Toyota Tundra Forums banner
21 - 33 of 33 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Back to where I started from, just had a load test done but they said battery was good but low and needed charging. I just charged it up day before yesterday and drove it for maybe an hour.
If anyone knows if the 130 amp alternator will fit the 2000, I will get one and try it.

Starting to feel like a Hamster running in a wheel.




Have you done a load test on that battery? A battery's voltage at rest can be deceptive. It can show "normal" voltage but have a bad cell and not perform under load.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,875 Posts
Why don't you ask your local toyota dealers parts department about it?
 

·
Mech. Engr. / Mechanic
Joined
·
824 Posts
When you test the alternator, you need to test the output.... not just volts, but amps. I've replaced many alternators that were putting out the correct voltage, but wouldn't produce the amps required to keep up with the demand. From what you are saying, you need to check your alternator, if it is putting out the correct voltage and AMPS... continue on the path to a larger alternator. I'd bet money that your usage is exceeding the amps your alternator is producing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
459 Posts
If this is the OEM first alternator you might want to test it first before jumping in to buy a new one. The wire for charging is not all that big(6AWG) if I recall correctly. I upgraded mine to have both the stock 6AWG and added a 4AWG wire. When you test you might find out that it is a bad voltage regulator...meaning the alternator sees that the battery is fully charged when it is not so it will put out less. My alternator got wet, poor choice of location on Toyota, and it went the way of the dodo bird. The best I have ever had was on a boat when the alternator was actually discharging, meaning that as the engine was on the batteries got weaker and weaker.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Just wanted to thank everyone who provided some thoughts and tried to be helpful.

I just ordered a 220 amp alternator and after the install and test for awhile I will post results which I believe will correct my problem.


Thanks to all again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,875 Posts
It would also be in your best interest to upgrade your battery cables to at least 4ga if not 2 ga to handle the increased amps.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Finally got everything done and seems to be fine. Put in the 210 Alt, Odyessey 1500 battery and Barbus (tip from Mostsleek). also put in 2ga wire and a 180amp fuse. No more excess wires going to power on battery. looks neat and clean and most importantly it starts all the time. Thanks to all who took the time to help.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,771 Posts
Finally got everything done and seems to be fine. Put in the 210 Alt, Odyessey 1500 battery and Barbus (tip from Mostsleek). also put in 2ga wire and a 180amp fuse. No more excess wires going to power on battery. looks neat and clean and most importantly it starts all the time. Thanks to all who took the time to help.
Who makes these Alternators? I might be needing one since I have: WARN 9.5XP winch, 1000 watt JBL AMP and 400/1600 watt 12" Subs, 2: 55w IPF Fog lights, 2: KC 130 watt lights, Plus all the stock components using all the juice.

I've been thinking of getting 2 of those Odyssey 1500DT (1050 CA/ 880 CCA) Batteries. 1 for starting the truck and a seperate one with the Odyssey Billet Tie-Down just for the winch and lights along with a Painless Wiring Dual Battery Kit mounted on the Passengers side Inner Fender. Then mounting the Control Box in the fender as well to avoid water/mud:devil:

I will have a lot of charging that will need to be done. I plan on adding at least 4-5 more Long Range lights mounted towards the bed/cab and a set of back up lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Here is the problem, If I let my truck sit for 7-8 days it likely won't start. If I drive it more often I don't have a problem. I checked for a parasitic
drain and have none to speak of, I checked the charging system and with most things on ( headlights, electric fan, a/c and radio) on I am getting a reading of 14.15. I had to jump it the other day and have since charged it with a long slow charge so now the battery reads 12.55. This is the second red top I've used. I am not really sharp when it comes to electric so I am starting to get in over my head.
My only thought now is I am using more juice than the alternator can replace, so I am slowly running the battery down. Maybe the 100 amp alternator would make the difference I don't know but I am getting tired of messing with it.
Putting in a larger alternator will not solve this problem. You either have a drain or a bad battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
change your battery
change your wiring to a 4guage or 0 guage.
and
upgrade the alternator.
that should fix it.

i also have a 1.5 capasitor and a 1800 kinetic battery, oem 150 amp alternator

i push all lights, plus oem driving light's
and
a set of piaa ion fog and 1600+rms of audio.
scan guage and many other items, lighted mirror's ,camra, interior lighting, to name a few.
with everything on and audio system cranked up, even when the bass hit's extremely hard , the lowest i have seen the volt's is 12.7, once the bass stop's the multi hitting it goes up to 13.5
most of the time, it say's at 13.7 with everything on.
during the day with no light's on, i'm showing 14 or 13.9

but i do not know about your year truck.
but i would assume a 4.7 is a 4.7 so a larger battery and higher output alternator
and all item's are the same.
but i'm not sure???
good luck,
let me know if i can further assist you.
i'll try my best.
gorilla
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
It is made by Alterstart, got that with a 2ga wire $499.00




Who makes these Alternators? I might be needing one since I have: WARN 9.5XP winch, 1000 watt JBL AMP and 400/1600 watt 12" Subs, 2: 55w IPF Fog lights, 2: KC 130 watt lights, Plus all the stock components using all the juice.

I've been thinking of getting 2 of those Odyssey 1500DT (1050 CA/ 880 CCA) Batteries. 1 for starting the truck and a seperate one with the Odyssey Billet Tie-Down just for the winch and lights along with a Painless Wiring Dual Battery Kit mounted on the Passengers side Inner Fender. Then mounting the Control Box in the fender as well to avoid water/mud:devil:

I will have a lot of charging that will need to be done. I plan on adding at least 4-5 more Long Range lights mounted towards the bed/cab and a set of back up lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have a 2000 and was wondering if anyone has installed a 130 or 150 amp
alternator on the 2000-2001 Tundra, if so was it a direct bolt on and did you upgrade your wiring. Thanks for any reply
Hi I went above & installed a 300a JS alternator. (Large stereo build) you can improve your voltage by doing what’s called a “big 3” 0 gauge wire from alt to battery (leave existing as well, they BOTH) fit run 0 gauge from frame to - on Battery, & a ground from alt casing to frame. The least amount of resistance your truck will not be starving for power depending on what you’re wanting the extra for. I deleted my battery & am running a 45ah cmax lithium battery for the truck & sound system both. My charging voltage is 14.2v @ idle & 15.2v-15.5v driving 2k rpms or so. If you need to “up your voltage to charge a little higher, at the bottom of your fuse box there’s wire running to your alternator. The White wire is your sensor wire. You can cut it & add a diode(s) (N47001) in between and get to the voltage you need. Hope this helps.
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Top