper piston.


    Remove the caliper from the caliper bracket and lay it on top of the axle. Do not let it hang by the brake hose.



    Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket.


    Remove the caliper bracket.



    Clean or replace the brake hardware that the brake pads fit into.



    Remove the disc brake rotor. If it is seized to the hub, use the threaded holes provided by threading a bolt through the hole to press the rotor from the hub.



  2. Remove Advertisements
    Toyota Tundra Forum
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Supercharged Member socal57chevy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Oceanside, Ca
    Posts
    2,791
    Liked
    118 times
    Images
    20
    Rep Power
    180316
    Thread Starter

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    With the rotor removed, inspect the parking brake shoes and clean or replace if necessary.


    Compare the new rotor to the old one to be sure they match. It's not uncommon to find brake rotors that are misboxed from the manufacturer. You will also need to transfer the rubber inspecion hole plug from your old rotor to the new one. If you have your old rotors turned/machined, remove it before doing so.


    Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner and dry it with a paper towel. Don't use a shop rag. The fibers melt to the pads and rotor, not to mention the detergent they are washed in. Paper towels or compressed air is best.



    Clean the hub with a wire brush and apply a light coat of anti-seize compound. Don't use too much. If it gets behind the rotor, it can warp it as the lug nuts are torqued.



    Install the new (or machined) rotor and run up one lug nut finger tight. This will hold the rotor to the hub while you install the pads and caliper later.
    Last edited by socal57chevy; 08-23-2011 at 10:11 AM.

  4. #3
    Supercharged Member socal57chevy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Oceanside, Ca
    Posts
    2,791
    Liked
    118 times
    Images
    20
    Rep Power
    180316
    Thread Starter

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Your new brake pads should be chamfered on the ends to prevent squeaks. If they are not chamfered, it's ok to add the chamfer with a bench grinder or file.



    Apply brake caliper lubricant to the back of the brake pad...NOT THE FRICTION SURFACE... to reduce vibration transfer to the caliper. This will reduce squeaks. Also apply lube to the ends of the pad where they slide in the caliper bracket.



    Apply caliper lube to the caliper bracket anywhere the brake pad will contact it. Also lube the guide pin holes where the caliper attaches to the bracket.



    Reinstall the caliper bracket.


    Insert the brake pads into the caliper bracket. Clean the caliper guide pin/bolts and lubricate them. Lubricate the caliper piston and install the caliper.






    Top off the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid. Remove the lug nut that was installed to hold the rotor in position, then reinstall the wheel. Repeat for the other side.



    Don't forget to pump the brakes to position the pads against the rotors before driving it. There is no reason to bleed the system. Using this method, there is virtually no way to draw air into the brake lines. As you compress the caliper, old fluid is pushed into your bleed container. As the caliper reaches full compression, tighten the bleed screw before removing the hose from the bleeder.

    Remember to ALWAYS torque the wheels to specification by hand. These trucks are prone to rotor warpage and overtightening the lug nuts is an easy way to warp them.
    Last edited by socal57chevy; 08-23-2011 at 12:11 PM.
    gottruck2 and Boonie like this.

  5. #4
    Supporter mendonsy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    4,980
    Liked
    318 times
    Images
    8
    Rep Power
    40838

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Great DIY (and good pictures too)! Thanks.
    07' SR5 DC 4x4, 5.7, TRD
    Toyota SS steps
    ARE MX cap
    AMP bed step

    DIY underseat storage
    Weathertech Floor Liners
    Weathertech Vent Visors
    Ultragauge EM
    Cooper Discoverer AT3's
    Techstream

    CBTMA member
    aip override 1.1.pdf
    Block Off Plate

  6. #5
    Rookie cwag911's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Denver,NC
    Posts
    12
    Liked
    0 times
    Rep Power
    0

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Nice write-up Socal. The only thing I do differently is use never-seize on everything but that's just my preference. I also use it on gaskets as well and have never had a leak, from water pumps to differentials.
    08 Limited (sold)
    08 Solara ragtop (sold)
    Lake Norman,NC
    Pleiku Vietnam 1971

  7. #6
    Supercharged Member socal57chevy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Oceanside, Ca
    Posts
    2,791
    Liked
    118 times
    Images
    20
    Rep Power
    180316
    Thread Starter

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Thanks, guys. I'm going to take a few pics of the bleed container I made out of the brake fluid bottle and explain why it's worth using one.
    I also want to add that you need to pump the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotor before driving the truck. Don't use full strokes to do this. Use slow short strokes. This way, you avoid pushing the master cylinder plunger into unused territory. It can ruin the master cylinder on older cars with corrosion in the bore. Better safe than sorry.

  8. #7
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    houston
    Posts
    1,095
    Liked
    33 times
    Rep Power
    6876

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    hi socal57chevy. Nice write up.
    why did you replaced the rear rotor for? I heard that front is prone to warping but rear almost never does??

