[2000V8]

I was driving my truck and a thumping noise had started to sound under my cab, could feel it through the floor of my cab too. I'm new to working on this truck and am looking for ideas of what I should be checking for?

Many thanks.

 

[cheapskate]

Does it get faster with speed or revs?

 

[2000V8]

Yes, so it is tied to either the driveshaft or wheels and when I ease onto the brakes it gets louder. It can be felt on both passenger and driver side.

 

[cheapskate]

Drive shaft spins faster than the wheels so do you think its the same speed as the wheels? Not saying I have an answer but the more info you put out there the higher the chance someone might be able to help you.
No chance its a build up of ice in the rims is it?

 

[TwinStop]

Check the carrier bearing

 

[2000V8]

Alright well was taking it for a drive to feel the thumping and my lug bolts sheared off the wheel hub. Took it into the dealer and asked them what would cause this, they said over torquing would. I torque the lug nuts at 90ftlbs, they recommended 95ftlbs... So it wasn't that which has me confused. I'm back on the road again, just had to replace the brake rotor. Has this happened before to any of you?

 

[123GO]

It can happen by putting a wheel on but the wheel/rim was not fully up against the rotor/brake drum and one snugs the nuts up "hand tight" or "not tightened enough". Then the vehicle was lowered and you torqued the nuts to 90.. Fact is the wheel wasn't actually on all the way before lowering car. It didn't tighten snug to the hub when torqued because the lower part of the wheel while being on the ground the wheel cannot move inward to close the hub/rim gap even torqued to spec. It couldn't move to go on..
So' it then loosened up more as you drove it and nuts fell off, wobble thump and "Omg my wheel flew through an oncoming cars windshield etc".. Ya, that is what happens more times than we ever know...
Just count your blessings if nobody was killed, learn and move on.. When you tighten nuts "always" spin the wheel around slowly and verify there is no gap between hub/rim. I use a 4 way to snug nuts up due to this issue btw.

1-Sears did this to our car installing tires but I even checked the wheel torque once I got home. Wheel backed off, didn't come off car on the interstate thank god. Right away, I knew I screwed up because I should have raised the car then tightened nuts then lowered it and torqued them again...Lesson learned, moved on!!

2-Pep Boys torqued our 95 Camry to over 210 ft once (rated 90). I learned a week later as I broke 2 lugnuts trying to remove lugnuts for brakes. Drove to Pep Boys argued "Its impossible" they're manager said. Ten minutes later as he came from back area I said, "So' how many lugs did you break". He answered "13"..."I'm so sorry sir, seems our new employee brought his industrial impact in, we'll fix it all like new" and they did so. All new nuts/lugs/hubs/rotors.. Motegi wheels are very tough.. Still own all 4, was over 10yrs ago balance perfectly. Imagine changing tire on side of road here?

NOTE TO SELF-- Lesson learned, drive straight home, lift car with jack, inspect/tighten wheel with a tire tool, lower it and torque nuts regardless who took my damn wheels off...We all have to learn bro!
Peace

 

[2000V8]

Well see this is where it got funny, I hand tighten the nuts so and check that the wheel is on all the way. When I torque I follow the classic star pattern and just lower the wheel so it has enough grip to torque the nuts. I know out here they salt the roads whereas I am used to dirt being used instead so that might have rusted it a bit. Otherwise yeah I get what you mean, at least now I know what it feels like before it happens again.