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At 56,000 miles, my brakes have just started to develop a pulsating sensation during relatively hard braking, like when approaching a red light at 45-60 mph.

Is this likely to get worse over time (further warp rotors) or can I continue to drive for awhile considering that I rarely do this type of driving? If it is just a mild annoyance I can live with it, but if it is likely to gradually get worse and cost me more in the long run I will have it repaired. Thanks to those who can offer any insight or experience with this problem.
 

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You should check with a local shop to see how much it would cost to have them turned. Otherwise you should get new rotors.
 

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At 56,000 miles, my brakes have just started to develop a pulsating sensation during relatively hard braking, like when approaching a red light at 45-60 mph.

Is this likely to get worse over time (further warp rotors) or can I continue to drive for awhile considering that I rarely do this type of driving? If it is just a mild annoyance I can live with it, but if it is likely to gradually get worse and cost me more in the long run I will have it repaired. Thanks to those who can offer any insight or experience with this problem.
yeah toyota has yet to engineer a good braking system...
 

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Warping rotors on a Tundra is always a possibility. It is a big truck and really the braking system is not great at all. Switch to better rotors/pads in the future. Hawk makes good pads, and maybe brembo blanks for rotors.
 

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+1 on the Hawk recommendation. They make a great pad. I put a set on both my wife's Escape and on my DC. The hawk number for your 02 is HB314F665. I have a long way to go before my rotors wear out, but the Power Slot Cryo rotor is an interesting alternative. Good review on several websites.
 

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Yup, it'll get worse. Turn them, replace them, whatever, but be sure to read the whitepapers at Stoptech.com, they make the BBK and have some excellent information regarding care and feeding of your braking system.

-Sean
 

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if there is enough meat on them to turn, that will be your best bet. the min spec for those rotors are 1.024 in. forget what the mm that converts to. if after turning them and they are below 1.024 in, they will still pulsate due to not dissipating the heat properly. i believe on the average pass to turn rotors are .008. but will pulsation, you will have to take more off.
 

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I actually talked to a service rep at a local dealership re: this issue just today. He told me that much of the issue was with the way inexperienced drivers were braking while driving a large truck.

Although that is a good possibility (I am a former Army 64C) the issue probably lies with the equipment too. He also said that quite a bit of the issue was related to the back brakes not being maintained well.

He said that the back brakes were failing and the fronts were bearing the difference and wearing out considerably faster than normal. So there may be some truth to this as well.

I am having the front ball joints done on my truck in the next week or so,
and I am having the brakes looked at too, just for that reason.

Take care,

Les
 

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...He also said that quite a bit of the issue was related to the back brakes not being maintained well.
true. i adjust my rear brakes every time i rotate my tires. which is every other oil change. i like the rears to be very snug so my fronts don't do all the work.
 

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Have fronts and rears checked for run-out since my brakes were pulsating and turned out the back brakes were causing it. I had a very good feeling it was the rears since i recently had the fronts replaced and a run-out gauge proved it. You probably do have warped rotors but you gotta know for sure. I also recommend rear brakes getting adjusted every 5-8K. I jack up the wheel and spin it while tightening the adjuster just till they start making contact. Then take it for a ride and see where it is. After you know what properly adjusted rears "feel" like though regular braking and by how much the parking brake needs to pushed down, you can tell when they need adjusting again.
 

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At 56,000 miles, my brakes have just started to develop a pulsating sensation during relatively hard braking, like when approaching a red light at 45-60 mph.

Is this likely to get worse over time (further warp rotors) or can I continue to drive for awhile considering that I rarely do this type of driving? If it is just a mild annoyance I can live with it, but if it is likely to gradually get worse and cost me more in the long run I will have it repaired. Thanks to those who can offer any insight or experience with this problem.

Get the new revised tsb 03 up caliper's Toyota is well knowen to have early Brakes issues on the 00 - 02 It's that bad I would avoid those model year's to Buy Been there done that No thanks not going that route again....

Erik
 

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I have about the same mileage. I started getting a little bit of a grinding nvh in the pads with what seemed reduced braking performance. I had some pad life left, but lets face it the pads were 6 years old.

Assuming you have not replaced the front pads before, I doubt you are a heavy braker so I doubt you have warped rotors. I also doubt your back brakes are bad, probably just dusty. I would just replace the pads and clean off the back brakes. I bet it clears up your problem. That is what I did and also flushed the brake fluid. Made a world of difference for me.

If the above assumption is correct and you have the old style pads, then this place has a good deal on them. They were not big on communication, but I did get them at a good price (scroll to the bottom of the page):
genuine toyota accessories at discount prices
 

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Though the rotors may be the problem, they should be checked for run out with a dial indicator first. It's senseless to just resurface them and see what happened.
If you do resurface they should be turned on the car, not on a bench lathe.
If your going back to the dealer have them check the front calipers and see if they have been updated. If not press them to do it at no charge. Some have gotten their dealer to do the upgrade way after their trucks were out of the mileage limitation. If they refuse and want to charge, don't pay the dealer's price. This job can easily be done for much less. http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/brakes/65633-upgrade-your-early-tundra-brakes-1-a/
But most likely your shutter is coming from the rear. There is a TSB on this that really doesn't cover all the issue, but it does check for axle hub problems and a heaver drum.
Other issue are the paper shims between the hub and drum that can get torn and stacked causing the drum to sit crooked on the axle. Then ther is the periodic over adjusting which can warp the lighter drums in a heartbeat.
The Tundra brake system is not a bad system, but does have it's limitations.
Mike
 
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