[bantley19]

Hello, I need some insight on this please: the other day I was driving on the freeway and as I made the transition from one Frwy to the other the check "engine light, VSC Trac and VSC Off" came on all at the same time, I ran a diagnostic with the "blue driver" and got some codes, however before I go that route wanted to ask and see if anyone here has had that happened? and if so how did you addressed it? The codes I got from the blue driver were: P0051, C1203 & C1360 the 0051 makes reference to "(bank 2 sensor 1)heater current is low OR (bank 2) heater current is low; the 1203 to: has no definition and the 1360 refers to: "VSC master pressure sensor". Again, i wanted to see if anyone here can help before i start throwing money at it. thanks!!

 

[NeedsMoreTorque]

I've had intermittent problems with VSC/brake coming on but not throwing codes that I could read with Torque (Android app on my phone via ODB2 dongle plugged into trucks ODB2 port). Then I read that you can't get the ABS/brake codes via this method so I bought a cable on eBay/AliExpress (shipped from China so took about 6 weeks to come with COVID) in order to be able to run the Toyota software on a PC plugged in with this special cable to get the actual codes.

I just got the cable and the lights aren't on but soon I'll try to get the Toyota software working and see if I can communicate with the truck to get codes so next time I'm ready.

My problem might be different than yours as you have other codes you can read. Just mentioning it though as it wasn't clear that I couldn't read the ABS/traction codes via the normal methods until I read more.

This is the cable I bought:

250.4US $ 31% OFF|LAUNCH X431 CRP129E OBD2 Scanner Car Engine ABS SRS TCM Code Reader Diagnostic Tool Auto OBD EOBD EPB Oil SAS ETS TMPS Reset|Code Readers & Scan Tools| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

I got the "Mini VCI FT232RL" shipped from China. It was $10.xx when I got it -- looks like $15.21 right now but plenty of sellers I think. I think those other adapters are for older Toyotas so I skipped that.

 

[adamcox]

Oh that was it, great thank you so much!

 

[bantley19]

I've had intermittent problems with VSC/brake coming on but not throwing codes that I could read with Torque (Android app on my phone via ODB2 dongle plugged into trucks ODB2 port). Then I read that you can't get the ABS/brake codes via this method so I bought a cable on eBay/AliExpress (shipped from China so took about 6 weeks to come with COVID) in order to be able to run the Toyota software on a PC plugged in with this special cable to get the actual codes.

I just got the cable and the lights aren't on but soon I'll try to get the Toyota software working and see if I can communicate with the truck to get codes so next time I'm ready.

My problem might be different than yours as you have other codes you can read. Just mentioning it though as it wasn't clear that I couldn't read the ABS/traction codes via the normal methods until I read more.

This is the cable I bought:

250.4US $ 31% OFF|LAUNCH X431 CRP129E OBD2 Scanner Car Engine ABS SRS TCM Code Reader Diagnostic Tool Auto OBD EOBD EPB Oil SAS ETS TMPS Reset|Code Readers & Scan Tools| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

I got the "Mini VCI FT232RL" shipped from China. It was $10.xx when I got it -- looks like $15.21 right now but plenty of sellers I think. I think those other adapters are for older Toyotas so I skipped that.

Hello and thanks for your time. I finally got to it and it was something rather simple. After reading several writings from people that experienced the same dash lights warning, I concluded it was the oxygen sensor; based on the codes I actually got with the blue driver I replaced the bank 2 sensor 1 and that took care of the lights, they disappeared as soon as I was done doing that.

 

[hugegrand]

Here's another problem related to that: For me it turns out to be a separate yet related issue... One or both of The "Air fuel ratio sensors" (basically another bank of O2 sensors inside the engine) have gone bad and since the engine is very much electronically controlled, it's creating a cascading array of system errors. The only way to fix it is to remove the top end of the engine and do someother misc part replacements at the same time (suggested service). I've never had a TOYOTA this unreliable. I'm not sure if I'm gonna do it or scrap / sell it. I love the overall Truck, but a 4Runner / Land Cruiser it is not.

