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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As you read, my tundra pulls hard right when I get on the brakes when trying to stop or slow down on an off-ramp. I've done everything I can think of to try and fix it, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, steering bushings, new tires, more than one alignment, and nothing seems to work. I've also been a mechanic (cars, aircraft, yachts) for the majority of my 40 years on this earth.

It's an old truck, 436K miles, but I've done almost the entire front suspension, considered the steering rack but it seems good, just fixed the leaky power steering hoses, and I can't seem to figure this thing out. No matter what I do, it just pulls hard right on braking.

A year or so ago I did all new calipers, pads, and rotors in the front and nothing changed. I'm about to do the rear brakes and wheel bearings so maybe a rear brake is the issue?
 

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How about brake fluid flow to the LEFT front brake? If it is less than the right it would pull right as you describe. My first, and probably also yours would be dealing with brake adjustment or flow to R/F but that may not be the issue at all??? Just a thought...Chap
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How about brake fluid flow to the LEFT front brake? If it is less than the right it would pull right as you describe. My first, and probably also yours would be dealing with brake adjustment or flow to R/F but that may not be the issue at all??? Just a thought...Chap
I had a moment late last night where I may have figured out the issue. The old rubber brake lines may be worn out, or just the drivers side causing the brake to not actuate as fast as the passenger one. I'm going to go get new brake lines and replace all of them this weekend. I feel like an idiot, never came across this issue before but I may have figured it out. I initially thought it might be the steering rack but flushing the fluid and replacing the filler neck hoses fixed the loose steering issue I was having before.

I'll post an update after I swap the brake lines this weekend.
 

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Rubber brake hoses will swell up inside and not allow fluid to pass through. Sometimes won’t allow fluid back up to the reservoir, then you get a sticky caliper situation. Doesn’t sound like that’s the case for you though. Get a temp gun and go drive the truck. Give it a few decent stops and then check your brake temps on all 4 corners. I would honestly guess you have a stuck piston in your left front caliper. That will stop braking pressure from getting to that caliper and definitely make the truck pull hard right on stops only. Either that or a hose not letting fluid through but I would put more weight into a stuck caliper


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rubber brake hoses will swell up inside and not allow fluid to pass through. Sometimes won’t allow fluid back up to the reservoir, then you get a sticky caliper situation. Doesn’t sound like that’s the case for you though. Get a temp gun and go drive the truck. Give it a few decent stops and then check your brake temps on all 4 corners. I would honestly guess you have a stuck piston in your left front caliper. That will stop braking pressure from getting to that caliper and definitely make the truck pull hard right on stops only. Either that or a hose not letting fluid through but I would put more weight into a stuck caliper


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It's definitely not the caliper itself, they are brand new and I had this issue before I installed the newer larger brake calipers, new rotors, and pads. That was my first thought, and the whole reason I replaced all of the brakes, I just didn't replace the hoses themselves and wish I had at the time.
 

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It's definitely not the caliper itself, they are brand new and I had this issue before I installed the newer larger brake calipers, new rotors, and pads. That was my first thought, and the whole reason I replaced all of the brakes, I just didn't replace the hoses themselves and wish I had at the time.
Then I would say it’s the hoses. At least the next step I would take. New hoses and flushing fluid through I bet will fix your issue


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Just to throw something else out there have you rotated your tires? I had a tire that had a broken belt inside and it would pull like crazy when I hit the brakes and I thought it was first the alignment and then the brakes but finally I rotated the fronts to the back the problem went away and upon closer inspection it was the tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just to throw something else out there have you rotated your tires? I had a tire that had a broken belt inside and it would pull like crazy when I hit the brakes and I thought it was first the alignment and then the brakes but finally I rotated the fronts to the back the problem went away and upon closer inspection it was the tire
That plus two alignments one before and one after I changed out the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends. It's odd, because if I lightly press on the brakes it's fine, but when you need to really slow down quickly, it pulls one way for a few seconds and then back the other way, usually right as I've already corrected for the first pull to the right. I'm thinking it's old worn out brake lines. The truck has 430K miles on the original engine. I've also done the wheel bearings already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Have you got those hoses changed yet? Chap
I have, but at the same time I decided to swap out the springs, struts, upper control arms, and lower control arm bushings so it's going to take me until after next weekend to get everything back together.

