Toyota Tundra Forums banner

1320 Performance Tundra Dual Exhaust

8K views 36 replies 6 participants last post by  tunderbolt 
#1 ·
Has anybody on here installed a 1320 Performance Tundra Dual Exhaust Kit 2x Muffler bolt on system TRD style V2?
Is it like the TRD pro exhaust?

 
#2 ·
Up to you but I wouldnt buy it. It says stainless but the warranty is only a year so its probably cheap junk and will rot out fairly quickly. Any good brand name carries a lifetime warranty. It doesnt even show what grade of stainless it is.
If you're going with side exit you should consider 304 stainless or its going to show surface rust in less than a year and look like crap. 409 will hold up just as well as 304, just know it will show surface rust just like your oem exhaust. Up to you but if I had to pick again I would probably go with BAM system from Dirty Deeds.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Jonesy
#3 ·
Up to you but I wouldnt buy it. It says stainless but the warranty is only a year so its probably cheap junk and will rot out fairly quickly. Any good brand name carries a lifetime warranty. It doesnt even show what grade of stainless it is.
If you're going with side exit you should consider 304 stainless or its going to show surface rust in less than a year and look like crap. 409 will hold up just as well as 304, just know it will show surface rust just like your oem exhaust. Up to you but if I had to pick again I would probably go with BAM system from Dirty Deeds.

Thanks for the reply, their ad says 304 stainless, I think the TRD Pro is 409 stainless. I have a system that the previous owner put on that is a basic flowmaster knock off and its rotting at the welds and I have already done a patch job to get me by. Im looking for a cat back system that sounds good and wont rot living here in MA. It would be nice to save a little from the $1200+ price tag of the TRD pro exhaust. came across this one 1320 in a search and was hoping someone else had some luck with it.
 
#4 ·
Yeah, I just read the ad again and totally missed the part where they said it was 304. Thats a hell of a good price for 304 duals. I agree, the TRD stuff is way overpriced and you can get just as good for less money.
From the pictures in their ad looks almost identical to what mine did, including muffler size so sound would be pretty similar. Nice deep throaty sound when you get on it but not stupid obnoxious all the time. Very small hint of drone around 1800 rpm's. It just seems odd they only give a 1 year warranty and you dont want to be in the same boat you are now with bad welds or splitting mufflers. My MBRP came with lifetime and so do most other reputable brands so just consider that. 1 year warranties are usually only on aluminized.
Totally up to you but I still think you should consider the Dirty Deeds. No, it wont look as good maybe but anyone on here that bought it has nothing but good things to say.
 
#7 ·
Yeah, I just read the ad again and totally missed the part where they said it was 304. Thats a hell of a good price for 304 duals. I agree, the TRD stuff is way overpriced and you can get just as good for less money.
From the pictures in their ad looks almost identical to what mine did, including muffler size so sound would be pretty similar. Nice deep throaty sound when you get on it but not stupid obnoxious all the time. Very small hint of drone around 1800 rpm's. It just seems odd they only give a 1 year warranty and you dont want to be in the same boat you are now with bad welds or splitting mufflers. My MBRP came with lifetime and so do most other reputable brands so just consider that. 1 year warranties are usually only on aluminized.
Totally up to you but I still think you should consider the Dirty Deeds. No, it wont look as good maybe but anyone on here that bought it has nothing but good things to say.
Yeah I would definitely like that lifetime warranty. How do you like the MBRP? Do you like it better than the TRD?
 
#5 ·
Has anybody on here installed a 1320 Performance Tundra Dual Exhaust Kit 2x Muffler bolt on system TRD style V2?
Is it like the TRD pro exhaust?

Has anybody on here installed a 1320 Performance Tundra Dual Exhaust Kit 2x Muffler bolt on system TRD style V2?
Is it like the TRD pro exhaust?

Have you looked into a Corsa system?
 
#8 ·
At the time I bought mine TRD was 409 stainless and was a single muffler. So it showed surface rust fast and sounded almost the same as stock. I didnt see the point of paying a shit load of money for basically dual exhaust that sounded the same as stock so I passed. New TRD looks identical to my MBRP as far as muffler size so I have to guess similar sound. Also a guess that any that looks to be same size cans would also sound similar.
Love the MBRP. Probably hear the same from most who like their exhaust. Nice deep throaty sound when you get on it but not obnoxious at cruising speeds.
If you are dead set on getting dual side exit anything I would highly recommend 304 just for the cosmetics. I just think it looks crappy if you can see a bunch of exhaust out the back and it looks all rusty.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Silveracer1320
#9 ·
After all of the research I've done over these past few years, this is the one I plan to purchase and install this coming summer. It has come highly recommended by several Tundra enthusiests I've spoken with in Northcentral Texas and on Instagram and by my own reading of many independent reports on line. The sound is wonderfully unique and their design & workmanship put into their manufacturing process in unreal. They really love what they do in surprising the hell out of all their new, lifetime and repeat customers. Look up Corsa-Sport #14577 304SS 3" Cat-Back Exhaust System with Dual Side Exhaust / CORSA Performance exhaust systems, mufflers, headers and air intakes.

Take care,
Curt
Hillsboro, Texas.
 
#11 ·
Just installed a 1320 Tundra Dual Exhaust (TRD Style). To sum it up...Sweet and I luv it. Excellent workmanship and welds. Material is all austenitic SS (300 series SS) for corrosion protection. Even the exhaust shield is SS in lieu of existing/stock aluminum. The one year guarantee is not a concern at all. The material and workmanship will provide the lifetime guarantee. The geometry or fitment is highly satisfactory and exacting. Based on comments on TRD exhaust (uses combination of 300SS and 400SS), 1320 is superior due to all 300SS construction and workmanship. The growl is just awesome and not annoying. It is also several hundreds cheaper than overpriced TRD. I am not surprise if pricing of 1320 goes competitive with TRD. Install of 1320 is similar to TRD on You Tube except of the added bolted joint connection between the muffler and exhaust tip. Another great comment about 1320 is that the flange connection (bolted) installed evenly flat (no gaps) to ensure no leaks. Again...this is a Sweet exhaust system.
 
#14 ·
I believe the 1320 system will outlast the life of your Tundra. Specially the existing exhaust header to cat will corrode and fail first due to cyclic loading and corrosion overtime. Even 304 will corrode overtime for the same cyclic loading and environmental conditions. 304SS is not immune to corrosion, but can retard potential corrosion. When I removed the stock exhaust, I already have corrosion from the existing catalytic carbon steel flanges. I live in South Florida and my Tundra is 5 years old. Overtime, because of dissimilar metals, there would be galvanic corrosion introduced. Salt laden environment is just harsh and need regular maintenance or flushing of salt crystals.
Above said, the guarantee concern is not significant. The cost of 1320 versus TRD Pro highly favors 1320. Just an added information, I luv the sound of 1320 which is probably similar to TRD Pro. Again, 1320 exhaust is Sweet!
 
#13 ·
I live in Ontario and deal with the exact same conditions as you when it comes to salty winter roads. I had my exhaust on for 8 years before I sold the truck and it still looked like brand new. I didnt have this system but any 304 stainless system should look the same. Keep in mind even the best systems only use mild steel for the joint flanges so those will look bad in just a few months, but because they are so thick, its nothing to worry about.
 
#15 ·
I live in Ontario and deal with the exact same conditions as you when it comes to salty winter roads. I had my exhaust on for 8 years before I sold the truck and it still looked like brand new. I didnt have this system but any 304 stainless system should look the same. Keep in mind even the best systems only use mild steel for the joint flanges so those will look bad in just a few months, but because they are so thick, its nothing to worry about.
[/QUOTE
I live in Ontario and deal with the exact same conditions as you when it comes to salty winter roads. I had my exhaust on for 8 years before I sold the truck and it still looked like brand new. I didnt have this system but any 304 stainless system should look the same. Keep in mind even the best systems only use mild steel for the joint flanges so those will look bad in just a few months, but because they are so thick, its nothing to worry about.
Ps: if I recall wright you add a MBRP cat back wich was my first choice. But out of stock for now. Was the sound annoying on highway and any drone?
I am looking for a deep V8 sound Wen I press on the pedal but mild for a delay driver!
Thank you
 
#16 ·
A very small hint of drone around 1800 rpm or so but nothing really bad. I had Magnaflow on my 05 and the drone on that in combo with an AFE cold air intake was brutal so I do know what bad drone is. The MBRP sounded just like it should, hint of throaty rumble at idle but nothing obnoxious, and also really good sound when you got on it.
If the mufflers are the same size on the 1320 system I would guess sound would be similar.
I still would be leery of an exhaust system that only gives a 1 year warranty but each to his own.
 
#17 ·
A very small hint of drone around 1800 rpm or so but nothing really bad. I had Magnaflow on my 05 and the drone on that in combo with an AFE cold air intake was brutal so I do know what bad drone is. The MBRP sounded just like it should, hint of throaty rumble at idle but nothing obnoxious, and also really good sound when you got on it.
If the mufflers are the same size on the 1320 system I would guess sound would be similar.
I still would be leery of an exhaust system that only gives a 1 year warranty but each to his own.
Yup 1 year warranty is not much I agree!
Thank You 👍
 
#19 ·
Nice work. Post back how you like it once you install it.
One caveat plasticman. I see the system you ordered is 409 stainless, not 304. Obviously you dont have a choice since I can see MBRP no longer sells the 304 version but just wanted to give you a heads up that you will see some mild surface rust. Dont worry, it will still outlast you, lol, just wanted you to be aware.
 
