DIY: front t-case seal replacement - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-22-2007, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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DIY: front t-case seal replacement

Was going to let ya'll know that after 96000 miles, the front seal on my transfercase (to the front driveshaft) is leaking... The good thing is the TOYOYA part was only $10. I've done lots of work on my truck, but this is a first for me, so if anyone wants directions, I can certainly post a play by play...

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2007, 08:00 AM
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re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

yeah do the play by play with lots of pics! Mines not leaking but with 90,000 on the clock you start watching things and hearing noises...


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2007, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

Well my camera is in the truck, so no pictures today, but hopefully tues if the dealership can get the parts in... OH YES, the parts... so apperantly I have a transfercase that no one in town stocks seals for... I'm sure all the rest of you V8 auto guys have this seal, but my v6 manual has a larger OD seal... yea, that was nice to find out as my stuff is all apart.... D***.... but as soon as I get it all back together I'll give yall a nice write up for you DIY'ers out there... so far it's actually pretty easy... impact gun is a pre-requisite though...

2000 Tundra
4x4
6spd
v6

285 Nitto Terra Grapplers
Donahoe Racing Coilovers
Total Chaos UCA's
arb bumper
12000lb warn w/ amsteel line
optima batt, 130amp alternator, KC daylighters
Poly steering bushings
custom long travel swaybar links
HAM: KI4RXK google me!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007, 12:41 PM
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re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

Yes mine on 01 V8 is leaking a little also. I will replace it if it is easy enough.

Cna't wait for write up.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

Well, I thought I was going to do it tonight, but it will be tomorrow, probably during lunch. Well, I think I have the right seal now, at least it LOOKS the same, so hopefully it will be quick tomorrow... I promise to have lots of pictures and some part numbers! And it is easy to do yourself... till tomorrow !!!

2000 Tundra
4x4
6spd
v6

285 Nitto Terra Grapplers
Donahoe Racing Coilovers
Total Chaos UCA's
arb bumper
12000lb warn w/ amsteel line
optima batt, 130amp alternator, KC daylighters
Poly steering bushings
custom long travel swaybar links
HAM: KI4RXK google me!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2007, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

Here as promised is the how-to replace your transfer case output shaft seal (the one that goes to your drive-shaft). Note that this was performed on a 2000 v6 manual extended cab tundra.

To get ready to do this, you need some tools and parts.
The seal was P/N 90311-41012 and cost about $11.50 from the stealership.

Be very particular to actually see what part you are getting, because the first seal I got was the input transfercase seal (which goes between the tranny and the tcase.

The thing is, they will both fit the shaft, but the outer diameter is not the same. Note that both Advance and Auto Zone had this input tcase seal, so I really could only get the output seal from the dealership.

Next you need some tools. You will need a 14mm wrench to pull off the drive-shaft, a 12mm wrench is you decide to pull off the tcase skid plate, a 24mm socket (I think) to change the fluid, a 30 mm socket to pull off the tcase output nut (preferably impact), Impact wrench or V.long breaker bar, small punch, large hammer (blacksmiths), seal puller, possibly a two jaw puller, and a propane torch. Note that I didn't use all of these, but some of them would have helped.

First you need to pull off the drive-shaft. Here I used a combination of box end wrenches and special high torque wrenches that don't strip the nuts.

Here is also where I didn't use the propane torch, but it would have helped. The nuts are held on with Toyota thread locker, and you CAN bust them loose without too much trouble, but heat would make it a lot easier.

After pulling off the four nuts and washers, you can just set the shaft to one side, I didn't need to pull the entire thing out. (NOTE - to rotate the shaft and break the nuts, you will need to turn the 4wd on and off repeatedly)

After the shaft is moved to the side, you can see the 30 mm nut that is punched to keep it from rotating. First you need to use the punch and hammer/mallet to push the indentation back out. I used a round punch and it worked okay, my Chilton's has the guy using a flat punch, but it's really small so you may want to get it from a specialty store, Auto Zone and Advance didn't have a flat punch (only round). I really wasn't able to make this look nice, but I got it most of the way there.



Now, this is really a make or break part, as I could not get the nut off with just a two ft cheater bar. I was able to borrow a friend's impact and it came off without really any fuss. I didn't have to really hammer on it, it came off quickly, but it's just not something that a 2ft cheater bar will do.


After the nut is off, things get real easy. You can drain the t-case before hand. I didn't.. You pull the flange off, I started to use a puller, but very quickly it came loose and I just pulled it off... It really wasn't even worth putting it on, considering how easily it came off...