  9. #8
    Supercharged Member socal57chevy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Oceanside, Ca
    Posts
    2,791
    Liked
    118 times
    Images
    20
    Rep Power
    180316
    Thread Starter

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Quote Originally Posted by randomwalk101 View Post
    hi socal57chevy. Nice write up.
    why did you replaced the rear rotor for? I heard that front is prone to warping but rear almost never does??
    Rears were real bad. I've read about others having rear disc problems, too. I did it to save down time more than anything, but also turning the rotors makes them thinner and more prone to warpage and unparallel surfaces. They were $40 each, so replacing them was easy on the pocket, too. Rotors and pads were $117 shipped from Rock Auto with the 5% TS discount.
    The fronts have been turned once and will be replaced when I do the front pads in a few months.

  10. #9
    Veteran Member tridacna's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    799
    Liked
    613 times
    Rep Power
    120004

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    I'm not a mechanic like you, but for lazy weekend guys like myself who doesn't want to have to ask his wife to pump brakes, this works great.




    Another great brake pad lubricant.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	brake_bleeder.jpg 
Views:	4707 
Size:	57.1 KB 
ID:	65077  

  11. #10
    Veteran Member JasonF1234's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Baton Rouge,La
    Posts
    630
    Liked
    3 times
    Images
    17
    Rep Power
    7091

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Nice write up!!
    Black Widow

    2/4 Mcgraughy's spindle drop
    Front grill, LED in rims
    LED taillight,LED 3rd Brakelight
    LED's Interior lights,22" Incubus rims
    LED Brakelights, TRD swaybar
    TRD Supercharger, TRD intake
    Priana Body Kit,VIS racing hood
    Doug thorley Long tube headers
    EBC Brakes and Rotors
    Custom 2 1/2 exhaust

  12. #11
    Junior Member TNriverjet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    269
    Liked
    7 times
    Images
    57
    Rep Power
    43081

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    On some other brake jobs I've done, I was able to force brake fluid back into the master cylinder when I compressed the caliper. This prevents opening a bleeder and the possibility of air getting in... Any reason this can't be done on the Tundra?
    TNRiverjet
    2007 Tundra TRD Crewmax LTD, Red Rock interior, Line-X, Undercover tonneau, Michelin 275/70/18 LTX MS2's, Tint, Bilstein 5100's front, OEM black alum tube steps, AIP mod. Selling... Argh...

  13. #12
    Supporter mendonsy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    4,980
    Liked
    318 times
    Images
    8
    Rep Power
    40838

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Quote Originally Posted by TNriverjet View Post
    On some other brake jobs I've done, I was able to force brake fluid back into the master cylinder when I compressed the caliper. This prevents opening a bleeder and the possibility of air getting in... Any reason this can't be done on the Tundra?
    The short answer is NO. It will work on the Tundra.
    The longer answer is that you are not supposed to do that because it can force contamination back into the ABS valves which could cause a failure.
    07' SR5 DC 4x4, 5.7, TRD
    Toyota SS steps
    ARE MX cap
    AMP bed step

    DIY underseat storage
    Weathertech Floor Liners
    Weathertech Vent Visors
    Ultragauge EM
    Cooper Discoverer AT3's
    Techstream

    CBTMA member
    aip override 1.1.pdf
    Block Off Plate

  14. #13
    Veteran Member tridacna's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    799
    Liked
    613 times
    Rep Power
    120004

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Yeah, what mendonsy said.
    If you ever look at the fluid after you bleed it, you will realize how dirty it is and why you shouldn't backfeed it.

  15. #14
    Veteran Member pfischer1213's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Joliet, IL
    Posts
    1,140
    Liked
    6 times
    Rep Power
    19426

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Great Write up!! Which pads and rotors did you go with?
    CBTMA Member, 2008 Tundra DC, SR 5, Salsa Red Pearl, 5.7, Running Boards, Bed Liner, TRD Package,White LED Lights in Interior, Alpine SPS -1752 Speakers, Extang Tonneau

  16. #15
    Supercharged Member socal57chevy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Oceanside, Ca
    Posts
    2,791
    Liked
    118 times
    Images
    20
    Rep Power
    180316
    Thread Starter

    Default Re: Rear Brake Pads + New Rotors

    Quote Originally Posted by pfischer1213 View Post
    Great Write up!! Which pads and rotors did you go with?
    I've used tons of different brand of brake parts over the years and, for the price, Centric is the best I have found. I use PosiQuiet pads, but not the extended wear version. They are more dense and, therefore, squeak prone. They don't require burnishing and are the most squeak free ceramic brake pads I have ever used. I have also never had to warranty a Centric rotor...even with their cheap line.

    Quote Originally Posted by mendonsy View Post
    The longer answer is that you are not supposed to do that because it can force contamination back into the ABS valves which could cause a failure.
    Exactly.

    I also wouldn't recommend using a vacuum bleeder on these trucks. I don't use vacuum bleeders at all anymore. A pressure bleeder on the master cylinder has far better results. I've seen cars have no pedal whatsoever after conventional bleed procedures. German cars and GM trucks are notorious for it. A pressure bleeder works every time and will correct the "no pedal" problem created by conventional bleeding. Many systems also require a scantool to actuate the ABS bleed procedure. Using my method, you remove the old fluid from the caliper without requiring a bleed afterward. I would not attempt a full bleed or fluid exchange at home without having a pressure bleeder and scantool with ABS capability handy.
    Last edited by socal57chevy; 08-24-2011 at 09:54 AM.

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •