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I believe the 1320 system will outlast the life of your Tundra. Specially the existing exhaust header to cat will corrode and fail first due to cyclic loading and corrosion overtime. Even 304 will corrode overtime for the same cyclic loading and environmental conditions. 304SS is not immune to corrosion, but can retard potential corrosion. When I removed the stock exhaust, I already have corrosion from the existing catalytic carbon steel flanges. I live in South Florida and my Tundra is 5 years old. Overtime, because of dissimilar metals, there would be galvanic corrosion introduced. Salt laden environment is just harsh and need regular maintenance or flushing of salt crystals.
Above said, the guarantee concern is not significant. The cost of 1320 versus TRD Pro highly favors 1320. Just an added information, I luv the sound of 1320 which is probably similar to TRD Pro. Again, 1320 exhaust is Sweet!
Just additional input: Read up on comments on MBRP 5316409 and also viewed the install over You Tube. If you live in salty area, your first concern is potential corrosion. The material of construction is paramount. That said, 300 series (304 SS) versus 400 series (409 SS) is preferred. 304SS has higher nickel and chromium content while 409SS has much less. 409SS is a harder material due to the higher carbon content but more susceptible to corrosion. 304SS is non-magnetic while 409SS sticks to a magnet. Easy to tell between 304 and 409. Viewing the You Tube install of MBRP, there is difficulty in the fitment or geometry at install due to its construction (butt connection of tubes together). Probably requires more than one person to do install or fitment squarely.
Compared to 1320 with flange connections which make install a breeze and easily completed by one person. I believe the flange connections are superior than the flared tube butt connections, specially during maintenance or dis-assembly.
Sound wise, these exhaust systems are probably similar with mellow deep sounding and not annoying.
Price wise, all are competitive, excluding TRD Pro, Borla, Magnaflow, Corsa, etc... which is hitting $1K and higher.
Lifetime Guarantee: Is a factor and I wonder why 1320 due to its material construction and workmanship only provides 1 year? But as I mentioned earlier, it is not a concern to me primarily due its construction and easy install. The You Tube install of TRD Pro utilizes bungee cords in the installation process....thumbs up!
 

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Just additional input: Read up on comments on MBRP 5316409 and also viewed the install over You Tube. If you live in salty area, your first concern is potential corrosion. The material of construction is paramount. That said, 300 series (304 SS) versus 400 series (409 SS) is preferred. 304SS has higher nickel and chromium content while 409SS has much less. 409SS is a harder material due to the higher carbon content but more susceptible to corrosion. 304SS is non-magnetic while 409SS sticks to a magnet. Easy to tell between 304 and 409. Viewing the You Tube install of MBRP, there is difficulty in the fitment or geometry at install due to its construction (butt connection of tubes together). Probably requires more than one person to do install or fitment squarely.
Compared to 1320 with flange connections which make install a breeze and easily completed by one person. I believe the flange connections are superior than the flared tube butt connections, specially during maintenance or dis-assembly.
Sound wise, these exhaust systems are probably similar with mellow deep sounding and not annoying.
Price wise, all are competitive, excluding TRD Pro, Borla, Magnaflow, Corsa, etc... which is hitting $1K and higher.
Lifetime Guarantee: Is a factor and I wonder why 1320 due to its material construction and workmanship only provides 1 year? But as I mentioned earlier, it is not a concern to me primarily due its construction and easy install. The You Tube install of TRD Pro utilizes bungee cords in the installation process....thumbs up!
Hopefully, my inputs are not viewed or implied bias to 1320. I am just a retired engineer and has some knowledge and experience with materials and construction and appreciate quality works. I also luv my Tundra. As I did earlier, I viewed a bunch of You Tube and Google searches for the best exhaust system just like you. Information is out there.
 

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Like you I am not trying to be bias, I simply know MBRP because thats what I installed. I did it myself in the driveway in about an hour or so. Both systems should be the same amount of time to install, how you bolt it together, flange or butt style, shouldnt add any time at all. Just temp place everything where you want it to make sure it looks good them tighten.
If you ever had to remove it both styles of clamps would be difficult. Clamps that compress the pipes onto each other means separating the pipes again would be hard to do. The flange style is made of mild steel and what happens is that joint starts to rust to the bolts seize in there. Thats what the OEM system uses just after the cats and MBRP bolts to that section. I know over time that joint would be a bastard to remove but I didnt care because I never had any intentions of removing it. Drive on and enjoy the sound.
 

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Got you bro. Acknowledged...MBRP is good. There are many choices for Tundra exhaust and some are just too expensive. Also a correction to the above, the flanges on 1320 are also 304SS which simplify welding since the same material as the pipes. Only the connecting bolts and nuts are carbon steel which like you said will surely rust and potentially seize up too. The use of 304SS hardware is not preferred for the application. 304SS hardware are not strong enough and susceptible to galling of threads due to loading. All the above said, the Lifetime Guarantee is perhaps a moot point since these exhaust systems are robust and installed permanently in place. However, removal may be necessary to get to other components needing replacement or repair. Hopefully, the above information provides great input for others thinking of buying 1320 or MBRP 5316409 for Tundra.
 

