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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2001 Tundra 4.7, 130,000, new timing belt, pulleys, hoses, plugs. Was running great and just died while driving. Had it towed home, rented a fuel pressure gage, no pressure when ignition on or cranking. Replaced filter and fuel pump but haven't rechecked fuel pressure. Engine either starts and dies or will not start at all since replacement. Any help out there, please..........
 

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Fuel pump relay? Blown fuse? Can you hear the fuel pump running in the tank with key on/while cranking
 

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Fuel pump relay? Blown fuse? Can you hear the fuel pump running in the tank with key on/while cranking
Good advice here. Test for power to the relay w/ the key in the start or run position. This will help you narrow down the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Checked relays and all work, checked all the fuses, also checked the fuel pump I replaced, it worked also, checked the pressure regulator, doesn't seem to be a problem, still no fuel pressure. None..........wondering if it might be the ECU? Called local Toyota parts department and they said they have never sold a ECU but looked up the part no ($800 plus $100 core) and said if Toyota was charging for a core they must have had some problems with the ECU in the past.
 

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Did you try jumping the relay out with a jumper wire? Can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank if you listen from under the vehicle. Maybe a broken wire or a bad ground to the fuel pump? Reason I say bad ground is I had a Chevy truck a while back and the fuel pump went bad. I replaced the pump, which involved removing the fuel tank. In the process of reassembly, I started, but neglected to tighten the bolt that held a bunch of ground wires to the frame. Truck ran good until I was about 50 miles away from home and decided to quit. Found the bad ground I had forgotten to tighten the bolt on.
 

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Well then. jjsinaz has a good point, the ground is as important as power. I don't have a ground map for a Tundra but most vehicles have 4-6 common ground points on the body, usually on the inner fender walls and behind the kick panels in the cab. Remove the bolts and sand and reinstall, they are installed after the cab is painted so the connection is compromised from the start. Also most of the relays are the same (not going out in the dark) swap'm around. Also do a voltage drop test on the wiring going to the pump, manufactures use weather pack fittings but they can corrode and cause what your experiencing. High milage Isuzu Troopers were good for this, there was a connector on the right rear frame rail that would cause intermittent pump operation, cutting it out and installing heat sealed butt connectors would fix it up.
 
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