we're doing a 1.5" block in the rear on our kit and under heavy braking without doing anything to the rear shocks the rear end of the truck wanted to come around on us. Our truck only had about 2.5" of droop from ride height stock so taking up another 1.5" of that with our block didn't leave us with much droop. Under heavy braking the nose would dive and the rear would lift and lighten up the rear tires causing the sketchy handling under heavy braking. We addressed this with a simple rear shock bracket. So anyways, I can't speak for others kits and I'm not saying ours is better by anymeans. I'm just saying this is something to maybe be aware of if you're doing a rear block and not addressing the shock in any way. Just something to look out for. The simple bracket we did completely cured this affect during braking.
And yeah, we thought about dropping the LCA to install but seems like lining up those bolt holes while compressing the shock would be a pain... maybe it's not, we didn't try that, we just popped the top off like i said. 2 ways to skin a cat. LOL
Is the bracket something you bought? something you made? Is it available?
__________________ 5.7 DC 4x4,TRD off road, bucket seats, 6 disc, sat, TRD shifter, 2.5"front/1.5"rear lift, fender flares, chrome tube steps, tint, front rain guards, bed liner w/deck rail system, color matched grill surround, partialy debadged, black TRD decals, BFG 305/65/18's on TRD rims, Black headlight mod. (sorry, haven't changed pic's yet)
No, it's something we're making... I work for performance accessories (body lift on that truck) and for trailmaster suspension (3" front 1.5" rear on that truck). I'm waiting to approve one last part for the spacer stuff and we'll be in production. I don't think there's any plans to do the rear bracket as an accessory though.
I don't know though, those of you that have kits with a small block in the rear, go do a hard stop at like 60mph on the street and see if the rear feels stable? Does it want to try to walk out sideways at all on you? I think everyone else is only doing a 1" block in the back so the extra 1/2" we did may be just that little bit of difference that makes it not needed. We felt it wasn't a "safe feeling" so we addressed it.
Whoops, I didn't notice that was you in the body lift thread too... I'm gonna just paste my reply there over to this thread since it belongs here more anyways and edit that one to nothing so... Here...
Quote:
I can't say 100% anything would happen with your kit. We just noticed on ours when stock you can go put the brake peddle to the floor at 60 mph and not hold onto the steering wheel and the truck will stop straight. We put the 1.5" block in the rear and did the same thing and we had to steer the truck under the heavy braking to keep it going straight. Will anything happen??? Probably not... I don't see why anything would be damaged at all or anything. Could you loose control in an emergency situation? Probably not but what if? Go try it yourself on a backroad or something. Slam the brakes on and see if the truck feels stable. If it feels fine to you, don't stress... If the rear feels sketchy at all though, this is the fix we found...
Also, one other quick note, if you have a 1.5" block, did they supply a bracket or anything to address the ABS line that attaches just to the driver's side of center on the rear diff? We saw on our particular truck that with the 1.5" block at full droop that line was pulled REALLY TIGHT!!!
LOL, the other companies are probably reading my posts and looking at their trucks now but oh well, I'm only bring up some of these issues cause we addressed them cause we thought it was "right".
I mean, these are just spacer kits that I'm talking about, not many ways to do it, just looking at some of these pictures, I'm noticing the other companies aren't addressing some of the things we noticed in our development. Not every truck is the same though so you might not have any issues and heck the other companies might not have noticed issues cause they might not have had them on the truck they did the development on.
Oh and sorry, I know this is a body lift thread but the truck I posted above does have a spacer kit on it too so I'm addressing it here too...
Also, I'm not trying to badmouth the other companies at all, just noting some things we noticed/found in general...
This is my DC tundra with the toytech 3" lift.
This is exactly the look I wanted and I also like the look of
the stock TRD rims and tires.
Painted the toytech lift black so that it wasn't so visible.
Alignment after lift for sure, but does it matter if I have the new tires on?
I wouldn't think it matters, but want to be sure.
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Beer please! CBTMA (Member and Founding Father: Est. August 15, 2008)
Clicky>>> What The Heck is CBTMA
Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
How do you lose 3mpg with a bigger tire--it gives you a higher gear ratio..?
More power is needed to move bigger heavier tires. Also if the speedometer is not corrected to the new tire size that will make a difference in the miles on the truck and actual miles driven. The difference between the numbers will result in a lower computer calculated MPG. IF you hand calculate your MPG you can simply multiply your number by the stock tire diameter and divide by the new tire diameter. That will give you a corrected MPG. Let em know if that is confusing.
Beer please! CBTMA (Member and Founding Father: Est. August 15, 2008)
Clicky>>> What The Heck is CBTMA
Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
I just read all the posts on leveling kits and notice a lot of issues with reassembly of the suspension (post adding the kit) some guys stating that they even disconected the upper and or lower control arm. and still had to struggle with getting it all back together.
Some had issues with wheel alignment. I personally designed a leveling kit that adds 100% suspension travel and disconecting the upper or lower ball joint is not needed. Remember if you cant reinstall it easily what happens when the suspension unloads over a bump?
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SuspensionMaXX front leveling kit
Firestone rear airbags
20X9 Ultra Goliath wheels
Goodyear wroangler ATS
275x65R20(34")
CREW MAXX
alomst forgeot the I force 5.7
With the 1st gen Tundras, everybody warned about the "outside the coilpack" spacers because they would put stress on the balljoints at full extension. With the new Tundras, it seems like everybody has them so they can keep their ride quality. Is it not an issue now because of different engineering and angles? Or is everybody just getting these because they are cheaper and more readily available than coilovers. The only way i would use spacers again is if the outside coilpack ones won't affect the truck negatively like they do the 1st gen's. The ride with the inside coilpack ones sucks.
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2005 4wd TRD Doublecab- Silver Sky Metallic
2.0" SAW coilovers at 3" with rear 1" AAL, 285/75/16 BFG AT's on MT Classic II's, Pioneer Premier HU with XM, Rhinoliner, UWS aluminum truck box, Husky liners
Could someone list the type of 1" block kit for the rear. Looking to get some more rack back. Thanks Matt
I know both the Truxxx and Toytec sell them separate. You can find links to their website back on page one of this thread.
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Beer please! CBTMA (Member and Founding Father: Est. August 15, 2008)
Clicky>>> What The Heck is CBTMA
Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
Not sure about the ride though, not as sure footed after the lift. My '05 had replacement springs and it road great. I never had a spacer kit until this truck.
Can anyone describe the ride they get after the coil pac spacer was installed?
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Tom B.
2007 - DC TRD 4x4, Slate, 5.7 SR5, Toy-Tech 3", 285/75/18 Toyo's Open Country AT , Bedrug, Truxedo Tonneau, N-Fab Nerfs, Eclipse NAV, MB Quart, RFosgate, etc., Snow-Way, TRD Sway Bar
1971 Chevy Monte Carlo Street/Strip - 10.31 @ 130
1970 Chevelle 454 LS6 Power
1987 Olds 442 - Stock Racing Web Page