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I am looking to buy some parts from a guy with a 2004 4.7 and I have a 2003 4.7. I know the s/c will work (piggyback the same?), just wanted some advice on the others. It is...Includes a new in the box UniChip controller, the Supercharger (also includes the original TRD controller), new Flowtech ceramic coated headers, new stainless JBA 'Y' pipe, 3 month old Flowmaster cat-back exhaust, 3 month old K&N cold air intake system. Also, what is a good price for all this? Thanks for anything!
 

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That unit will work great with your truck.

I saw that post on craigslist, and I think that person is selling for great price.
Good Price for SC = 1800usd
Ceramic Coated Headers = 300
Unichip for SC = 500

and seller is including other things.

Anyways, I think that he is selling complete package for great price and it will work on your 2003 tundra v8

EDIT: all of the prices I've listed is for used items
 

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Thanks for the reply and the info. I had a feeling you would be the one to say something! Consider me in the sc club! Picked up everything. I think i'm going to send the charger off to get rebuilt so that I know what I have when it goes on. Considering PSE and Magnuson right now. I can't wait, been wanting this for a long time. Any tips, tricks, or ideas for a new guy? Not familiar with the whole charger set up. I am going with the CAI, full exhaust, unichip, and sc.:D
 

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Thanks for the reply and the info. I had a feeling you would be the one to say something! Consider me in the sc club! Picked up everything. I think i'm going to send the charger off to get rebuilt so that I know what I have when it goes on. Considering PSE and Magnuson right now. I can't wait, been wanting this for a long time. Any tips, tricks, or ideas for a new guy? Not familiar with the whole charger set up. I am going with the CAI, full exhaust, unichip, and sc.:D
Be sure you get new gaskets for the headers..... of course, right?

Before you send the supercharger off to Magnuson take the rear fuel dampener off to access the two 10.9 grade 6mm flange bolts holding the injectors down. Take the two off and get them flow tested at an injector servicing shop and have them check the ohms (resistance) on em' since its been sitting for awhile. Magnuson will take these off anyhow and put some sort of white teflon potting material to seal it back up (they did on mine) But get the injectors tested first and them put it back together before shipping the TRD supercharger assembly to them.

You want everything to be working properly? So while the stock injectors are off when you're installing the supercharger and after its rebuilt get them cleaned/flow tested and have the resistance checked as well before putting it all back together again. You're going supercharged now and you should know that these little items are at top operating performance on your truck. You want to eliminate all possible problems before they happen. So get them tested and a print out listing of how each injector is functioning in fuel flow and the resistance of each one.

Another thing to point out after getting it rebuilt , have new OEM intake gaskets instead of re-using the old ones as the instructions suggest. That's just stupid to re-use the old phenolic intake gasket. I did and ended up taking it back off as it was leaking.

All these items can be found at Rock Auto (BEST PRICES ANYWHERE) for much less than the dealership too. Stay away from the crooks unless you absolutely have too for parts you cannot find elsewhere.

You are gonna need 8 Denso IK22 iridium spark plugs at $8.64 from Rock Auto vs. $11.99 everywhere else at best. Take a look, you'll see. Just type the IK22 in the parts list at R A's search and it'll pull em up.

List of other important items: ( I don't know how many miles you have on yours but mine were worn out after almost 6 years and 85K miles later )

Sooo.. Get new fuel injector O-rings, grommets, and the insulators at the bottom of the injector(s) sealing the intake ports and keeping the injector stable and in place. These are sold at Rock Auto too.

Parts you're gonna have to get at the dealer are: new aluminum fuel line gaskets to seal the aluminum fuel lines back down. You are going to need 8 total: 2 for the passenger side banjo bolt: top/bottom, 3 for the drivers side for use with the double banjo bolt, and two for the rear fueling the 2: 750cc fuel injectors on the supercharger itself. You will also need 1 more for under main fuel line from the gas tank on and a special grooved one that goes on the fuel dampener securing that back together. Have them look these parts up at Toyota for you and you'll see it in the parts. Get what you need, Remember 8 of the round ones. And the other one for the fuel dampener. You cannot install the supercharger unless you have these. Buy a proper 14mm or 17mm crows foot ( Flare nut only crows foot like so: Craftsman 10 pc. Craftsman Metric Crowfoot Flare Nut Wrench Set ) at Sears ( forgot the exact size ) for tightening ALL the banjo bolts. This is needed for the double banjo bolt to get an accurate torque spec. There is no way to get a socket in there, believe it. And it helps a lot on the rear banjo bolt for the supercharger as well . And be sure you follow the instructions on putting the fuel lines together. You don't wanna bend any of the aluminum lines or have them touch or rub anything when torquing them to spec. That would be like a ticking time bomb. The butt-head who took the supercharger of mine off in a hurry and incorrectly bent these and I had to fix them all.