#23 ·
Like you I am not trying to be bias, I simply know MBRP because thats what I installed. I did it myself in the driveway in about an hour or so. Both systems should be the same amount of time to install, how you bolt it together, flange or butt style, shouldnt add any time at all. Just temp place everything where you want it to make sure it looks good them tighten.
If you ever had to remove it both styles of clamps would be difficult. Clamps that compress the pipes onto each other means separating the pipes again would be hard to do. The flange style is made of mild steel and what happens is that joint starts to rust to the bolts seize in there. Thats what the OEM system uses just after the cats and MBRP bolts to that section. I know over time that joint would be a bastard to remove but I didnt care because I never had any intentions of removing it. Drive on and enjoy the sound.
 
#24 ·
Got you bro. Acknowledged...MBRP is good. There are many choices for Tundra exhaust and some are just too expensive. Also a correction to the above, the flanges on 1320 are also 304SS which simplify welding since the same material as the pipes. Only the connecting bolts and nuts are carbon steel which like you said will surely rust and potentially seize up too. The use of 304SS hardware is not preferred for the application. 304SS hardware are not strong enough and susceptible to galling of threads due to loading. All the above said, the Lifetime Guarantee is perhaps a moot point since these exhaust systems are robust and installed permanently in place. However, removal may be necessary to get to other components needing replacement or repair. Hopefully, the above information provides great input for others thinking of buying 1320 or MBRP 5316409 for Tundra.
 
#26 ·
Got my MBRP on Friday, plan on installing it today.
Wish it wood of been a 304 SS but time will tell if my choice was wrong matériel wise.
Sound wise they bolts sounded good on vidéo, 1320 may be a little quieter but hopefully the MBRP won’t be to loud either ones i am in the truck riding.
 
#25 ·
I was not aware the flanges on the 1320 are stainless too. Stupid me for assuming all exhaust comes with mild steel flanges. If it stands the test of time I would take it over the MBRP then simply because its 304 vs the MBRP 409. You can see a lot of piping in dual side exit and the 409 will show your standard surface rust in a year. It will still last forever but cosmetically it doesnt look good. If you plan on sticking around the site for the next few years update how the system holds up so others know how its a viable option.
 
#27 ·
Pretty sure its going to put a smile on your face from ear to ear. Hard part is getting the 2 front bolts because they're probably in there pretty good due to rust and all the expansion and contraction with heat. Post back how you make out.
 
#29 ·
MBRP Installed a week ago, the hardest part wish wasn't a very big issue we’re the 4 flange bolts wish I put the grinder to.
Installing was easy having a car lift in my garage.
The only issue was and still is, the collar don’t compress enough the joint so i add to put SS self taping metal screws on the tail pipe joint become the pipe did turn down and checking for leak after starting the truck turn out that every joint leaked.
So I left every ting like it was and after driving it for a couple 100 miles I decided to check it over and heaven the muffler add turn some...
Tried to retightened every one of the joints again but clamps where already tight.
I ended up installing double SS métal screws at each joint. Oping that time will seal everything🧐
Sound wise, it’s a big change, a bit louder then expected but getting use to it. Maybe its because I have a topper on my truck wish keep the sound close to the cabin?
Any ways I wanted more sound then original and I got it 😎
I wrote to TDot Performance about the leek issu and did not get an answer yet!
 
#31 ·
Couple of things. Tighten the hell out of the clamps. Like to the point that you can barely move them anymore. They require way more torque than you can possibly realize. Another thing you can do is remove the spacer inside the clamp to get it to tighten more. Mine also leaked at start up for the first time and thats what I had to do. I thought for sure I was going to break the clamps I tightened them so much.
The clamps might need to be moved before tightening. Like a little closer to the end of the joint. I dont know that for sure but I did not have that much exposed joint on mine when I did it.
I really dont think you should have put those screws in there. They wont do anything to stop leaks at a band clamp. Hopefully they dont start to rattle.

Any questions or warranty concerns at all contact MPRP directly. They have great customer service and are quick to back up their products.
Post back how you make out.

