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Discussion Starter #1
my 2000 tundra has a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd gear,I also notice that it waits about 2000 rpm more before shifting compared to 1st to 2nd. Also when you put it in reverse there is a second delay then snaps into gear pretty hard. Ive had it to a transmission repair shop and they hooked it up to diagnostic computer and said nothing was wrong. The main reason I suspect something wrong is all the other gears preform smoothely accept 2nd to 3rd and Park to reverse. Has anyone else experienced this problem or does anyone know what might be wrong? Any information is appreciated thanks.
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Yeah. I strongly suggest you try Auto-Rx. The link to purchase is in my sig below. PM TS member INDYMAC for further testimonials.

Also, make sure to crawl under your truck and lube the shift cable connector assembly on the driver side of the transmission housing. This can get gummed up with grime and road debris and make physical shifts difficult.
 

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This was the same thing that was going on with my 2000 Tundra for several thousand miles/years. I couldn't get the dealership to do anything about it. I tried a couple of tranny servicings and then two more flushes. It was still shifting hard between 2-3, sometimes violently. Then I found Auto-Rx and used it. It started cleaning up the tranny immediately. Then I flushed it with Schaeffer's #204 SAT synthetic tranny fluid. My tranny was now better than new! Since doing the initial Auto-Rx treatment, I did it again after 25K miles and will continue to do this interval until I get rid of my truck (probably never will though). Schaeffer's is an excellent ATF for this truck, but I'm sure that Mobil1 and AMSOIL ATF would be great choices too. Good luck!
 

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I have been hearing a lot about Auto Rx treatment and Im all for using it for a last resort. The thing is that i have an extended warranty that covers mostly all of the transmission. I had it to the dealership and they say they think that the clutches are worn, but dont know for sure, they didnt even drop the pan to look they said you cant see the clutches from the pan. So they say they dont know for sure wats wrong until they take transmission out. However clutches are not covered by warranty so any work they did goin after these clutches would not be paid for. I was just hoping someone might know or have and idea what else it could be. Ive been reading a lot about OD planetary gears being the cause for symptoms like mine. The planetary system is covered by warranty so i am hoping that is what is wrong, do you think this could be my problem?
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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I have been hearing a lot about Auto Rx treatment and Im all for using it for a last resort. The thing is that i have an extended warranty that covers mostly all of the transmission. I had it to the dealership and they say they think that the clutches are worn, but dont know for sure, they didnt even drop the pan to look they said you cant see the clutches from the pan. So they say they dont know for sure wats wrong until they take transmission out. However clutches are not covered by warranty so any work they did goin after these clutches would not be paid for. I was just hoping someone might know or have and idea what else it could be. Ive been reading a lot about OD planetary gears being the cause for symptoms like mine. The planetary system is covered by warranty so i am hoping that is what is wrong, do you think this could be my problem?
They're screwing you. If they dropped the pan, they can at least tell if there are significant amounts of metal shavings/debris which would indicate the potential of your transmission internals starting to grenade on you. The hard shifts between 2nd and 3rd are not related to your OD planetary gears.

I would bet $$$ that your issue is one or more clogged valve bodies, which Auto-Rx is perfect for. I urge you to consider an Auto-Rx treatment as a first resort. It will not void your warranty.

What do you have to lose? The worst that will happen is that your transmission will get a good cleaning. At best, you're savings thousands of $$$ in unneeded transmssion repairs/replacement.

Your call.
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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is that auto rx available at any retail stores or only sold on the internet
Internet-only direct from the manufacturer. You can actually call the company and get the inventor of the stuff on the horn!

I suggest you buy at least 3 bottles as the price/bottle drops considerably. You WILL be finding other uses for it. It is an engine cleaner as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I bought and used the Auto Rx treatment and am at about 600 miles on it. Am i supposed to notice anything getting better or will it not be until I get the transmission flushed?
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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I bought and used the Auto Rx treatment and am at about 600 miles on it. Am i supposed to notice anything getting better or will it not be until I get the transmission flushed?
I noticed it within 100 miles or so. You need to get the ATF up to operating temperature and hold it there for the stuff to work. Short hops just don't really do it.

Q: How much did you put in? You might want to add a few more ounces and see how that works.

Q: What ATF are you planning on running after the flush?
 

