Well i guess nobody is really interested in this idea. It suprises me because I figured there would be more people out there looking to have some decent bass in their truck without spend alot of cash and loosing storage space. Either way i think ive come up with the perfect, low budget bass upgrade.

1. Rear speakers are pretty much useless. They dont do alot for sound quality and they are pointed in a bad direction.

2. Bass isnt directional which is why subwoofers can be behind/under seat..etc. This makes the mounting position in the rear door perfect to hold subwoofers. The only problem is that the number of companies that makes good 6.5" subwoofers is limited, especially those that will work in infinite baffle configurations and be less than 4" deep.

3. After researching almost every speaker option I came up with the 2 that are the most feasible. The Elemental Designs 7kv.2/eu-700. This pro's are it is said to work great in Infinite baffle and can handle upwards of 150rms watts. It is a quality speaker, can be either single or dual voice coil and only has a mounting depth of 3.5". The cons are that the mounting flange wont bolt right up, they are heavyand they are worth $50-$65 per speaker. This brings me to my next option. The speaker is the tang band w6-1139si
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w6-1139si.htm
The speaker is a no-frills purpose built subwoofer. The pro's are that is $30 per speaker from partsexpress.com, the flange bolts right up and it is said to outperform the 7kv.2. The cons are it cant handle as much rms wattage as the kv7.2, isnt as great in infinite baffle and has a 4" mounting depth which is very close to the max for the rear door and may require a slight spacer.

4. With any IB subwoofer in a door sound deadening is a must, If anybody was ambitious they could probably built some kind of enclosure the increase the performance of both woofers. Depending on the budget either one will be a huge improvement on a stock system.

5. Cost Comparison
(All totals are examples of Highest and Lowest Possibilities)

JL Stealthbox $500-600 (Loss of centre console)
Amp $150-250
Total $650-850

Q Logic $150-$250 (Loss of rear storage)
2x8" Subs $75 - $200
Amp $150-$250
Total $375-$700

Rear Door $ Free (Loss of rear speakers)
2x6.5 Subs $50-$100
Amp $150-$250
Total $200-$350

Obviously other costs include wiring, sound deadening...etc but it is pretty constant for all three option.

I have not tried any of these option nor have i heard the results. It goes without saying that the stealthbox and qlogic will have more output and perhaps a cleaner sound. The problem i have with those options is first off the price and secondly the loss of storage. I dont want earth shatter bass but i want to be able to enjoy my music. Im going to try the rear door setup with 2 Tang Band woofers with an ???? amp sending each woofer 100rms watts. If they can take more might try more power but in infinite baffle i think 100 should be enough. Cheers

 

I was wondering the same as you because that kicker makes a 6.5 inch woofer and would probably fit nicely in the rear door but like you I have not heard of anyone trying that setup...so please let us know how it works out and good luck to you

 

Two things to consider:
1. You get what you pay for {so don't buy cheap parts express speakers}
2. A lower wattage speaker can save you $$$ on an amp since it is more efficient - but refer to #1

It also depends on what type of music you listen to, how you cross over your amp{s} and how well you prep your rear doors to avoid rattles.

One of the most popular bookshelf speakers since the late seventies on were the Radio Shack Minimus 7 speakers. Its secret for midbass was insulation in the airspace for the midbass driver. Placing polyfill {think pillow stuffing} loosely in the airspace will help with the rattling and improve response.

 

Two things to consider:
1. You get what you pay for {so don't buy cheap parts express speakers}
2. A lower wattage speaker can save you $$$ on an amp since it is more efficient - but refer to #1

It also depends on what type of music you listen to, how you cross over your amp{s} and how well you prep your rear doors to avoid rattles.

One of the most popular bookshelf speakers since the late seventies on were the Radio Shack Minimus 7 speakers. Its secret for midbass was insulation in the airspace for the midbass driver. Placing polyfill {think pillow stuffing} loosely in the airspace will help with the rattling and improve response.

For the cost they are worth a shot. Not to mentional all the reviews raving about their performance. In one instance they were compared directly to the Elemental Designs 7kv.2 and were said to outperform them with less wattage. All this at half of the price (sale priced)!!! I think that its worth it to find out if decent bass can be had for a couple hundred $$. Hell the qlogic alone is worth $200 and you cant use it in anything else.