 

[hewitt-tech]

Here's another problem related to that: For me it turns out to be a separate yet related issue... One or both of The "Air fuel ratio sensors" (basically another bank of O2 sensors inside the engine) have gone bad and since the engine is very much electronically controlled, it's creating a cascading array of system errors. The only way to fix it is to remove the top end of the engine and do someother misc part replacements at the same time (suggested service). I've never had a TOYOTA this unreliable. I'm not sure if I'm gonna do it or scrap / sell it. I love the overall Truck, but a 4Runner / Land Cruiser it is not.

There are no 02 sensors IN the engine. Air/Fuel sensors are what your upstream 02 sensors are called, they are the first ones after your exhaust manifolds, usually in the downpipes. I usually replace the upstream O2 Sensors (A/F sensors) as a pair when there is a problem and you are in the 150K'ish plus mile range. Sometimes the 02 heater circuits can be a partial short causing problems for other sensors that share their power supply from the ECM. Most of the time if they short it will blow the 02 heater circuit fuse though. You should always address the circuit fault codes like the O2 first and see what that does for the rest.

 

[hugegrand]

Thank you... So if I understand you, you're saying there is no need to remove the top end of the engine in any way, and all the sensors are accessible outside the engine. If I recall correctly there are 2 upstream, and 2 downstream sensors BUT I was also told there were two more 'preliminary' A/F sensors in the engine under and around the upper manifold (that had to be removed) to access them in the engine; I understand you're saying I'm wrong, and that's cool... I'm currently looking for second opinions from other mechanics. I cannot do much on my own because I live in a city with no garage or space in general. My readers is indeed giving me O2 faults, etc as you mentioned. It seemed this mechanic was an honest fella, he might have simply not known better or who knows... Thank you again!

 

[hewitt-tech]

I think you may just be confusing the frame of reference about them being the "upper" ones around the manifold... the A/F sensors are the upper sensors near the exhaust manifold not the intake manifold.
All 4 of your O2 sensors are located on the exhaust. Your primary A/F O2 sensors are on the exhaust pipes between the exhaust manifolds and the catalytic converters and your rear O2 sensors are after the catalytic converters. I also like to call the two A/F O2 Sensors the upstream sensors and the two after the converters, the downstream sensors. This gives a better idea of which ones you are refering to in reference to the converters. The upstream air/fuel sensors tune the engine while the down streams are just to make sure your cats are working correctly.

 

[Trevor Ainsworth]

Had this same thing happen last week to my 2008 Sequoia with 147k miles.

*VSC Light, 4LO Light, Check Engine Light , Trac Control Light all came on at once while I was going 75 mph on the highway.

But... it wouldn’t shift shift past 4th gear.

It was the #4 solenoid. $1600 later I’m back on the road. Also had to replace most of the bolts and drain plug as there were pretty corroded and a whole heck of a lot of new fluid but it’s felling strong and the 4WD is as good as ever.

 

[hugegrand]

Had this same thing happen last week to my 2008 Sequoia with 147k miles.

*VSC Light, 4LO Light, Check Engine Light , Trac Control Light all came on at once while I was going 75 mph on the highway.

But... it wouldn’t shift shift past 4th gear.

It was the #4 solenoid. $1600 later I’m back on the road. Also had to replace most of the bolts and drain plug as there were pretty corroded and a whole heck of a lot of new fluid but it’s felling strong and the 4WD is as good as ever.

Thanks to all for chiming in. I'm not too well versed so I'm learning as I go along... My experience was very similar but no 4LO light. I was doing cruise control at around 70 when I experienced it too. I only loose power if I floor it. If I gradually build up it will still go, but looses power on the up hill when it's time for a little more gas. It drops power if I floor it and the tach rushes past 3500. The Trans seems to be operating fine as ling as the engine isn't getting gunned. 4LO, Shifting, Center Locker etc all appear to be functioning normal.