I did notice that the drivers side brake line is really flexible while the passenger side still feels stiff and solid. I'm guessing the drivers side brake line is weak and not getting the pressure to the brake caliper as fast as the passenger one but we will see here next week once I get all this work done. 433,000 miles is just too much on original suspension.

154990

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Sounds like a wise choice. I am of the mentality that I fix/replace as much as I can so I don't have to tear into recently done fixes to get to something that I should have dealt with when I had the thing in "fix'n mode". Not an unexpected replacement of parts for a trusty road warrior of 433k. Chap
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sounds like a wise choice. I am of the mentality that I fix/replace as much as I can so I don't have to tear into recently done fixes to get to something that I should have dealt with when I had the thing in "fix'n mode". Not an unexpected replacement of parts for a trusty road warrior of 433k. Chap
I'm the same way, I regret not replacing all of this when I got the truck at 326K from the towing auction. It's not really a necessary vehicle as it's just my winter beater 4WD, but it sure would be nice if it would try to stay on the road. HA
 

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I have had a similar problem in the past on my 05 GX470 with a full Icon 2.5 series suspension (still the same configuration as the tundra so a valid comparison). I initially had my coil overs set the same number of turns/preload on both the driver and passenger side. It was not enough pre-load for the extra weight on my driver side (driver, fuel tank, battery etc...). At the start of heavy braking the driver side would dive first and cause it to pull to the left until the whole front suspension settled under compression and would go straight again.
First check that your springs are both the same part and spring rate. Some do have a left and right spring because of differences in stock weight balance. You may just need to swap the springs left and right. If the springs are the same and the perches are adjustable bump the passenger side up a few notches and see how that changes things. If it improves or starts pulling to the driver you are on the right path and just need to get it to balance our under braking. Just another possibility to consider. I got mine just right and still getting used to not having to counter steer....lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After having to use a 6" cutoff wheel, a sawzall, and a lot of brute force, we were able to get the old lower control arms out. It took us 2 full days to get them out, and then less than an hour to install the new uppers, lowers, springs and struts with the original spacer lift for a total of about 4-4.25" of lift. We will see what happens once we finish it up tomorrow and change the brake lines, power steering return hoses, and get the steering rack back mounted up again. What a total mess of a week.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just to give a final update, I was able to test drive my truck today after replacing the Power Steering Return hoses, brake hoses, Upper and Lower Control Arms, Springs and Struts. She rides smooth and stops in a straight line now. She gets a proper alignment later this week but for now, I'm good.
 

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Just to give a final update, I was able to test drive my truck today after replacing the Power Steering Return hoses, brake hoses, Upper and Lower Control Arms, Springs and Struts. She rides smooth and stops in a straight line now. She gets a proper alignment later this week but for now, I'm good.
Glad to hear it. Old girl just needed some work. Mine’s only at 216,000. Gotta do lower control arms soon and the steering rack. Really don’t wanna do any of it, but the wife needs something to drive.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The lower control arms were a real pain, a 6" cutoff wheel on my grinder and a sawzall metal blade worked but it took 2 days just to get the lower control arms off the frame.
 

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The lower control arms were a real pain, a 6" cutoff wheel on my grinder and a sawzall metal blade worked but it took 2 days just to get the lower control arms off the frame.
Yeah I’ve heard the horror stories. Did you use a torch in any of it? Wondering if it’ll make it easier. My truck doesn’t have any bad rust issues so I’m hoping mine won’t be too horrible to get done.


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah I’ve heard the horror stories. Did you use a torch in any of it? Wondering if it’ll make it easier. My truck doesn’t have any bad rust issues so I’m hoping mine won’t be too horrible to get done.


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The frame and lower control arms on my truck didn't look rusty at all, very little in fact. The inside piece of the Cam Bolt rusts to the bushing sleeve so I would be prepared for that issue. I didn't use a torch, the cutoff wheel was the most readily available option for me. I did try spraying them all down with PB Blaster every day for a few days before but the cam bolt was really rusted to the sleeve.
 
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