 

Sounds like a good project, definitely keep us updated as you go.

 

I just finished a little project a few weeks ago. I wanted more bass but didn't want to hack and put 8" or 10" subs in. I compromised and ended up installing JBL 6.5" GTO627 speakers in the rear doors and a JBL GTO75.2 amp behind the rear seat. With the right equalizer setup ( using Pioneer Premier DEH-P400UB deck) this produces some excellent bass and can rock the seats. The results were far better than expected.

 

Thats pretty well the same attitude I have towards the stereo. I may end up changing the fronts to a nice component set to beter match the rear speakers if they drown them out but we'll see. Im trying to keep the factory deck at all costs. I like how it blends in with the dash, keeps theives from taking a second look and adds to the whole stealth thing. Glad to hear about your success. Ill keep my project updated when all my parts come in.

 

Something like in this thread would be awesome, too bad they were for Taco's.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/group-buys/122145-closed-group-buy-xtreme-kreations-group/
I already have the q-logic, but I could go for more bass. I wonder if, given enough Tundra interest, we could get a similar group buy going?

 

You should do a search first!!! I believe the thread was about 2 years ago.
I'm pretty sure someone tried the eu-700/7kv.2's already but if I remember right they didn't fit. He managed to mount them up to the speaker hole/baffle but when he went to close the door the magnet got in the way of the door hinge. That was a long time ago, maybe I'm wrong but figured you might wanna open up that panel to see for yourself before ordering something that won't fit.

 

Like I said in my first post ive read almost everything on the subject. He did say that it hit some bar that holds the door open but that was on a 2000 tundra. Mine is a 2006 and when I opened up the panel to check mounting depth it looked like that bar has been cover up. I also mentioned that the speaker in using, which has a depth of just under 4", might require a spacer but I dont think it will. Ive read another post where somebody has mounted the same speakers im using (tangbands) with no problems. Im just waiting for the stuff to come in.

Check back in a week or so for some pics

 

I have been looking through the all the toyota and audio fourms searching for any advice on adding subs to a tundra with an access cab. I havent really thought about removing the rear door speakers but it sounds like a good idea. I interested if any one has done this and could provide more information.

 

I dont think it will work very well. I have experiance with both subs, and while they are great models, they wont work very well in a *plastic* door housing. It will rattle and vibrate more than you can imagine, and due to the fact that the speakers are running Infiate Baffle, they will take much much more power to produce the same amount of bass as a speaker in an enclosure.

I've had about 5 different systems in my truck. IMO, spend the money, you wont regret it and you will never have to worry about changing it due to poor sound. I'd get the stealth box, front components and a 4ch amp if I had to do it again. Leave the rear speakers run off the h/u.

 

My speakers and amp came in yesterday! Anyways I figured I would do some test fitting before i got carried away with the install.

The Tangband woofers fit nicely into the plastic housings. All that is required is to trim the little nipples which locate the stock speakers and trim a small amount of bracing along the bottom, (the trimming literally takes 2 seconds). After this I tried putting the assembly back into the door. It fit back in perfectly. I was alittle worried about the bar hitting the subs when closing the door but because of the smaller magnet diameter it is a non-issue. No spacers are required and the bar DOES NOT touch it.

I ended up going with a Alpine MRD-M301 amplifier. It will give these speaker more power than they will likely handle but can be adjusted accordingly. It is a perfect match though, as it has most features that would be controlled by an aftermarket headunit built right into its own digital display, which is great because im keeping the factory headunit. It is also a fully digital class D amp which will be easy on the electrical system. I plan on putting this amp in the rear compartment where it fits nicely. I dont want it under the passager seat as it would be hard to adjust the settings.

As for hooking it all up I went with a Navone LOC which hasnt arrived as well as some sound deadener and wiring. I have thought about using foam to create an enclosure for the subs inside the door but will wait till I hear the results before I start tinkering.

