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This is my first time posting here so I hope I'm in the right spot and following procedures. I also hope someone can help...

Short version: I'd like to find the ignitor control module and ECM on this truck. I've googled and stared at pictures and youtube videos until I'm cross eyed... no luck.

Many thanks!

John

Long Version:

Long story, but who knows what may be important. 2002 4.7, bought it used from my father-in-law who bought it new. He takes good care of things and mostly has a shop do his work. 107K miles. Timing belt has been replaced. I'd have to go look at the sticker to be sure, but I think at 97K.

Ran great for several months and a couple of thousand miles. Then threw a check engine light. I had it read and the guy said it was evap, cleared it, tightened the gas cap. Code went away. Another month or so it did it again, same thing. I replaced the gas cap with a new one, but started to worry it might be something worse.

A few weeks went by. Suddenly out of nowhere it started missing badly and the light started flashing. Drove it home very carefully. Bought a reader. Codes showed missing on 5&7. Swapped the coils with 1 & 3. No change. Bought two spark plugs and a can of seafoam (parts store guy idea). Put the seafoam in and started it to see if it would help any. Missed a little for a few seconds, then smoothed out and ran perfectly... but I was suspicious. Let it idle for a few minutes then took it for a test drive. Started missing badly after about a mile, brought it home.

Replaced the two spark plugs on 5 & 7 (probably should have done them all and will tomorrow or Friday), numbered all the packs and swapped them all. Started up and ran great. Test drove it about two miles, ran great.

Next morning it wouldn't start at all (temps in the 30s). No codes.

Thought maybe it was water or ice in the fuel, but wife mentioned it smelled of gas when trying to start it. Opened the hood... two items on the right of the throttle body, TPS and maybe IAC??? One of them is buzzing. (btw, my throttle body and these items look nothing like the images I see online of them) Disconnect either of them and the buzzing stops until next attempt to start. Did a bunch of reading and decided to check the butterfly. Filthy. Cleaned that all out. Buzzing gone. Started right up (50 degrees) ran great. Let it idle for half an hour. Running great. Test drove it... 1 mile it stalled and would not restart. Towed it home. Tried it out of curiosity when I got home-- engine cold by then, it started and ran rough for about a minute then died. p1300 only code.

Read about 20 threads on this forum and a bunch elsewhere... Found reference to this: P1300.htm of alflash.com.ua (Can't post a link on first post...) Great stuff. Step 1 (spark etc.) checked out fine. Step 2 is giving me some trouble... I can easily imagine a faulty/intermittent igniter causing this, or wiring, or ecm.....

But, I don't know where to find them. I've been looking for them and googling for them, and all I can see is a bunch of wire harness running along the firewall and vanishing at the back of the engine. Does it run back above the transmission? Around the firewall and up under the relay block and evap canister? Through the firewall and up under the dash somewhere?

A million thanks to anyone who can shed any light at all on any of this. I'm stumped.
 

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I just thought I'd update this in case further info helps, or in case someone else has a similar problem.

I replaced all the spark plugs with NGK.
I replaced the fuel filter
I cleaned the MAS

I've also looked at about a thousand manual pages, videos, and pictures.

I've come to the conclusion that the buzzing is probably coming from the throttle control motor.
I haven't seen the 1300 again, nor have I seen any references or indications as to where to find the ignitor or if it even exists.

The only codes I'm getting now are for misfires, sometimes random, sometimes a particular cylinder, no particular pattern to that. However, I've noticed that it does not misfire when the engine is cold. The best I can tell the pattern is that it starts very well when cold, idles fine, very smooth. Drives well. Then, when the engine comes up to temp and it drops off of high idle it stumbles, dies, and will not restart. If it were my old Mustang I'd figure the choke was stuck.

I mention above that none of the pictures I'm seeing look like my truck. I did find one that does: 2001 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Theory & Operation at the bottom of the first page.
 

