Toyota Tundra Forums banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 and was wondering if anyone has installed a 130 or 150 amp
alternator on the 2000-2001 Tundra, if so was it a direct bolt on and did you upgrade your wiring. Thanks for any reply
 

·
Forum Admin
Joined
·
8,277 Posts
Gorilla has, try search around for his thread on this subject.

From my understanding, the Tundra comes with a 130A and the Sequoia comes with a 150A. The two should be interchangable. As I said above, Gorilla has done it and he also has the part#'s if you want to go OEM with this.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply but mine came with the 70 amp and has the 6 awg wiring.
I did read his posts earlier but will look at them again to see if his is 2000-2001.

I've been reading so many posts I am get dizzy, Thanks again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,875 Posts
Amps are your friend, the more the merrier.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have the electric fan, bigger amp and radio, backup lights, head lights and fog
all are bigger than stock plus the unichip. I have a feeling I am right at the wall but maybe could get by with an 100 amp alternator but want to see what is the best way to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32,593 Posts
You might want to look for idle amps in addition to overall maximum amps. When you are idling in drive with most or all of those devices running, that is when the greatest chance of brown out (system voltage sag) can occur since the alternator is turning the slowest. Many performance alternators list idle current as well as maximum current. For your purposes, it might be an idea to make sure you have enough of both. :tu:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,875 Posts
This is where having a good battery pays off in addition to a higher amp alternator. When the alternator can't provide enough juice the battery picks up the slack. You know you have a problem when you have your lights on and stop only to see them dim down a bit. If you suspect that you have a problem then you should hook your truck up to a meter and see what is being produced at idle. A faulty voltage regulator can also cause the system to not charge properly however the days of having separate regulators seem to have gone away.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is the problem, If I let my truck sit for 7-8 days it likely won't start. If I drive it more often I don't have a problem. I checked for a parasitic
drain and have none to speak of, I checked the charging system and with most things on ( headlights, electric fan, a/c and radio) on I am getting a reading of 14.15. I had to jump it the other day and have since charged it with a long slow charge so now the battery reads 12.55. This is the second red top I've used. I am not really sharp when it comes to electric so I am starting to get in over my head.
My only thought now is I am using more juice than the alternator can replace, so I am slowly running the battery down. Maybe the 100 amp alternator would make the difference I don't know but I am getting tired of messing with it.





This is where having a good battery pays off in addition to a higher amp alternator. When the alternator can't provide enough juice the battery picks up the slack. You know you have a problem when you have your lights on and stop only to see them dim down a bit. If you suspect that you have a problem then you should hook your truck up to a meter and see what is being produced at idle. A faulty voltage regulator can also cause the system to not charge properly however the days of having separate regulators seem to have gone away.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,873 Posts
When I was pursuing this, everything pointed to a complete bolt-on swap without any modifications/changes.

Until I get a winch, I won't be upgrading to the 130, the 90 has sufficed so far. I have a yellow top Optima. Have a 400W amp and 4 55W lights connected. I have had no issues. Also let it sit for about 1 month while I was out of the country. Came back and it started up without any hesitation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
i was looking into doing this mod also, but i want to know what alternator i have right now. the number on mine reads 270600f020. does anyone have this same one or know what amps this one is?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,873 Posts
i was looking into doing this mod also, but i want to know what alternator i have right now. the number on mine reads 270600f020. does anyone have this same one or know what amps this one is?
That's the 100amp. The 130 amp ends with f040.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,875 Posts
It really sounds like you need to replace your battery first as your isn't holding the charge which could indicate a damaged cell.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Under most circumstances I would agree with you but this is my second Red Top plus the original battery in 7 years. I‘ve only got about 40,000 on it so I am not exactly doing a lot of starting with them. I realize the non use of them may have some effect there life.
I hate the idea of changing parts to see if that is the fix rather than knowing that is the fix.

You could be right and I may need to do that but if it is the battery I will stay away from Optima Red Top

I appreciate your suggestion.






It really sounds like you need to replace your battery first as your isn't holding the charge which could indicate a damaged cell.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Here is the problem, If I let my truck sit for 7-8 days it likely won't start. If I drive it more often I don't have a problem. I checked for a parasitic
drain and have none to speak of, I checked the charging system and with most things on ( headlights, electric fan, a/c and radio) on I am getting a reading of 14.15. I had to jump it the other day and have since charged it with a long slow charge so now the battery reads 12.55. This is the second red top I've used. I am not really sharp when it comes to electric so I am starting to get in over my head.
My only thought now is I am using more juice than the alternator can replace, so I am slowly running the battery down. Maybe the 100 amp alternator would make the difference I don't know but I am getting tired of messing with it.
If you got a reading of 14.15, then the alternator is doing just fine. You probably need a new battery. Full charge voltage on automotive systems can be anywhere from 13.7 to 14.3 volts normally. 14.5 should be the absolute maximum, or battery damage can occur. If you are not holding a charge over time, the alternator cannot help. That is battery or parasitic drain problems only.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I understand your point but is it possible

(1)that I am using more volts (while driving)from the battery than the alternator can replace therefore over time I am running down the battery?

(2)I just checked the battery and it has a reading of 12.10 and it is 25 degrees out. I just checked a chart and it says add .620 at 30 degrees and add .84 at 20 degrees,so that should be about right.

(3)What I am going to try is bring the battery in the house and keep checking it to see if it goes down the next few days.

(4)As for the parasitic drain it is showing .020 which I also took it to two places and they agree with me on that number.

If I am wrong on (1) and the battery goes down while in the house I will try another battery, which will be the forth since 2000, strange.

Do you see any flaw in my thinking.

Thanks for you reply

If you got a reading of 14.15, then the alternator is doing just fine. You probably need a new battery. Full charge voltage on automotive systems can be anywhere from 13.7 to 14.3 volts normally. 14.5 should be the absolute maximum, or battery damage can occur. If you are not holding a charge over time, the alternator cannot help. That is battery or parasitic drain problems only.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
483 Posts
Have you done a load test on that battery? A battery's voltage at rest can be deceptive. It can show "normal" voltage but have a bad cell and not perform under load.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Have you done a load test on that battery? A battery's voltage at rest can be deceptive. It can show "normal" voltage but have a bad cell and not perform under load.
Exactly, I just replaced a battery in my beater 91 Tercel (great car, won't die) with a new Interstate. Ran over to Iowa City and back one night (bout 100 mile round trip). The next morning car was dead again, wouldn't start without a jump. Put it on the trickle charger all day, the next morning, dead again. Lights and everything would work but wouldn't start.
Battery showed 12.7 volts until I hit it with the starter, then it dropped to 6 volts. This was a brand new battery. Swapped it out again, car started great and has every day since. Load test is the only way to get a true test of how your battery is performing.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top