So, I went back out and here is sounds after warm up. It is still there , but a bit quieter.

 

Check the valve assemblies on the back of the engine close to the firewall, mine started making that noise about 10 days before failure when codes showed up and the dash was a glow with warning lights, it's a spendy procedure to have it done at toyota 3K+. Many have opted for the bypass but I'm an OEM guy, so I opted for buying the entire system parts from Nucar ($897.26 with shipping) and had everything changed out along with the starter ($248.76 with $60 core/shipping) while it had access all for $900 in labor. Since this is the last vehicle I'll ever own at 70 yo, I won't have to do this again. Many have sworn by the bypass setup, it's a matter of preference and affordability.

 

@Gray Limited
Thanks for the information. I pretty handy with things, so I could easily get in there and do this myself and save some dollars in labor.
I went out earlier and put the Mechanic stethoscope on the air pump as it is visible from driver side front of the engine between Manifold and block.both while it was on startup and after it was warm. I didnt hear any kind of real grinding. I did the same on the valves on back of eninge as I can see what i believe is them.
They consistently sound like they are "running" , air rushing thru I guess.
Only issue is, I am not 100% sure what it shoudl sound like when they are functioning correctly. It is one of those things like "something just doesnt seem right" scenario.

I am waiting to hear back from Hewitt Tech as well.
Thank you though for your input and will look into the sites you mentioned as well.

Regards

 

Let us know what you found out so it adds to the knowledge base and good luck on your project.

 

Just looked up the parts in case anyone is wondering and I am sure they have been listed on many many many conversations

I found them at Nucar (MA Based Toyota) and Ourisman (VA based Toyota)

This is based on a 2006 Tundra DC V8 4.7L parts diagram. So absolutely double check Part numbers...

Air Pump - 17610-0C010 - $396.17
Main Switch Valve (Next To Air Pump Under Intake) - 25710-50022 - $178.69
Air Switch Assembly 2 (Two Small Valves Near Rear Of Intake) - 25720-50020(L) , 50011(R) - $89.56 each

Hope this helps anyone not wanting to do the bypass setup. Which I haven't completely rulled out as of yet.

 

You will also need 2 of intake manifold gaskets 117171-50030 $23.27 ea and air injection hose 17341-50180 $20.68

 

Just be aware there are 2 different part#s for the air pump so put your VIN# in for the correct one. Having reviewed my parts list, you will need the following as well: (2) 17376-50010 gasket, (4) 17377-50010 gasket and (2) 17171-50030 gasket

 

I have a spreadsheet running at the moment, was looking at additional parts such as the air hose's and gasket, which I actually have already. I ad done my valve cover gaskets last year and bought the mani and throttle body gasket for the truck, but did not do them at that time. But thank you for the alert on 2 different ones, will definitely plug in the VIN.

 

I have found parts prices vary widely between online dealers so be cautious about shipping charges as well. TPD charges more for shipping out of Oregon (I live in WA) than Nucar does out of MA and Toyota.oempartsonline.com sends their parts insured for a little bit more.