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Additional update in case anyone cares or uses this for reference.
I checked the resistance on the cam sensor on the driver's side (where all the misfire codes were) it was in range.
Last few times I tried to start it, it would crank but not fire.
Checked spark on multiple plugs, all good.
Sprayed propane into the intake, and it would hit and fire a few times then quit. Decided probably fuel related.
Checked resistance on several fuel injectors (not all of them yet) and they looked good.
Checked fuel pressure, 38 pounds exactly what the book says it should be.
Got a NOID light and checked all 8 connectors, all show light pulses. (Had a hard time getting them off, finally figured out a pair of needle nose pliers at 12 and 6 o'clock positions on the connector pulls them right off.)

So, it has fuel pressure, spark, pulse to the injectors. My best guesses at this point are injectors not firing even though they have a pulse, or so badly plugged up no fuel is getting through. I guess timing could be a possibility too.

I'm debating between taking the injectors out and inspecting them vs. giving up and having it towed to a Toyota dealer. Given my past experience with their prices, I'd guess the truck is totaled if I go that route.

Any suggestions from anyone would be welcome.
 

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Cant help you with your problem but there was a thread on here about someone having lots of problems and it turned out to be the injectors. See post #4 below.

 

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Cant help you with your problem but there was a thread on here about someone having lots of problems and it turned out to be the injectors. See post #4 below.

Thanks. I guess next step is to pull the injectors off.... Too cold for it today, but as soon as it warms up a bit I'll try that.
 

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I thought I'd post a follow-up to this in case it helps anyone else. I'm not completely sure I have the Tundra fixed even now, but it is at least much more drive-able.

I chickened out on pulling the injectors when I saw what a production it is (everything on this motor is a production, clearly it was never designed to be maintained or repaired) and took it to a local repair shop. He did a bunch of tests with equipment I don't have and came to the conclusion that there were at least two problems. Problem 1: intermittent fuel injection relay. This was the really insidious one. It worked sometimes which is part of why I was chasing gremlins. Problem 2: Bad gas.

His cost to properly fix all of that was more than the truck is worth and he did not guarantee that would fix it. I paid him to leave the new relay in and had it towed home. My brother and I drained all of the gas from the tank by taking the fuel line off at the filter and running the pump by tapping in at the wires under the panel next to the driver's seat.

When I put new fuel in it started but still missed and threw all the same codes it had been throwing right along. I was not surprised at this since I figured there was probably some water and possibly other crud in the fuel lines or the injector rails. I put a gallon of high test gas in it and added some HEET again. Ran that through and it ran better. Did it a second time, a little better still. Then I ran a gallon through with Lucas injector cleaner in it, figuring it wouldn't hurt and it might help. Things smoothed out further. Put a full tank of high test in it and have been tentatively driving it further and further each time, have used about a quarter of a tank and am back to the codes for evap system problem.

I'm still not sure it is fixed, but it is drive-able and I suggest anyone else in this situation look to intermittent problems and multiple problems.

FWIW.
 

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Glad to see you come back and post up some conclusions and like you said, maybe help someone else in the future. Really surprised to hear you got bad gas. Havent heard of that in years. Was it an indy station where you got the gas or a chain? Any chance you can push them to eat some of the cost of the repairs?
 

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Unfortunately it took me so long to find out that bad gas was involved that I couldn't remember let alone prove where I bought it. I'm now back to where I was at the very beginning where I need to fix the trailer hitch and figure out why it is giving an evap system warning. I'm 99% sure the trailer hitch had nothing to do with this, but I guess there is a small chance the evap system thing is a contributing factor in some way, or springs from the same causes...
 

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What codes are you getting for the evap system?
 

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Type that specific code into the search box here on the website. I picked this thread first because it had the most responses. Read it all but post #9 onward seems like it could be the most helpful in your case. And I know this thread is for a Sequoia but besides maybe the location, part should be damn near identical.Even if this thread doesnt help, start looking at the other ones too, good chance one of these will help you out. And if it does, post back your results to maybe help someone else in the future.

 

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Check all those EVAP hoses on the left fender well, very common to have leaks there. Dont put any additives in your engine, it's just making money for the corporations. Take it out in second gear and rev the F out of it. (It's like if you want to clean some engine parts, would you use gas or some additive you have sitting on your shelf)
 
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