The best I ever get is a little over 20 at 65 mph & no cruse control or trailer. My wife gets a lot more, she even got 18.9 mpg with the right rear break stuck on. It is the same for my civic, I get 32-36 mpg & she gets 36-42 mpg. I don't think there is a better way to increase mpg than the way we drive.
Something that hasn't been mentioned yet here is thinner weith oils. My old man tried going from a 10W-40 oil to a 5W-30 or 0W-30 in his V6 Hyundai, and got 2 MPG more.
Personally I haven't tried it yet cause my quoia has over 150K on it, and I prefer to run Mobil one synthetic in it to preserve motor longevity.
Worth a try??
I installed the K&N CAI and the Flowmaster Cat-back. Went from 16mpg to 18.7mpg highway, 13 to 15 city. Moderate throaty sound.
I'm just throwing it up as an idea but I'll work my way there. First thing is the CAI and maybe some exhaust but my fear is the sound and how much I'll like it.
I know that what I am about put on the site isn't about the 5.7V8.I have a 02 Tundra AC Limited 4X4,with the 4.7 V8,with a pop up camper about 800# on the truck.
On our last trip east back in Sept/Oct we drove a combination of interstates and small roads.I did manage to get 15.5 MPG average for the trip.I use the basic driving methods no jump starts the whole works.
I felt that I was OK with this mileage as the truck is easy to drive and has a lot of power and comfort.The truck I had used before the Tundra was a Ford Ranger 2wd V6,no power and not a comfortable ride.Mileage was only about 1.5 better.
Win win for me.
My 2 cents is I get around 19 mpg in an 07 2x sr5 when I'm in slow traffic, 70 and below. Traveling from 2000 ft elevation to 3000, then down to 800 and back daily. 75 + pushes too much wind and sucks gas. I removed the charcoal filter, k& n filter, mobile 1 synthetic and synthetic diff oil. With street tires at 40 psi. Adding new plugs soon. I even got 45 mpg popping on mileage display going down hill. If only.........
I forgot the name of my video but in the search try 2010 Tundra Crew Max gets 21 MPG's. GoodLuck!
Tundra 2010 5.7L gets 20.76 MPG's
YouTube title of my video
The one little trick that I learned that helps with city MPG is to use and abuse the S mode on the shifter to shift down to lower gears manually as you slow down. The benefits I've seen are three-fold: 1) since you are using engine braking to turn over the engine, you aren't burning gas to "idle" the engine as you slow down (there's a minimum RPM required to keep the engine turning over, and if you're just braking to a stop, you're having to burn gas to keep those RPMs up even if your foot is on the brake), 2) I find myself coasting up to lights a bit more as I prefer to use engine braking to slow the truck down, 3) less wear-and-tear on the brakes as the engine braking is doing a portion of the slowing. OK, so there's a fourth and a fifth benefit as well: I like how the truck sounds as it's revving up, knowing that I'm not burning as much gas in the process, and my stops are safer as I'm relying on two braking systems instead of just one.
Now there are some tricks to go along with this.. For one, I found that it's never worthwhile to downshift to "1" as this is simply too low a gear and it's not a smooth transition from 2nd. It's also worth mentioning that I try to never let the engine rev much above 3K while engine-braking by not shifting too low; no sense overworking the engine, though I suppose there's no harm since the engine management software will not let you select too low of a gear. Getting used to this "active" style of driving takes a bit of getting used to (I've certainly made the mistake of leaving the truck in 2nd pulling away from a traffic light more than once), but if you've ever driven a manual, it's not too far of a stretch.
Doing this little trick in the winter I can get ~16mpg in the city during the wintertime in my 4x4 with 400+ pounds of crud in the back (sand + canopy + weight distribution hitch). Unfortunately I can't seem to get out of the 17's while on the freeway, likely because of all of these mountains around here (sea level to 3K and back every weekend).
If you get 16MPG 'stock' and 20 MPG with the supercharger, your fuel costs are like this:
(25000 miles / 16MPG) * $3.50/gallon = $5468.75
(25000 miles / 20MPG) * $3.50/gallon = $4375.00
So, for every 25,000 miles you drive, the supercharger returns ROUGHLY $1,100 to you in reduced fuel cost. After 125,000 miles, it will have paid for itself.
Tonneau covers actually hurt your mileage. Air flowing over your truck creates a naturall area of high pressure in the bed that acts like a cover for the additional air flowing over. And it does with without adding weight to the truck. As soon as you put a cover on, you've added weight to the equation which actually makes the mileage go down. Go research it... there have been a LOT of research articles written on it.
One thing I'm noticing that is missing from this discussion is: "What grade/type of gas is being used". For instance, meburdick's calculation comparing stock mpg to sc mpg does not take into account that the sc has to use premium fuel (usually 20+ cents more per gallon than the 87 octane used in a stock configuration). The sc would still be cheaper annually, but it would take longer to recoup the cost of the sc unit. I usually burn 87 straight gas in my '10 DC 4x4 5.7L Flex Fuel and get around 12.4 mpg. Another consideration that affects my mpg is the tire/wheel configuration being used. In my case, that would be Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac's LT275/65/20 on 20x9 matte black MB TKO wheels. The mpg pays the piper, but me likie how it looks :-) So, what grade of fuel is everyone using while getting their numbers? What tire/wheel configurations, add-ons, and other goodies are you sporting that would affect your mpg (2x4 or 4x4)? This is what the public wants to know (at least I know I do).
But hey... Bring on the changes... my calculations were BEST CASE and showed that it would take 125,000 miles to get your money back. Looks like it will be quite a bit more than that in reality.