Toyota Tundra Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So there are a few issues.
Causes of battery drain
1. The beep that normally sounds when I leave my lights on doesn't work. It never has since I bought it used. ANyway I left my lights on for about 30 min and I had to get me car jumped.
2. The cargo light inside is kinda finiky. The cargo light button will turn on on its own it seems and that has killed my battery.
3. My door wasn't completely closed and the cargo light stayed on and killed my battery again.

Starting problems
4. After that last time, when I went to jump it, it would immediately shut off. So my thought was that I ruined the battery and alternator. I replaced both, and now the interior lights won't turn on and the engine wont turn over. There is a constant clicking sound coming from around the steering wheel- and no its not my blinker. My head lights turn on fine and don't dim when I turn the key. Could now my starter be bad also? Are the connections to the alternator bad?
5. One other thing. I put the car into drive and it rolls like it is in neutral. What is the problem there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
im having trouble understanding whats going on here.... so lets start like this......

first check your fuses and make sure they arent blown (lights lead me to believe possibly blown fuses or shorted wire harness).

now if thats all fine lets go to next step. when you put key into acc position does the radio, headlights, door open alarm, etc. work? if so go on if not check battery (batt studs, terminals, battery charge, etc)

If all that works, when you go to crank the engine do you hear a clicking sound? (solenoid engaging on starter). if so and there is no cranking happening again check battery connection (if battery isnt properly connected the accessories will work but wont have enough juice to crank the starter). if all is good have your starter tested (could just be a dead spot on starter).

go through these tests real quick and let me know what is outcome and we can go from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
1. None of the fuses are blown. I checked the box under the streering wheel and by the battery.

2. Nothing in the interior turns on but the head lights do. There is no beeping sound when I open the door. The overhead light will also not turn on.

3.When I crank it nothing happens which leads me to believe my solenoid is stuck. SO i put it in drive to give it a push to loosen the solenoid, but the truck rolls forward.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
657 Posts
I had similar situation ......................................

RELAYS -- They may fail. They don't throw a code. You can't look at one and determine if it's good or not.

I had to replace the STARTER and FUEL INJECTION relays.

Good Luck
George60
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,732 Posts
Electrical gremlins can be difficult to resolve with sketchy information but what punksurfer024 said about the battery terminals would be a good start, no pun intended. Toyota band type battery terminals are notorious for corroding up and limiting current flow.

I faced the starting problem with my wife's Lexus some time ago and it turned out to be the battery terminals so I replaced both which solved the starting problem.

First make sure your battery is in good condition and that you have good connections at the positive and negative posts then check for short circuits, faulty wiring, fuses, relays and such. If all is well here then you may have to consult a specialty shop with appropriate diagnostic equipment.

Item # 2 the cargo light automatically comes on when you open the door but you can override this by pressing the cargo light button if you have the doors open for any length of time. However when you close the door and re-open the cargo light returns to normal on mode. The cargo light will stay on for 30 seconds or so when you shut the door or will go off instantly when you lock the door and close it. I personally find the cargo light operation limitations annoying.

Item # 3 Pretty much self explanatory.

Item # 5 This is normal and as long as the parking position is not engaged the transmission will freewheel.

On your interior lights do you mean the overhead dome light and door lights? The overhead dome light has three switch positions; on off and automatic. The lights located in the doors are independent of the dome light switch control and are not on switched power i.e. they come on automatically when the doors are opened. The map lights above the rear view mirror are not on switched power and can be turned on and off as required. These too are independent of the other interior lights. So don't turn these on and leave them on they could discharge the battery over time but not overnight.

And by the way there's a 30 amp F/L on the positive battery cable so check this too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So I checked the starter relay and sure enough, it was blown. So I changed it, and with a new battery it starts up fine. But the issue still remains that I have no radio, over head dome light, or push button lights by the rear view mirror. Is this all connected to a fuse. Anyone know which one?

Thanks for all the help so far
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Check your manual if you have one or check the fuse boxes. They are all labeled well. I believe the fuse box you need is on the side of the glove box area??? I can't remember, I've never had to open the fuse boxes. Also check your ground lead coming both off the battery and going to the ground spot on the truck. It sounds like your truck is not grounding properly and causing things to short out. Good luck!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
169 Posts
I also was going to suggest the truck end of the negative battery cable, this has to be just as clean a connection as any on the truck. On mine, the fuse box is under the hood by the battery, and down by the steering wheel by the door. I never rely on visual, I use a meter to check continuity on a fuse, perhaps overkill but do it anyway. May be a stupid question, but did you check the water level in all of the cells of the battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I still am having problems with my Tundra. The radio and interior lights won't come on. The clock resets every time I turn on the truck.I have checked all the fuses in the box behind the battery and by the steering column, but haven't gotten luck. Is it possible that a fuse looks ok but isn't functioning properly? Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Sounds like some one cooked the "ACC" circut, basically thats all the goodies that come on with the key in the first "on" position. The radio "mem", dome, and clock "mem" are "always on" along with the stupid buzzer. If you look for a small guage wire usually yellow,off the back of the radio. Its supposed to always have power all the time, keyed or not. If someone has put an aftermarket sterio, or "had" one b4 you or alarm ect.., then tryed to put it back to stock....... they probably shorted the hot lead.
IF you want to save some cash... and feel somewhat mechanically inclined... Id buy a cheap "test light" one from your local parts store, or even wallmart, "there nearly all the same so dont go spend 95 bucks on something your only gonna use a few times."
Im not sure what happend to your rig but you definatly had more than one problem,Or the original problem killed several circuts. Im curious what you mean by "blown starter relay" since they arent fused as much as they are a switch, or a set of small coiled wires.
Was it melted/cooked or shorted/fused? or
Did it have so much "current" run threw it so quick it actually fused the wire inside? Would smell like.... a house fire or electrical buring kinda thing,lol hard to convey,and hard to forget,
I only ask because one is a high current quik blowing action, actually cutting the wire inside the relay.Like something that might happen if you accidently arked your batt or alt during install,with the key on?. "not that you did" but the other is a slow, more of a "cooking" action,because of lower current but higher heat, melting the plastic deforming the cade and plugs causing failure that way. "you should be able to smell burnt plastic"?
well either way, hope that helps.lol I know im long winded but you never know what ability people are, you no.
As far as fixing it...... Well, you can just look for the short, Id start at the grounds, and the back of the fuse boxs..... a real pain but worth looking at. The other solution is just making another hot wire and sticking it on the "batt" lead on the radio harness,it would feed back threw the rest of the system and would be pretty easy to find. ALTHOUGH...... Ill warn you this may cause problems because what evers shorted may really cook finishing it off,BUT this also may help you locate the problem. so proceed at your own risk is all im saying. Again hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Wow thanks Hybridtoys and everyone who is taking so much time to help me out. When you mentioned the annoying buzzer, i remembered that since I bought the truck the buzzer didn't work- which lead to my forgetting to turn off the lights and draining the battery. The radio and dome lights did work when I bought it. It is weird that if the acc circuit was the problem, then why did my radio work before? I will do the testing though with the hot wire to the radio. Do you happen to know where this ACC circuit is in my 2000 Tundra?

I might have blown both the starter relay and maybe the ACC circuit when I was replacing the alternator because I didn't disconnect the battery- it was really dead so I didn't think it mattered.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top