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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I've had my 2006 Tundra Double Cab Limited since October 09 and absolutley love it. But here recently in central Texas the weather has started getting very hot and I've noticed that my air conditioner is not blowing as cold as I think it should be. In the heat of the day it isVERY obvious when it blows cold and when it doesn't. In a 20 minute drive on the interstate it will cycle between blowing cold air and warm air about ten times. Changing the the setting to "recirculate" helps but does not alleviate the problem.

I bit the bullet and took it to my local mechanic who over the years has proven to be honest, reliable and inexpensive. He put the gauges on the AC system and kept it for the day. He told me by reading the gauges everything is running as it should and the refrigerant charge is where it should be. He put a thermometer in the vent and got a reading as low as 45 degrees. He took it for a drive in the mid day heat and he was able to "see" what I was talking about with the air coming out of the vents cycling between warm and cold.

He did a little investigation and told me that he discovered that there is a TSB out there for this year/model that calls for having the computer "flashed" by the dealer. This addresses the intermittant nature of the running of the air conditioner.

The mechanic did not charge me for his time or for using up one of his bays for the day.

My question to you guys is...have y'all heard of such a TSB? Do y'all know if the problem I am describing is common? I've been lurking on this site off and on since October and I have not seen a problem similar to this brought up or posted.

I'm appealing to you guys for whatever, insight, knowledge, opinion, or information you have to offer.

Before I head to the dealer I want to be fully armed with accurate information so I'm not played a fool by the service writer.

In advance, thanks for all of your help.
 

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There are only two possible causes, the heater valve is opening and passing hot water through the core or there is water
in the expansion valve causing it to freeze up at times, then as it warms up it goes back to working. It's possible that idling in
the shop it never showed up. I don't know if there are any computer related components involved so I can't comment on that
end of it.
 

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Read the fan clutch thread just posted. I doubt it is your problem but if it is fine on the highway and just blowing warm around
town it could be.
 

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Most TSB's are well known and i have never heard of this one, not saying that there was not one but the vent temp should have been lower than 45 at normal driving RPM's. Definetly sounds like system operation is definetly not operating as it is supposed to! i will look up that TSB i would like to read that one. I had issues with my AC when my 06 DC was brand new. It blew out a .50 cent o ring just as my 1992 Camry did and lost the system charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank y'all for your replies.

Hogwild...please let me know if you find an applicable TSB...thanks.

Shootist...considering the two possible scenarios you posted, what are my options? Purge the system to remove the water and refill? What about the heater valve? How would I go about troubleshooting and checking for the proper operation of that assembly?

Thank you!
Chuck
 

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Go to the parts store and buy a set of hose pincher pliers.
Pinch off the hose at the heater valve. Go drive it. Also in really hot weather if you tint your windows you will
see a huge difference in the amount of cooling. I know the big 4 door chevys in dark colors won't cool well in
the desert without tinting.

Lisle Corporation

As far as water in the system a service is the only way to cure it. Some one with a recycler willing to leave it on
your car pulling it down for several hours will dry it out. The hotter the weather the better. The whole purpose of
pulling a vacuum is to remove the moisture. Water boils at a very low temp. under a complete vacuum. Otherwise
we would just flush freon through to get the air out and call it good. If the gauges can be hooked up and routed up
under the hood to the windshield and drive around that way until it does it is the only way I know of to check. Electronic Digital
gauges would be nice but the industry is lagging I guess.
 

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The TSB is out their but TSB's have to be taken care of during normal warrenty time frame and if they were and still having the same issue Toyota should work with you as long as it happened during the warranty period or it's on your dime!!
ODI - Office of Defects Investigation
enter your infoand it should pull it up! or just ask your dealer, they have no reason to not tell you!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again for y'alls help.

Hogwild, I went to the ODI website and punched in my information and I got list of applicable TSB's. None addressed the air conditioning system though. I'm still going to call my dealer Monday and see what he can tell me. I may be outta luck but I don't mind footing the bill for "flashing" my ECU (or is it ECM?) that my mechanic says will fix the problem. Surely that will cost less then a new AC system

Shootist, you've hit on a pertinent point. My truck IS black and it has grey leather interior. I understand that vehicles such as mine may take longer to cool down. However, I really don't feel that my expectations for the AC system are out of line. If I can't get any useful information from the Dealer I'll go back to my mechanic and talk to him about some of the options you discussed. He's a reasonable fellow and I'm almost certain he'd be willing to try a few things.

Thank you both once again!
Chuck
 

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i live in arkansas and it can get very hot here too... ive also never thoght my ac blew as cold as it should but the guage shows good on the refig. my truck is salsa red though if you find something out please respond, it can be over 100 degrees here oh and the humidity uggh sometimes its a miserable drive to work
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just wanted to report back with an update...

First, I called the dealer Monday of this week and explained my problem, what my mechanic did and what he told me about the TSB. The service writer sounded a little surprised because according to him, in the 7 years he's been there, he's only had one 1st gen tundra in the shop for a bad compressor. He also said that he has never heard of an air conditioner related TSB on that year/model Tundra but he would look into it and call me back. He called a few hours later and told me he could not find one. He suggested that I bring the truck in for a full evacuation and recharge of the system which would run $49.99 plus the cost of refrigerant. I told him that I'd get back to him next week when I return from vacation.

I need to back up a little bit because since Monday the AC system has started working well. Monday and Tuesday were very hot days but Wednesday and today it's been cloudy/rainy and much cooler in central Texas so these past two days have not been ideal to test and evaluate the cooling of my system. But, Monday and Tuesday were good and hot and the AC worked well.

