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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
*EDIT* I found two pics online, i can't remember where i got them so i can't give credit, but THEY ARE NOT MY PHOTOS i just used them to get this set up right.... of course, i actually didn't end up remembering i had them when i did the job, so i hooked up the IG wire wrong because i was in a hurry.... but i can attest to the fact that hooking up the IG wire to the M location does not break anything, when you start the truck up it will just hold the battery voltage at about 11.7-11.9 volts, don't know if it wasn't charging at all though because the voltage wasn't dropping at all....and i know i have a battery that isn't the strongest right now, so i would expect it to draw down noticeably if it wasn't giving any charge at all...but anyways, here they are, the only two photos i can imagine needing especially if you have a manual or have done an alternator change before...*/EDIT*

So I got around to throwing the alternator I picked up for my 2002 Tundra access cab just today. First off, I didn't remember or have time to take photos, but it is really just like putting in an alternator, so it should be pretty straight forward.

The unit I picked up is a 27060-0F060 but I think that 27060-0F050 is also a 150 amp unit from a sequoia, not sure of any differences, tho I can't be totally sure the 050 will work but I am pretty dang sure it is going to work too.

I picked up a new brush and brush holder, just to ensure that my new alternator was going to work as good as possible. Part number for that is 2737058460 and this should work in either of the two alternator part numbers listed above.

To put the brushes in, remove the three nuts on the back of the alternator and pull off the back cover. You will then see a (usually brown) piece right in the middle that is held on by two Philips screws, one on either side of the centre shaft. Pull these screws. I kept my old brushes just in case I can't get a set and something goes wrong. The new brushes came with a pin installed on them that holds the brushes back so that you can just drop it in. If yours didn't have a pin, there is a small slot on the top of the holder that you can put a Bobby pin or something similar through. Use your finger to hold the brushes back as you insert this, and there is another slot at the other side that the pin will slide into....this will hold the brushes back and out of the way so you can drop the brush and holder right in. Leave the pin in until you screw it all down, then pull the pin out. I threw the pin into my old set of brushes just to have it there to make it easier if I ever need them again...they weren't all too bad anyways but I figured with the amount of involvement it takes to pull the alternator I might as well be sure. put the back cover back on and put the three nuts on and you are good.

Now, the only change you need to make is that the Sequoia uses a 4 pin square connector and the tundra uses a flat three pin. The fourth pin on the Sequoia is not used (labelled M) so we don't need to add any wires or anything. Basically cut the connector off your truck and leave maybe two inches of wire on the connector so you can splice it back if you ever want (why you would I don't know but hey) to put it back on.

The part number for the connector is 9098011964. You will also maybe want to get three repair pigtails (part number 8299812440) as they have terminals precrimped on to the wires and slide right on. What I did is went to the junkyard and found any Toyota and snipped some wires with connectors. The alternator and the windshield wipers motor both use the same terminal in the connector and have the rubber boot that goes in behind the terminal to seal everything. In fact most connectors in the vehicle use the same terminal, at least most of the ones that I checked and that were low current, or at least somewhat low like less than 15 amps. I then carefully broke the connector apart without damaging the terminal and then I reused the wire with the terminal still on it. Look on the side of both alternator and you will see a label showing what pins are where. On the three pin it just has L, IG, S, and the four pin also had M which we will not use. Just splice the wires onto your existing wires then insert them into the correct location on the connector. Remember that the diagram on the alternator is of the connector that is on the alternator itself, when looking down at it from the side you plug into. When I did it I mixed up the IG and the M locations, so there was nothing gong to IG and M had the IG write. When I started it up nothing broke but the voltage was only at 11.7-11.9 volts. Took it apart and fixed it and everything works fine.

To pull the alternator out you first need to pull the power steering pump to the side, don't remove the hoses just pull the bolts and the stud and move it aside. 14mm for the bolts and the stud uses a star type of socket which I did not have. My 6mm six point worked on it bit I had to be careful and couldn't tighten it down crazy tight. I used hardcore super awesome penetrating oil to remove it and lock tight when I installed it again. To get access to these bolts and nuts just stick the socket through the holes in the pump's pulley. The alternator itself uses one 14mm bolt and one nut. You have to maneuver it out but it comes up through the top. Install is reverse of removal.

Other thing I did was I put in bigger wires. I used 2/0 because I got a great deal on it. For my truck what I did was I put one big wire from the b+ stud on the alternator straight to the battery positive post and then another wire from the grounding stud on the alternator to the negative battery post. I then put a bigger wire from the negative post to the fender. Should probably also put a bigger wire from the engine to the chassis but o figured that my way woods be sufficient for what I am doing. If you are connecting higher drain accessories I would either hook them up right to the battery post fir the positive side or I would install a power distribution block and use that, as we haven't changed out the wire gong to the fuse box. It also is a good idea to put a large (175 amps or bigger) fuse on the new wire from the alternator to the battery, though I did not do this as Toyota did not have a fuse on that wire, and I'm just not concerned.

As I said no photos sorry, I can maybe try to take a couple when the snow and crappy weather stops but I doubt I can see much without taking things off and I don't feel like doing that.

I went from having my voltage at idle drop to 12.0 volts when I turned on my four 100 watt lightforce Stryker lights, with my 100 watt bulbs in my stock fog locations, and the headlights on, and the heater on full, to now holding at 12.9 to 13 volts with the above stuff on AND the wipers on high speed .... this is woke I am in drive with my foot on the brake so the idle is even lower than the first example which was in park and no foot on the brake!

Yes a high output unit from dc power engineering would be best but I just couldn't afford it yet so I did this as a stopgap measure until I could afford theirs and put a winch and winch bumper on.

Also the part number for the repair pigtails is 8299812440 in case anyone needs it...you would order three for this as it is only one pigtail in that part number.

Any questions please feel free to ask. Also the third mounting hole on the bigger output alternator is simply not used, and the mounting hole and ear DOTS NOT get in the way of anything, so you know. This was what worried be ghee moat but it clears a bolt by a good 3/32" or so....I assume on the Sequoia there is either less space or three is done kind of washer ore something that allows this bolt to go through the alternator too, buy the opinion from Kyle at DC Power was that the middle hole could be Judy left empty without issue.

Part numbers:

Repair pigtails: 8299812440
4 pin Sequoia connector: 9098011964.
Brush and brush holder: 2737058460
150 amp alternator from Sequoia: 27060-0F060 ( 27060-0F050 may work also as it is definitely a 150 amp alternator from a sequoia, from what I have found)

Also the 130 amp alternator should work too but if you are doing all of this already why not put in the biggest one you can?

Hope this helps someone out!



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Has this been done lots before or something? I figured there might be more interest/questions on this.... unless no one likes a picture-less thread!? I will try to take some pics or at least find some if someone needs then...

If this has been done before is there a thread on this where can I find it?

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I think that the dc uses the same plug as the sequoia as Gorilla just did a plug and play with his upgraded alts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I talked to Kyle and he said that if I ordered a high output unit fir my tundra that it would plug right in without having to change the connector out (this was before I did the swap)... not sure about what the deal is with gorilla but it sounded to me like he mucked around with his truck a fair bit before putting the dc unit in....
 
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