Also be sure to get a new O-Ring for the end of the coolant housing when you replace the stock one for the TRD supplied part, or it WILL leak. Get a tube of the black Toyota sealant for the coolant housing once its completely clean and free of debris. Get a new 160 degree thermostat too. Why risk using an old one? I didn't, why should you too if you're gonna rebuild the supercharger.

BTW, at the dealer they want $110 total for all 8 sets of the replacement rubber fuel injector items . I unfortunately paid up , and later found out Rock auto has them for $2.98 for each of the 3 pieces needed for each injector.

Since I was upgrading the headers too, I bought OEM replacement O2 sensors as well for 56 bucks at Rock Auto instead of $98 - $110 for the same Denso OEM replacements else where.

I don't know how often you change your fuel filter , but I suggest you change this out as well for a Fram fuel filter (Rock Auto too) Mine was clogged and made for hard starts, pinging (detonation) at high RPMs. All because the filter was clogged and restricting flow. Once replaced it runs good like it should.

Get a new belt too.

Biggest thing , be sure you get all the parts from the guy you're buying it from. There are a lot of items needed for installation. Otherwise you're gonna be like me and have to hunt for all these extra bolts/parts. Make sure this guy has all 3 fuel lines. Rear required trd fuel line, front TRD fuel line and the 9th and 10th injector TRD fuel line with the double banjo bolt that feeds it. Took me 3 months to find it all as well as having to do a Paypal dispute on the seller. BTW this is the only way you should pay this guy too in case you have any problems not getting parts when reading the instructions and taking inventory.

If you want a boost gauge/pod mount , Carson Toyota sells them, Talk to Collin for any other parts you may need. He should still be familiar with the 4.7L supercharger as I made him hunt for everything which took some time to find. They have the last of the un-used boost gauges in the entire country as they bought all that TRD had left at their warehouse.

Also sorry for the long post, but I feel everything above needs to be said helping you be ready for installation and saving you money as well on the same well built parts/gaskets via the Toyota Stealer ships , just having reasonable prices at Rock Auto. I wish I would have known , so passing the knowledge on.

If you need any help just PM' me again.
 

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Hahaaa,

more details...

This is what I did and you should too being the unit is used and/or if its missing any required items needed for proper installation. Like the tabs to mount the Uni chip computer onto the vent and velcro to hold the harness in place. And whole list of other things I cannot remember.

Send the entire Uni-chip unit off to Jack Friedman at Uni-chip in OR (Main Head-quarters) and have him check the main harness , the uni-chip computer, boost chip module for Map B and to get all new plugs, fittings, etc.

I had a complete service done for mine at $70 checking the Ohms resistance, all the wires and plug connections.

As well as getting new plugs for the superchargers' 9th and 10th injectors and the solenoid valve. This makes installation easier with the plugs off until they're through the firewall port where the rubber is. You'll use a wire hanger for this portion of install with the wires taped on to feed it through.

You'll get a new 8' long rubber vacuum line, the T -fitting that connects up the OEM fuel pressure regulator hose , the new provided vacuum hose , the 1/4" NPT brass fitting that's threaded onto the supercharger assembly and you'll cut the rubber hose and fit it all together for the required readings the computer HAS to receive in order to work properly. The other end of the hose of course is connected onto the boost module inside the glove box area. A rubber plug that goes in place of the original location for the fuel pressure regulator. For use with the stock cold air intake or aftermarket CAI.

This setup regulates the fuel line pressure(s) when the Uni - Chip retards timing, and re corrects timing advance for the supercharger to work reading the proper engine load and setting the proper fuel line pressures at the specific RPM intervals so it doesn't ping and detonate as well as knowing when and how to properly fire the 9th and 10th injectors under boost cooling the M90 rotors.

So when you get the Unichip , call Jack , get a work order # and ship all of it to him for a complete inspection and to recieve these parts if you don't have them. I didn't.
Either way send it to Uni-chip for inspection. Assurance is everything.

Have him look at the map(s) A/B that are on it.

Last. Did the guy you bought this from get a custom tune specific for the headers, CAI , and free flowing exhaust? Because the right map needs to be on there for all of these items, especially the aftermarket CAI I was told by Jack Friedman. As that was very hard in dyno tuning getting accurate readings from the MAF sensor on aftermarket Cold Air intakes.
 
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