I'm planning on getting a '13 Tundra in a few weeks and curious on what everyone's been paying so far. They currently have a $2500 rebate for the DC and $3000 for the CM.
Please list engine, cab and trim in your replies.
Thanks!
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I'm planning on getting a '13 Tundra in a few weeks and curious on what everyone's been paying so far. They currently have a $2500 rebate for the DC and $3000 for the CM.
Please list engine, cab and trim in your replies.
Thanks!
I bought a black 2013 CrewMax Rock Warrior. The sticker was around 44K. I got it out the door for 32.1K with 0% for 60 months. I live in Northern California.
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Wow. Let me get this straight, OTD for 32,100, so your dealership lost about 7-8 k on the sale or did you have a trade in?
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TOY #1: 2013 Tundra CrewMax SR5 4x4
TOY #2: 1988 Mustang GT (The "SS" Destroyer)
TOY #3: TBD
2013 Crewmax SR5 5.7 with 20" alloy wheels, brushed stainless stepboards, sonar, all weather mats + doorsills, $37k out the door.
you can easily chew them down 6k off the sticker. i guarantee it actually 100%
2011 Rock Warrior 5.7 DC Blk ,TRD CAI, TRD cat back, TRD oil cap, TRD Radiator cap, Weather Techs, Craven Stubby Antenna, 5100's front and rear, 2012 TRD shifter, TRD Sway Bar
Got a Black 2013 Tundra Limited DC back in November with 20" wheels, sway bar, wheel locks and spare tire lock - MSRP - $45,420...got them down to $40,303...2005 F150 trade in for $9,000. Out the door for (taxes, etc) for $33,392...Paid cash...
I'm not sure how helpful engine, cab, and trim levels, are going to be in determining a good deal. I believe MSRP (manufacturer's SRP, not dealer), the out-the-door (OTD) price (BEFORE tax, tag, license, trade-in, down payment, etc.), and the amount of regional rebates and incentives (rebates can vary $500 or more from region to region), will be much more useful info. A Regular Cab (RC) 4x4 Work Truck with a $35k MSRP is gonna have pretty much the same profit margin (or markup) as a Double Cab (DC) SR5 4x2 that may also have a $35k MSRP. Also, Toyota has more of a markup (both literally and from a percentage perspective) on trucks with higher MSRP's trucks vs. trucks with lower MSRP's.
FWIW, everybody doesn't define OTD the same way. Also, it helps to have a really good BS detector--lol!!
Good luck!
13 CM RW sticker was 43,850. Paid 38,500. I'm sure I could have got a little better deal but it was love at first site lol. And they gave me trade in value of 34,500. For my 12 4runner ltd w 20k on the clock. I think I did ok
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I just ordered a 2013 RCSB 5.7L 4x4 w/ TRD off road package. Dealer told me I have to pay MSRP, $35k...
I hope thats not true when it gets here lol
2013 Tundra DC Rock Warrior 5.7L 4x4
315/70/17 BFG All-Terrains, Fox 2.5 RR front, Fox 2.0 RR rear, Total Chaos arms, ARB onboard air compressor, Line X premium... more to come...
Tell us what truck you want and we'll tell you waht you should pay.
I got a 2013 DoubleCab 4x4 SR5 TRD with Towing Package for $34k out the door. Ended up being about $1600 below dealer invoice. I used this link to get a quote below dealer cost:
http://www.geico.com/replacecar
The trick is have the dealer send you a dealer invoice and select all the options of a vehicle they have in stock.
2013 DoubleCab SR5 TRD 4x4
Line-X...just did it!
I really have no idea because 1) I ordered mine in October 2012 and it took ~3 months until I got it so it was never on the lot; 2) I never look at the sticker price. I go into each dealership (~4-5) with an excel spreadsheet that includes all the INVOICE pricing from Consumer Reports/KBB (Subtract all incentives) of the truck I want will all desired options, etc and tell each dealership I'll be back within ~2 weeks if they give me the lowest price. I make sure I get their "out-the-door" pricing in writing. I don't share prices between dealers and I'm willing to wait a few months if they have to order the exact truck I want. This works like a charm, cuts out BS, and I don't fall for the "well we can't order trucks, but lemme show you this truck on the lot" BS. I'm just very particular about what I want so I get what I want without having to sacrifice.If you see a truck on the lot you want or you are not willing to wait, then take a cell phone pic of the truck sticker pricing with all options, go home, and price it out using the invoice pricing available on the net and negotiate up from that invoice pricing, NOT down from sticker.
The best advise I can give is to just be straight forward. I am a sales manager at a dealership (not Toyota, but used to be) and the best way to get the best deal is to be straight up and honest. I wish I could say every dealer out there is honest but I can't. When buying a car you have to be able to judge character. If you feel you are being wronged or mistreated you have the option to go elsewhere. I deal with new clients all of the time that feel they need to visit every dealer and get the best quote to make a decision. The best thing to do is visit the dealer in which you plan on servicing your truck at. Dealers now a days see a lot of value in loyalty and positive feedback (ie: jd powers survey and social media outlets). As far as best price there will always be a dealer that beats another dealers quote by $100. The real question is what is your time worth. Always ask to see the actual invoice because the 3rd party site rarely account for regional charges such as TDA. I never have a problem taking a small deal over invoice it's when I get someone that says "KBB says your invoice is less." Whenever I buy the quickest and easiest way is to just offer $500 over invoice less any incentives. I have bought many cars through the same dealer and have a great relationship with everyone there. Hope this helps for some.
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