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I was not aware the flanges on the 1320 are stainless too. Stupid me for assuming all exhaust comes with mild steel flanges. If it stands the test of time I would take it over the MBRP then simply because its 304 vs the MBRP 409. You can see a lot of piping in dual side exit and the 409 will show your standard surface rust in a year. It will still last forever but cosmetically it doesnt look good. If you plan on sticking around the site for the next few years update how the system holds up so others know how its a viable option.
 

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Got you bro. Acknowledged...MBRP is good. There are many choices for Tundra exhaust and some are just too expensive. Also a correction to the above, the flanges on 1320 are also 304SS which simplify welding since the same material as the pipes. Only the connecting bolts and nuts are carbon steel which like you said will surely rust and potentially seize up too. The use of 304SS hardware is not preferred for the application. 304SS hardware are not strong enough and susceptible to galling of threads due to loading. All the above said, the Lifetime Guarantee is perhaps a moot point since these exhaust systems are robust and installed permanently in place. However, removal may be necessary to get to other components needing replacement or repair. Hopefully, the above information provides great input for others thinking of buying 1320 or MBRP 5316409 for Tundra.
Got you bro. Acknowledged...MBRP is good. There are many choices for Tundra exhaust and some are just too expensive. Also a correction to the above, the flanges on 1320 are also 304SS which simplify welding since the same material as the pipes. Only the connecting bolts and nuts are carbon steel which like you said will surely rust and potentially seize up too. The use of 304SS hardware is not preferred for the application. 304SS hardware are not strong enough and susceptible to galling of threads due to loading. All the above said, the Lifetime Guarantee is perhaps a moot point since these exhaust systems are robust and installed permanently in place. However, removal may be necessary to get to other components needing replacement or repair. Hopefully, the above information provides great input for others thinking of buying 1320 or MBRP 5316409 for Tundra.
Got my MBRP on Friday, plan on installing it today.
Wish it wood of been a 304 SS but time will tell if my choice was wrong mat茅riel wise.
Sound wise they bolts sounded good on vid茅o, 1320 may be a little quieter but hopefully the MBRP won鈥檛 be to loud either ones i am in the truck riding.
 

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Pretty sure its going to put a smile on your face from ear to ear. Hard part is getting the 2 front bolts because they're probably in there pretty good due to rust and all the expansion and contraction with heat. Post back how you make out.
 

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MBRP Installed a week ago, the hardest part wish wasn't a very big issue we鈥檙e the 4 flange bolts wish I put the grinder to.
Installing was easy having a car lift in my garage.
The only issue was and still is, the collar don鈥檛 compress enough the joint so i add to put SS self taping metal screws on the tail pipe joint become the pipe did turn down and checking for leak after starting the truck turn out that every joint leaked.
So I left every ting like it was and after driving it for a couple 100 miles I decided to check it over and heaven the muffler add turn some...
Tried to retightened every one of the joints again but clamps where already tight.
I ended up installing double SS m茅tal screws at each joint. Oping that time will seal everything馃
Sound wise, it鈥檚 a big change, a bit louder then expected but getting use to it. Maybe its because I have a topper on my truck wish keep the sound close to the cabin?
Any ways I wanted more sound then original and I got it 馃槑
I wrote to TDot Performance about the leek issu and did not get an answer yet!
 

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Couple of things. Tighten the hell out of the clamps. Like to the point that you can barely move them anymore. They require way more torque than you can possibly realize. Another thing you can do is remove the spacer inside the clamp to get it to tighten more. Mine also leaked at start up for the first time and thats what I had to do. I thought for sure I was going to break the clamps I tightened them so much.
The clamps might need to be moved before tightening. Like a little closer to the end of the joint. I dont know that for sure but I did not have that much exposed joint on mine when I did it.
I really dont think you should have put those screws in there. They wont do anything to stop leaks at a band clamp. Hopefully they dont start to rattle.

Any questions or warranty concerns at all contact MPRP directly. They have great customer service and are quick to back up their products.
Post back how you make out.

 

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Couple of things. Tighten the hell out of the clamps. Like to the point that you can barely move them anymore. They require way more torque than you can possibly realize. Another thing you can do is remove the spacer inside the clamp to get it to tighten more. Mine also leaked at start up for the first time and thats what I had to do. I thought for sure I was going to break the clamps I tightened them so much.
The clamps might need to be moved before tightening. Like a little closer to the end of the joint. I dont know that for sure but I did not have that much exposed joint on mine when I did it.
I really dont think you should have put those screws in there. They wont do anything to stop leaks at a band clamp. Hopefully they dont start to rattle.

