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Discussion Starter #1
Just grouping some info together for the next person that encounters this.

I purchased a 02 SEG R5 w/ 206k from a local toyota dealers "as is" lot. Had a lot of items that needed attention.
But, in the end- as the price dropped. I took the gamble.

One of the items to take care of was - a single key. No FOB. And, the key was warn. REALLY warn. Pull out of the ignition
driving down the road w/ the engine running, warn.. Did not realize that until after the purchase. My bad. Also, at times- the key will not turn.
Catches and sticks. Takes some shakes and wiggles- but it eventually turns.

I later contacted the salesman. He said go to remotesremotes.com. FOB and trans blanks are pretty cheap. They are $$$ at the dealership.

Once I dialed in the site- got the item page. There was a footnote to contact them directly to confirm these will work w/ your vehicle. What?
I use the chat- and the CSR said in order to confirm the correct remote/key combo they need the following info:
- FFC ID or the Toyota Part #
Contact the Salesman-and he gets me the info. I pass it on t0 remotesremotes.com. Here is the item number:
- BBX-3BWIN-add-4C-x2
Which was 2 brand new FOBs and 2x master key blanks. $48, shipped.
I wanted the fobs more than anything because unlocking and locking w/ only a key- is no fun- and figured it would be no time until I lock the key in the car.

Got the FOB and keys faster than expected on standard shipping.
Followed the wacky series of events as outlines on www.programtheremote.com.
It requires one working master key. Pay attention. After my second run through the programming process- it worked. It requires a series of lock, unlock, key in, open the door... sequences. No additional things required.

A couple weeks later my wife borrows the SEQ for a drive to Olympic NP w/ her nieces and all hell breaks loose. Foolish me, forgets to indoctrinate her
on the nuances of the ignition system. Luckily, after a few instances she settles down and figures out the wiggle/waggles required to get the key to turn.

So- to maintain my own sanity I call the local mechanic I use and he gives me the number of his locksmith. Set up an appt. He came out yesterday.

Via one of the post here there is a great outline of what's needed to remove the key cylinder. I would add the link- but failed to find it again. It is simply this~
  • disc battery
  • disc hood release cable from handle left next to fuse cover (inside suv)
  • remove the 4? bolts holding the lower plastic cover below the steering column
  • slowly pop it off and let hang, there will be other electrical items still attached but is enough play
  • at the ignition cylinder there is a ring that contains a lighted and also the transponder antenna held on by a single philips, remove
  • put the key in and turn 2 clicks? (i'm not exactly sure of the correct position, sorry) then using a punch- push in the release at 6 o'clock on the underside.
  • if your key does not slide out like mine- you would then just pull the key
  • i had to get a thin flat head screwdriver and slip it between the ring of the cylinder so I could pull it out.
  • bingo cylinder out for locksmith to fix
Locksmith shows up. We are all set. Looks at the cylinder and key and says- wows. Its was amazing this even works. Easy fix. Replace the wafers- cut new keys and program.

Fixes the cylinder. Cuts a new blank. Cuts the 2 new masters. Connect the battery. Put the cylinder in. Connect the ring. Programs the keys. Turn the key.

Tries to start- but dies. Tries to start, but dies.

Poor guy- then- uses one of his keys- cuts programs. Same problem. He then wipes out all the keys in the cars system and reprograms. does this 2x.
takes about 45min. Same problem each time. We are baffled. We both start to google. He sees someones note about putting your foot on the gas at start up.
Vrooom!

So. Its not the keys. We thought it was the immobilizer kicking in. What do I know? let it run for while w/ foot on the gas- it seams to idle. Locksmith rolls.

I get in to move the SEQ out of the driveway. Same thing. Ugh. I search this site and find all issues on battery replacement. Bingo.

I tried just driving around - quite a challenge w/o an idle. Maybe it wasnt far enough, I dont know. Did not solve it for me.

In the end. Pulling the battery for 10 minutes and re-attaching. Then putting the key in on 2nd click- and waiting a minute did it. I also- as I read in the forum, put the
A/C on- it idled on it own. Took a drive.

All good.

Amen.
 

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So would you recommend that website for the FOB replacement? Lost mine years ago and Toyota says $250 to replace and reprogram.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So would you recommend that website for the FOB replacement? Lost mine years ago and Toyota says $250 to replace and reprogram.
Yes. In the end- the new keys worked fine once programmed by the locksmith. I programmed the FOB's myself via their directions provided using my original master key.
 

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Ok so I can program the key FOB but I need a locksmith to change the code in the car itself? Sounds like I won't get away with spending very little...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The key has a chip in it that will need to be programmed to your vehicle. A key guy can do it all or you could get one cut to match the existing- then.... you can follow a similar song and dance like the fob programming, yourself. You do need a working master key, however. You should be able to find that instruction via remotesremotes as well.
 

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The key has a chip in it that will need to be programmed to your vehicle. A key guy can do it all or you could get one cut to match the existing- then.... you can follow a similar song and dance like the fob programming, yourself. You do need a working master key, however. You should be able to find that instruction via remotesremotes as well.
Thanks! I do have a working master key and FOB, but I'd like to have a back up set for sure.
 

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The key has a chip in it that will need to be programmed to your vehicle. A key guy can do it all or you could get one cut to match the existing- then.... you can follow a similar song and dance like the fob programming, yourself. You do need a working master key, however. You should be able to find that instruction via remotesremotes as well.
Not always. Chipped keys are not that old. With the Tundra I think they started in 2005.You could tell the difference because chipped ones were not all metal, they have that black rubber piece on the head. fishEH has a 2004 Sequoia so it might not be chipped. I would confirm what year Sequoia started coming with chipped keys first.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hmm.. OK. Not sure of the history by year- but my 2002 SEQ has the black plastic/rubber head- and required programming.
 

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Thats why I said not always. Even the black plastic isnt always a for sure way to tell. I think there is usually a flashing red light on the dash for cars with immobilizer keys. Take the key out and wait a minute, if that light starts to flash its probably a chipped key. Again, I am not an expert, so I wont say what years did and did not have chipped keys. Here's a good read.

.

Also did a quick search on here and nothing I found said what year Sequoia did or didnt come with chipped keys. Seems like around 2005 for Tundra and that was standard on Canadian vehicles first.
 
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