Take a good look at the flange and make sure it's not damaged. Note that there is an internal seal right behind the large nut. Check to make sure it's not damaged.


Now get out your seal puller and negotiate the seal out... It took almost no effort to get it out, and that's it your at the halfway point!!!

Now is a good time to look at the seal that you are pulling out... You will notice an outer dust flap, an outer sealing edge and an inner sealing edge... On mine, there was some grime in between the inner and outer sealing edges, and that caused the inner edge to wear away. This is what caused the leak, the seal was no longer small enough.

Get out your new seal and you will see that it should be 59 mm in outer diameter.

(Wrong seal)


With some grease inside the seal and outside, I was able to push the seal in BY HAND!!! Took no "Negotiating."

After this, clean the flange and slip it back over the splines of the tcase output. My nut was marked in blue marking paint and was easy to torque back to what it was originally (Chilton's calls for 87 ft-lbs, I'm sure you can do this, but as long as you punch it, it's not going anywhere). I re-punched the original tab back in.

Filled the T-case with some 75-W90 mobile 1 fully synthetic. Check for any major leaks. Reattach the drive-shaft to the flange. I didn't do this (cause I forgot), but apply some locking compound to the flange studs and tighten down the nuts... And you are done!

2000 Tundra
4x4
6spd
v6

285 Nitto Terra Grapplers
Donahoe Racing Coilovers
Total Chaos UCA's
arb bumper
12000lb warn w/ amsteel line
optima batt, 130amp alternator, KC daylighters
Poly steering bushings
custom long travel swaybar links
HAM: KI4RXK google me!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 01:38 PM
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re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

Great writeup! Of course I spoke too soon, after a mere 98,000 I now face this same procedure...off to the parts store!


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-13-2008, 07:43 AM
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re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

Thanks for the writeup! Mine just went out at about 58k and I replaced it myself with no problems at all!

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-13-2008, 08:18 PM
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Re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

Very nice write up!

I'll nominate you for the DIY contest!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-27-2009, 10:41 AM
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Re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

I was able to fix this seal leak using Auto-Rx:

Auto-Rx Cleans Internal Engine Transmission Motorcycle Power Steering Differential Diesels, Stop Leaky Seals, Oil Burning, Increase MPG

I put 3 ozs in the T-case and within 200 miles the leak stopped. I did a drain and refill after 1000 miles and it looks like a bone dry, brand new unit now. It also fixed a steering rack seal leak on my G35. It also saved my Tundra tranny from an early grave (hard/violent 2-3 shifts). I love this stuff. My Tundra has 159K miles and is almost 10 years old now. I think anyone experiencing seal leaks, tranny shifting problems, or engine oil consumption and sludging should give Auto-Rx a try first before doing extensive maintenance procedures. They may not be necessary.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 03:50 PM
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Re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

Thanks to Jwitz https://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...nt/#post778919

I bought 2 new seal rings ( big: 90311-41012 , small: 90312-23001 ) and a new nut ( 90179-22016 ) for 28,-€ and 1l 75-W90 for 17,-€
The nuts for oil are 24mm.
I will give some pics to this thread:

The nut is 14mm.
DSC_1482.jpg

In this position I could fix the driveshaft itself, so I could work:
DSC_1433.jpg

This nut is 30mm.
DSC_1485.jpg

DSC_1486.jpg

DSC_1489.jpg

DSC_1490.jpg

DSC_1435.jpg

DSC_1437.jpg

Maybe it is a good idea also to exchange the small seal, was easy:
DSC_1436.jpg

DSC_1493.jpg

Don't forget to make a bump in the big nut. I had used some blue Loctite too.
So I could hold on for screwing:
DSC_1438.jpg

87 Ft-lbs
DSC_1495.jpg

DSC_1497.jpg

54 Ft-lbs
DSC_1496.jpg

Working time was 1h cause it was hard to open the nuts.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2015, 08:08 PM
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Re: DIY: front t-case seal replacement

transfer case.jpg

Replacing my 2000 (V8) transmission with a 2004 transmission and before I connect the transfer case to it, I ordered some new seals for the t-case. I have a new input shaft seal, front & rear output shaft seals (large ones). I bought individual seals and later have seen a seal kit that may be available that also includes the smaller seals as well. Not sure if the small seals should also be replaced as well before I begin to disassemble and connect it to the donor transmission.. The pic shows there may have been a leak behind the front flange. And also, I am trying to clean it also to determine why it is black on the top near the plate....The reason for the wet look is I was trying to use a steam cleaner to remove the sandy crud off. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated...Thank you
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