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I have added a little more of the auto rx and since have got to 1000 miles. Still havent noticed much difference maybe little. Im ready for tranny flush i looked around town for the schaefer #204 synthetic but all i can find is schaefer universal full synthetic. Will this work or should i go with Mobile 1 full synthetic?
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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I have added a little more of the auto rx and since have got to 1000 miles. Still havent noticed much difference maybe little. Im ready for tranny flush i looked around town for the schaefer #204 synthetic but all i can find is schaefer universal full synthetic. Will this work or should i go with Mobile 1 full synthetic?
I would add another oz and drive it another 500-750 miles. Then either do a complete flush, or like I did, do a drain/refill (4qts Mobil-1 Synthetic ATF) once every week or so for about month; it's easier than an oil change!

I also have the Magnefine inline ATF filter that filters down to 10-15 microns so I wasn't worried about debris continually flowing through the system.
 

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I have added a little more of the auto rx and since have got to 1000 miles. Still havent noticed much difference maybe little. Im ready for tranny flush i looked around town for the schaefer #204 synthetic but all i can find is schaefer universal full synthetic. Will this work or should i go with Mobile 1 full synthetic?
The new ARX application instructions say to run the ARX in the tranny for 3000 miles and then do a full flush. Did you use 6 ozs? Did you use any in your power steering fluid too? If not, add 2 ozs to the PS reservoir too and flush that system when you flush the ATF.

Schaeffers #204 is called (on the label) Supreme All-Trans Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid. So it sounds like your local source has the right stuff. If not you can order it from this guy, probably at a better price:

Home

It's probably best to just call him for prices.

#204 is outstanding for both the tranny and the Power steering. Buy 2 cases (24 qts) and it will allow you to flush the tranny and PS fluids and leave enough over for a drain and fill when you're ready again.
 

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Not to beat a dead Ford or anything, but my truck has tranny issues too. I have a 2000 (automatic) Tundra with 160,000. Recently my truck had a nice loud thud in the middle of the cab underneath (tranny area) at about 25-35 mph. The truck would get up in gears and sound like it downshifted to keep going at town speeds and sound like the tranny was going to let loose. Then I noticed it wasn't very easy to shift back into Park or even start the truck and go down into Drive (sort of had to force it). Reading this post it might not be a total rebuild, but I might have it flushed and the magnets checked anyhow. Anyone out there with any similar problems with their Tundra? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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I know this is a very old post, but i am having the same exact problem with my 2001 4.7. i also tryed AutoRX with no results. Took it to a mechanic and they dropped that pan and found no metal particles at all.

They mentioned that it was likely a direct drive clutch problem as that clutch is what controls shifting into 3rd and Reverse.

Brunner, did you end up finding anything? Did the trans end up failing? I hoping to get some info on this. Thanks!
 

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I know this is a very old post, but i am having the same exact problem with my 2001 4.7. i also tryed AutoRX with no results. Took it to a mechanic and they dropped that pan and found no metal particles at all.

They mentioned that it was likely a direct drive clutch problem as that clutch is what controls shifting into 3rd and Reverse.

Brunner, did you end up finding anything? Did the trans end up failing? I hoping to get some info on this. Thanks!
I would check the trans mount and the trans crossmember mounts for possible play or a broken/missing bolts


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I know this is a very old post, but i am having the same exact problem with my 2001 4.7. i also tryed AutoRX with no results. Took it to a mechanic and they dropped that pan and found no metal particles at all.

They mentioned that it was likely a direct drive clutch problem as that clutch is what controls shifting into 3rd and Reverse.

Brunner, did you end up finding anything? Did the trans end up failing? I hoping to get some info on this. Thanks!
Bud I had the same problem with mine. I bought it with 114k miles on it and it had a little bump in it then. It continue to get worse and worse I let a transmission man ride with me and he said some do have a hard shift to drive it till it quits and I did I drove it like that for 120k miles and it never let me down.
 

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I also have the hard shift from 2-3. I tried using auto rx but it showed little to no effect after driving with it in for 1200 miles. The jerk is less rough the slower I speed up. But if it shifts at anything above 3000 rpms it will throw your head back into the seat after a short hesitation or sometimes just a quick hard shift. Feels like the shift kit in my buddie's gto. If anyone has any ideas Id greatly appreciate it. Is a trans flush even worth trying when the shift is this hard? What else could be done other than major repair?
 

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hi , 1st thing i would diffidently try is AUTO RX. i have yet to hear 1 bad word spoken about the product. i use it regularly. in motor oil, power steering & transmission. well worth the $30. i poured it in started the truck & went through all gears. about 1 minute per gear, while standing still. after that take it for a ride. Good Luck. i am about to place another order. maybe we could get a GROUP BUY. If the Mod's would allow it. i would want 5 bottles myself. Gorilla :)
 
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