The total for this is as follow

2 Tangband 1139sc woofers $70 shipped (ebay) new
1 Alpine MRD M301 amplifier $95 shipped (ebay) used but mint
1 Navone 2 channel LOC $25 shipped
Wiring, Sound Deadener $50+-

This brings a grand total of $240

Went I do install everything I will take pictures and be sure to tell you the results, Probably this weekend.

 

Cool, sounds like everything is going great! I cant wait to see the finished product:tu:

 

Any updates ???

 

Yes I do!!

The pictures wont be up for two days but I have everything installed minus the deadener and foam.

The speakers fit into the door perfectly, some minor trimming was required to get them to fit into the plastic housings.

I ran new speaker wires from the passanger side of the rear compartment to each door. There is a grommet where the factory wires run through. The problem is that there is a harness that connects the cab wires to the door wires. There is a clip that hold the harness to the cab side which has to be removed to get new wires through. Its not that big of a deal and the grommet can just be suffed in more to seal it back up.

I ran the power wire for the amp through the firewall grommet and under the plastic door sill on the drivers side all the way to the rear seat compartment. then across to the passanger side of the compartment to the amp. The ground wire goes from the amp to one of the bolts on the factory amp bracket. I tapped into the grey wire on the factory amp for the 12volt signal to turn on my amp. Using the navone 2channel LOC I snipped the wires for the rear door speakers and connected them to the LOC. Everything turns on and works great!!

Upon powering up the system my first impressions were great. The amp provides more than enough power for the subs. The subs really move. Im pretty sure I could measure all 13mm of xmax on these babies and they still dont touch the plastic door panel!! That said deadening is a must. I knew that it was going to be the case and didnt even plan on installing everything else till the deadener came im but it was delayed a week so I went ahead with everything else. I purchased 12square feet of second second damplifier. That should be enough to cover both rear doors and inside and out. I also purchased some 1.5" foam (camping matress) which I will be stuffing in the door vertically to separate the rear half of the door from the front half and hopefully create more of an enclosure for the sub.

Im very confident that after the deadening and foam these subs will be extremely tight. Like I said though the pictures will be up in afew days as well as my final verdict on whether or not this is a good option for a low-cost stereo upgrade.

 

I did have afew pictures comparing the stock speakers to the subs and of the subs installed in the plastic housings. More to come

 

I finished putting in all the foam and sound deadener. What a difference! The sound is like night and day compared to the un-deadend. I am very happy with the results. There would be better bass response from the qlogic or stealthbox. The purpose of this setup was not to win any spl comps, simply to improve the stock stereo in a stealthy and inexpensive way. The only visible part of this install is the power wire and fuse under the hood. Here are the pictures of the deadening and foam install. The total for my setup is as follows

2 tangband woofers $70shipped
1 apline mrd-m301 amp $95shipped
wiring $45
Navone LOC $25shipped
sound deadening and foam $70

total is $305

There are 2 pictures of how i stuffed in the foam to separate the door and create an "enclosure". One picture show some plastic baffling that I removed from the door panel because it vibrated badly...and is useless. The other picture is of the deadener on the outside of the door. I also put deadener inside the doors behind the subs but the pics didnt turn out.

 

wow, this is great! i've been wondering of a way to upgrade my system without losing the stock deck.

great job!

 

I tried and tried to get any decent bass out of my 2006 access cab, and it was all in vain. Until I got a Lightning kit from Crutchfield
Lightning Audio Bass Package 150-watt amplifier, 10" subwoofer in truck-style enclosure, and wiring at Crutchfield.com


Holy Cow ! This thing is LOUD !

The bass module is a wooden box with a 10" woofer in it and it will deliver some serious bass. It fits between the rear and the front seat. In case someone sits back there, I can move the woofer around or remove it entirely ( simply disconnect 2 wires ).

Rarely do I ever have passengers back there anyway.

Anyway, for $150 total you can have amazing bass, clean and forceful enough to rattke the rear view mirror !

It is also very easy to tune : variable cross over network, 6db boost, low filter and variable gain. It is perfect for me.

 

kind of the antithesis of this whole thread though. he wanted to keep it looking factory, not to mention when you've got a sub sitting in your back seat it yells "steal me"