 
#32 ·
Couple of things. Tighten the hell out of the clamps. Like to the point that you can barely move them anymore. They require way more torque than you can possibly realize. Another thing you can do is remove the spacer inside the clamp to get it to tighten more. Mine also leaked at start up for the first time and thats what I had to do. I thought for sure I was going to break the clamps I tightened them so much.
The clamps might need to be moved before tightening. Like a little closer to the end of the joint. I dont know that for sure but I did not have that much exposed joint on mine when I did it.
I really dont think you should have put those screws in there. They wont do anything to stop leaks at a band clamp. Hopefully they dont start to rattle.

Any questions or warranty concerns at all contact MPRP directly. They have great customer service and are quick to back up their products.
Post back how you make out.

Thanks
 
#33 ·
Your geometry is off. Just a suggestion. The leak is from the male and female pipe connection is not square. Need to dis-assemble the leaky joints and re-load the connections squarely. Do not over tighten the bolts since it will start to gall and create additional problem of seizing up. The geometry must be exacting on pipe butt connections. Use a file and round or smooth the edges of the male pipe for insertion into the female pipe. If the proper geometry can not be achieved, just let the rubber grommet/hanger complete install and take the load. Another solution is using a grinder with cutting wheel to cut a slit(s) on the female pipe to allow compression for clamp tightening.
I agree the use of self tapping screws has no function in suppressing leaks. Rather it could invalidate the guarantee since it is consider a mod and same with creating slits on female pipe connection. Good luck.
 
#36 ·
Your geometry is off. Just a suggestion. The leak is from the male and female pipe connection is not square. Need to dis-assemble the leaky joints and re-load the connections squarely. Do not over tighten the bolts since it will start to gall and create additional problem of seizing up. The geometry must be exacting on pipe butt connections. Use a file and round or smooth the edges of the male pipe for insertion into the female pipe. If the proper geometry can not be achieved, just let the rubber grommet/hanger complete install and take the load. Another solution is using a grinder with cutting wheel to cut a slit(s) on the female pipe to allow compression for clamp tightening.
I agree the use of self tapping screws has no function in suppressing leaks. Rather it could invalidate the guarantee since it is consider a mod and same with creating slits on female pipe connection. Good luck.
The male / female insert a least 2-1/4 inch so I would be surprise if the fitment wouldn’t be square and the pipe is already slit.
Moving the clamps foreword like suggested from and Shakespeare did help some but still does leak.
I will probably slit the the female part at a different spot on each joint and that should resolve my issue.
I know it mite invalid my garante but it will be safer it no leak.
I would like to thank you and Shakespeare for you help.
😎 Keep on trucking 👍
 
#35 ·
I already suggested moving the clamp. And the female pipe is cut, thats how it comes from MPRP. If you look at the picture Plasticman provided from 4 days ago you can see it.
 
#37 ·
This conversation string is really intended for Tundra (2016 Double Cab 6.5 bed) 1320 cat back exhaust. However, bonus information was provided for the use of alternative MBRP cat back exhaust. It appears that potential leakage could be encountered exiting from the butt connection(s).
For the price, the construction/workmanship and material of construction (all austenitic 304SS for corrosion protection) is far superior than MBRP. Just the amount of welds completed cost money in lieu of butt connections (male/female pipe union). 1320 can be easily dis-assembled due to the flange connections and allow access to other underside parts.
Sound-wise: The sound is mellow rumble and not loud, but provides a big boy toy growl.
TRD Pro comparison: Similar to TRD Pro, but way better in price and superior in the use of 304SS material of construction. Just use a magnet to check it out. 304SS is not magnetic, 409SS is ferritic stainless and magnetic.
Lifetime guarantee: Only one year, but not significant. 1320 is robust.
Installation: Easy install since geometry appears exacting.
Suggestion: For one-man install use bungy cords. These exhausts have weights. The bungy would help out as a third hand. Depending on the age of your Tundra, replace the existing 4 flange hex bolts (Toyota P/N 90080-10064) or 10M x 1.25 x 35mm. Again depending on the age of your Tundra and where you live, suggestion to use of decent impact tool to remove the corroded 10M bolts. There is not much meat on 10M bolts, you can easily round the hex head or worst by shearing the head off. The mating nut is welded to the flange. If shit happens, can just use a grinder with a cutting wheel to cut the welded nuts off, just xtra wok. There is no instruction that comes with 1320. Just recognize that there is a subtle bend on the pipe connection between the new 1320 mufflers and passenger side cat. I tried it and can be installed incorrectly by man handling it, however it will create a significant pre-load to the system. Watch You Tube on TRD Pro install on Tundra. I observed that some You Tube videos use a power wrench to remove the 10M bolts. Probably not frozen or rusted bolts. Don't waste your time and money for a power wrench. Rather get a decent cordless impact gun.
Conclusion: As I said earlier...this is a sweet cat back exhaust. Great info for the undecided.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top