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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short - well sort of.

My timing belt broke and I had it towed to a shop and had a timing belt put on it. I thought it was an interference engine, but the shop said they thought it wasn't. They tried to crank it after the new belt was installed and enough of it back together to crank it. It was missing badly.

I payed for 3/4 of a timing belt install and the towing bill and brought it home to my shop.

When the belt broke, it took out the valves on #1,3,5,7,and 6. (I assume the drivers side is 1,3,5,7 and the pas side is 2,4,6,8) So after fixing the heads (won't go into all the details), I needed to reinstall the heads and cams, then re-install the new timing belt.

Per the factory service manual, with the engine at the TDC + 50° mark (ATDC) .......when you install the LH head camshafts, you line up the "two dot marks".

When I do that, and then install the timing belt pulley on the end of the cam, it looks to be 180° out. If I spin the cams 180° and line up the "single dot marks", it appears the timing belt pulley for the LH cam is positioned correctly.

What is wierd, the manual says to install the LH cams using the 2-dot marks and the RH cams using the 1-dot marks. WTH?

It is my opinion, that the 1-dot marks lined up on both sets of cams is the only way to get the marks on the timing belt pulleys to line up with the proper marks on the aluminum cover deal (main cap?) that bolts down behind the pulley near the valve cover.

My crank pulley is lined up perfect with the marks on the belt per the directions I see on the net.

Also, it appears when I do have the LH cams lined up on the 1-dot marks, the cams appear to be sequenced correctly ..... i.e.... exhaust valves will be the first to open and then the intake valves behind that.

I am convinced I am right... LOL..... but the manual never addresses cam gear dots relative to the timing belt pulley timing marks......

I think I am taking two different parts of the manual and trying to equate the two together.... and it just doesn't work like that.

Searching the net, there are several videos and some excellent threads on timing belt changes, but I have struck out on head changes and then timiing belt install rolled into one.
 

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Long story short - well sort of.

My timing belt broke and I had it towed to a shop and had a timing belt put on it. I thought it was an interference engine, but the shop said they thought it wasn't. They tried to crank it after the new belt was installed and enough of it back together to crank it. It was missing badly.

I payed for 3/4 of a timing belt install and the towing bill and brought it home to my shop.

When the belt broke, it took out the valves on #1,3,5,7,and 6. (I assume the drivers side is 1,3,5,7 and the pas side is 2,4,6,8) So after fixing the heads (won't go into all the details), I needed to reinstall the heads and cams, then re-install the new timing belt.


When I do that, and then install the timing belt pulley on the end of the cam, it looks to be 180° out. If I spin the cams 180° and line up the "single dot marks", it appears the timing belt pulley for the LH cam is positioned correctly.

What is wierd, the manual says to install the LH cams using the 2-dot marks and the RH cams using the 1-dot marks. WTH?

It is my opinion, that the 1-dot marks lined up on both sets of cams is the only way to get the marks on the timing belt pulleys to line up with the proper marks on the aluminum cover deal (main cap?) that bolts down behind the pulley near the valve cover.

My crank pulley is lined up perfect with the marks on the belt per the directions I see on the net.

Also, it appears when I do have the LH cams lined up on the 1-dot marks, the cams appear to be sequenced correctly ..... i.e.... exhaust valves will be the first to open and then the intake valves behind that.

I am convinced I am right... LOL..... but the manual never addresses cam gear dots relative to the timing belt pulley timing marks......

I think I am taking two different parts of the manual and trying to equate the two together.... and it just doesn't work like that.

Searching the net, there are several videos and some excellent threads on timing belt changes, but I have struck out on head changes and then timiing belt install rolled into one.

Start at the crank with the belt. Timing belt crank mark should line up with the timing mark on the crank timing pulley. It should be around the 7 o'clock position. Install the timing belt spacer, belt guide and cover while keeping the belt on the mark. Install the crank pulley and get it to TDC without letting the belt move on the crank pulley. Install the cam pulleys by lining up the roll pins in the pulley face.
Rotate the cams so the cam pulley timing marks lint up with the "T" this is a resting spot between the cam lobes just for the belt installation, not the actual timing mark.

The cam timing marks are the lines next to the T that you will check after you get the belt on.

Loop the driver side of the timing belt over the idler and line it up with the timing mark on the pulley and rotate the came counterclockwise to take the slack out between the driver side cam and crank.

Feed the belt over to the passenger side and then rotate the cam until the mark on the belt lines up with the mark on the pulley.

All timing belt slack should now be pushed to the tensioner side of the engine between the passenger side idler and the crank. Pop the tensioner loose.



Rotate the crank 2 full rotations from TDC to TDC = 720 degrees.