I only did two things over the weekend to help solve the problem. I'm not convinced either one "fixed" it...I'm leaning towards it just being luck or coincidence that the AC is working. Here's what I did, first I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. Second, while the AC was on and the fan was on high, I turned the temp selector dial all the way hot then all the way cold. I felt resistance and heard the "door" or vent close shut when I hit the cool side of the dial. Ever since then the AC seems to be working. It's not blowing snowballs or anything but it's not going through those cycles where it's blowing warm then cold.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my AC problems don't come back.
 

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Sticking doors or door cables are a known problem spot and not just on our trucks. If your door was stuck in the wrong position it would allow hot air to work against the ac. You might try looking at the cable under your hood in the middle of the firewall and make sure it is moving freely. Otherwise you might consider letting the dealer perform the procedure on your ac. My ac doesn't cool down as well as other vehicles I've had so I understand what you're saying.
 

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It was on the 2003 models? Maintenance, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins sorry, but i have heard of a group of folks that have complained about insufficient cooling on all different year models. My 06 DC has had 2 such cases where a 50 cent o ring has failed and system lost all of it's cooling! This same seal on my 1993 Camry did the same thing and i was not happy when my 06 DC did this when it was brand new and i am driving Thur west Texas in Aug. I went thru Dallas and it was 115 and the AC was blowing semi cool but nothing like it was supposed to! If you have a leak the only way to find it is to service system and add leak tech fluid and inspect system with a black light and some funky yellow glasses which allow you to see the leaking dye you installed. i just did this recently and had a bad o ring again and they gave me a break on the repair cost but it was not much! But if you live in the DSW you have no choice to have an operational AC that blows out the vent near 35 degrees!!
 

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Is your AC light blinking? Mine was and it turned out to be a loose ground bolt on top of the compressor. The AC would cycle on and off so one night I popped the hood and saw a spark in there. Did a little more investigation and found that the wiring harness is bolted on to the top of the compressor and grounded there. Since it was loose and vibrating around the AC would cycle on and off. Toyota service department gave me the bolt for free. Was harder than heck to get it in there (very tight space and impossible angle) but once I got it in there the AC worked perfectly - until some idiot with a flat head screwdriver murdered my condenser.
 

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OK....My A/C was giving me fits as it would run some days and other days the A/C light would blink after a few seconds, or minutes. After trying many things, I took the face off my dash control panel and wiggled the harness behind the A/C switch. My A/C worked fine again. So in my situation, there was a loose connection in the harness behind the control panel. Give it a shot. Good luck!!!!! Mine is a 02 Tundy:)
 

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No flashing light on mine. I can feel the air cycling between somewhat cool to freezing out of the vents. Also I hear a faint click behind the temperature control panel when it cycles.
 

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No flashing light on mine. I can feel the air cycling between somewhat cool to freezing out of the vents. Also I hear a faint click behind the temperature control panel when it cycles.
The click is probably the A/C clutch relay when the compressor turns on and off.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey Guys...

Just got back from vacation and wanted to report back. Although we didn't take my Tundra on vacay I have had the opportunity to drive it several times in the heat of the day since we've been back.

The AC seems to be working. Granted, it takes it significantly longer to cool down than my wife's 06 Pilot but it's not doing the warm/cool cycle thing anymore.

I'm chalking up (and it's nothing more than a slightly educated guess!) my original problem to a stuck cable or stuck heater vent door. That's my conclusion because the problem seemed to be "fixed" ever since I tinkered with the temperature selection dial...I turned it all the way hot then all the way closed and felt some resistance and heard the vent close.

When I can bribe one of my kids to help me I'm going to have them turn the dial while I'm under the hood observing the action of the cable and the mechanism that the cable operates. I want to make sure it's working properly. I also have some cable lube for my motorcycle that I'm considering using in this application.

BTW...my AC light was not blinking.

Also, if I may take this oppotunity to rant a bit...

What were the Toyo engineers thinking when they decided on the locations for the vents and the gear selector stalk? When my truck is in Drive, the handle of the gear selector is smack dab, right in the middle of the driver side center vent...thereby blocking the majority of the air flow coming from that vent!

I'm reminded of this engineering blunder (IMO) everytime I switch the truck from drive back to park and the back of the knob is either ice cold (summertime AC blowing) or scalding hot (wintertime heat blowing)!

Does this annoy anyone else or just me?
 

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Hey Guys...

Also, if I may take this oppotunity to rant a bit...

What were the Toyo engineers thinking when they decided on the locations for the vents and the gear selector stalk? When my truck is in Drive, the handle of the gear selector is smack dab, right in the middle of the driver side center vent...thereby blocking the majority of the air flow coming from that vent!

I'm reminded of this engineering blunder (IMO) everytime I switch the truck from drive back to park and the back of the knob is either ice cold (summertime AC blowing) or scalding hot (wintertime heat blowing)!

Does this annoy anyone else or just me?

You are not the first to raise this rant, nor will you be the last!
 

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Also, if I may take this oppotunity to rant a bit...

What were the Toyo engineers thinking when they decided on the locations for the vents and the gear selector stalk? When my truck is in Drive, the handle of the gear selector is smack dab, right in the middle of the driver side center vent...thereby blocking the majority of the air flow coming from that vent!

I'm reminded of this engineering blunder (IMO) everytime I switch the truck from drive back to park and the back of the knob is either ice cold (summertime AC blowing) or scalding hot (wintertime heat blowing)!

Does this annoy anyone else or just me?
Makes me wonder as well - especially when the AC cools the shifter stalk to the point where condensation forms and shorts out my overdrive.
 
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