Any questions or warranty concerns at all contact MPRP directly. They have great customer service and are quick to back up their products.
Post back how you make out.

Thanks
 

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Your geometry is off. Just a suggestion. The leak is from the male and female pipe connection is not square. Need to dis-assemble the leaky joints and re-load the connections squarely. Do not over tighten the bolts since it will start to gall and create additional problem of seizing up. The geometry must be exacting on pipe butt connections. Use a file and round or smooth the edges of the male pipe for insertion into the female pipe. If the proper geometry can not be achieved, just let the rubber grommet/hanger complete install and take the load. Another solution is using a grinder with cutting wheel to cut a slit(s) on the female pipe to allow compression for clamp tightening.
I agree the use of self tapping screws has no function in suppressing leaks. Rather it could invalidate the guarantee since it is consider a mod and same with creating slits on female pipe connection. Good luck.
 

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Looking at your picture, perhaps moving the pipe clamp to overlap the edge of the female pipe. Doing it this way, it may allow more compression of the female pipe to create a tight mate to the male pipe? If this don't work, making slits should be effective.
 

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Looking at your picture, perhaps moving the pipe clamp to overlap the edge of the female pipe. Doing it this way, it may allow more compression of the female pipe to create a tight mate to the male pipe? If this don't work, making slits should be effective.
I already suggested moving the clamp. And the female pipe is cut, thats how it comes from MPRP. If you look at the picture Plasticman provided from 4 days ago you can see it.
 

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Your geometry is off. Just a suggestion. The leak is from the male and female pipe connection is not square. Need to dis-assemble the leaky joints and re-load the connections squarely. Do not over tighten the bolts since it will start to gall and create additional problem of seizing up. The geometry must be exacting on pipe butt connections. Use a file and round or smooth the edges of the male pipe for insertion into the female pipe. If the proper geometry can not be achieved, just let the rubber grommet/hanger complete install and take the load. Another solution is using a grinder with cutting wheel to cut a slit(s) on the female pipe to allow compression for clamp tightening.
I agree the use of self tapping screws has no function in suppressing leaks. Rather it could invalidate the guarantee since it is consider a mod and same with creating slits on female pipe connection. Good luck.
The male / female insert a least 2-1/4 inch so I would be surprise if the fitment wouldn鈥檛 be square and the pipe is already slit.
Moving the clamps foreword like suggested from and Shakespeare did help some but still does leak.
I will probably slit the the female part at a different spot on each joint and that should resolve my issue.
I know it mite invalid my garante but it will be safer it no leak.
I would like to thank you and Shakespeare for you help.
馃槑 Keep on trucking 馃憤
 

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This conversation string is really intended for Tundra (2016 Double Cab 6.5 bed) 1320 cat back exhaust. However, bonus information was provided for the use of alternative MBRP cat back exhaust. It appears that potential leakage could be encountered exiting from the butt connection(s).
For the price, the construction/workmanship and material of construction (all austenitic 304SS for corrosion protection) is far superior than MBRP. Just the amount of welds completed cost money in lieu of butt connections (male/female pipe union). 1320 can be easily dis-assembled due to the flange connections and allow access to other underside parts.
Sound-wise: The sound is mellow rumble and not loud, but provides a big boy toy growl.
TRD Pro comparison: Similar to TRD Pro, but way better in price and superior in the use of 304SS material of construction. Just use a magnet to check it out. 304SS is not magnetic, 409SS is ferritic stainless and magnetic.
Lifetime guarantee: Only one year, but not significant. 1320 is robust.
Installation: Easy install since geometry appears exacting.
Suggestion: For one-man install use bungy cords. These exhausts have weights. The bungy would help out as a third hand. Depending on the age of your Tundra, replace the existing 4 flange hex bolts (Toyota P/N 90080-10064) or 10M x 1.25 x 35mm. Again depending on the age of your Tundra and where you live, suggestion to use of decent impact tool to remove the corroded 10M bolts. There is not much meat on 10M bolts, you can easily round the hex head or worst by shearing the head off. The mating nut is welded to the flange. If shit happens, can just use a grinder with a cutting wheel to cut the welded nuts off, just xtra wok. There is no instruction that comes with 1320. Just recognize that there is a subtle bend on the pipe connection between the new 1320 mufflers and passenger side cat. I tried it and can be installed incorrectly by man handling it, however it will create a significant pre-load to the system. Watch You Tube on TRD Pro install on Tundra. I observed that some You Tube videos use a power wrench to remove the 10M bolts. Probably not frozen or rusted bolts. Don't waste your time and money for a power wrench. Rather get a decent cordless impact gun.
Conclusion: As I said earlier...this is a sweet cat back exhaust. Great info for the undecided.
 
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