Now here is where I think people get confused. The belt marks will no longer be aligned with the cam timing pulley marks but the cam pulley timing marks should now be lined up with the cam timing lines, not the "T". If you are at TDC and both cam pulleys line up to the timing lines you are good. You could test this again by rotating the engine another 418 times to get the belt timing marks to line up with the cam pulley mark and the timing mark line on the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Start at the crank with the belt. Timing belt crank mark should line up with the timing mark on the crank timing pulley. It should be around the 7 o'clock position. Install the timing belt spacer, belt guide and cover while keeping the belt on the mark. Install the crank pulley and get it to TDC without letting the belt move on the crank pulley. Install the cam pulleys by lining up the roll pins in the pulley face.
Rotate the cams so the cam pulley timing marks lint up with the "T" this is a resting spot between the cam lobes just for the belt installation, not the actual timing mark.

The cam timing marks are the lines next to the T that you will check after you get the belt on.

Loop the driver side of the timing belt over the idler and line it up with the timing mark on the pulley and rotate the came counterclockwise to take the slack out between the driver side cam and crank.

Feed the belt over to the passenger side and then rotate the cam until the mark on the belt lines up with the mark on the pulley.

All timing belt slack should now be pushed to the tensioner side of the engine between the passenger side idler and the crank. Pop the tensioner loose.



Rotate the crank 2 full rotations from TDC to TDC = 720 degrees.

Now here is where I think people get confused. The belt marks will no longer be aligned with the cam timing pulley marks but the cam pulley timing marks should now be lined up with the cam timing lines, not the "T". If you are at TDC and both cam pulleys line up to the timing lines you are good. You could test this again by rotating the engine another 418 times to get the belt timing marks to line up with the cam pulley mark and the timing mark line on the heads.
What I read suggests the "T" marks are what you use when you are at the ATDC (50°) mark? The straight line is for lining up when you are at 0°.....
 

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Start at the crank with the belt. Timing belt crank mark should line up with the timing mark on the crank timing pulley. It should be around the 7 o'clock position. Install the timing belt spacer, belt guide and cover while keeping the belt on the mark. Install the crank pulley and get it to TDC without letting the belt move on the crank pulley. Install the cam pulleys by lining up the roll pins in the pulley face.
Rotate the cams so the cam pulley timing marks lint up with the "T" this is a resting spot between the cam lobes just for the belt installation, not the actual timing mark.

The cam timing marks are the lines next to the T that you will check after you get the belt on.

Loop the driver side of the timing belt over the idler and line it up with the timing mark on the pulley and rotate the came counterclockwise to take the slack out between the driver side cam and crank.

Feed the belt over to the passenger side and then rotate the cam until the mark on the belt lines up with the mark on the pulley.

All timing belt slack should now be pushed to the tensioner side of the engine between the passenger side idler and the crank. Pop the tensioner loose.



Rotate the crank 2 full rotations from TDC to TDC = 720 degrees.

Now here is where I think people get confused. The belt marks will no longer be aligned with the cam timing pulley marks but the cam pulley timing marks should now be lined up with the cam timing lines, not the "T". If you are at TDC and both cam pulleys line up to the timing lines you are good. You could test this again by rotating the engine another 418 times to get the belt timing marks to line up with the cam pulley mark and the timing mark line on the heads.
Long story short - well sort of.

My timing belt broke and I had it towed to a shop and had a timing belt put on it. I thought it was an interference engine, but the shop said they thought it wasn't. They tried to crank it after the new belt was installed and enough of it back together to crank it. It was missing badly.

I payed for 3/4 of a timing belt install and the towing bill and brought it home to my shop.

When the belt broke, it took out the valves on #1,3,5,7,and 6. (I assume the drivers side is 1,3,5,7 and the pas side is 2,4,6,8) So after fixing the heads (won't go into all the details), I needed to reinstall the heads and cams, then re-install the new timing belt.

Per the factory service manual, with the engine at the TDC + 50° mark (ATDC) .......when you install the LH head camshafts, you line up the "two dot marks".

When I do that, and then install the timing belt pulley on the end of the cam, it looks to be 180° out. If I spin the cams 180° and line up the "single dot marks", it appears the timing belt pulley for the LH cam is positioned correctly.

What is wierd, the manual says to install the LH cams using the 2-dot marks and the RH cams using the 1-dot marks. WTH?

It is my opinion, that the 1-dot marks lined up on both sets of cams is the only way to get the marks on the timing belt pulleys to line up with the proper marks on the aluminum cover deal (main cap?) that bolts down behind the pulley near the valve cover.

My crank pulley is lined up perfect with the marks on the belt per the directions I see on the net.

Also, it appears when I do have the LH cams lined up on the 1-dot marks, the cams appear to be sequenced correctly ..... i.e.... exhaust valves will be the first to open and then the intake valves behind that.

I am convinced I am right... LOL..... but the manual never addresses cam gear dots relative to the timing belt pulley timing marks......

I think I am taking two different parts of the manual and trying to equate the two together.... and it just doesn't work like that.

Searching the net, there are several videos and some excellent threads on timing belt changes, but I have struck out on head changes and then timiing belt install rolled into one.
IM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM
I REPLACED THE HEAD GASKETS AND PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER UP TO THIS POINT AND MY LEFT SIDE CAMSHAFT LINED UP ON THE TWO DOTS PUT ME 180 OUT
QUESTION IS SETTING THE ONE DOT RH ONE DOT LH , DID IT WORK FOR YOU?
 
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