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My 02 Tundra has 278,000 miles on it. I have take very good care of the old girl and she has taken care of me. I was pulling my 24' camper a while back and she started running very warm. After just driving around town, it was fine until I ran into stop and go traffic. I have never had this issue in the past. It was time for a timing belt change anyway, so I had a good mechanic shop install the new timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and radiator. I usually work on my vehicles, but do to not having the time, I opted for them to do the work and I knew them prior. When I got the truck back a few days later it started heating up in stop and go traffic. I installed a OEM clutch fan. The truck did better and even sounded better. I pulled a tractor the other day and it started to heat up again. I pull with the overdrive button pushed I and never had an issue until now. This is driving me crazy. has anyone had this issue?
 

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My 02 Tundra has 278,000 miles on it. I have take very good care of the old girl and she has taken care of me. I was pulling my 24' camper a while back and she started running very warm. After just driving around town, it was fine until I ran into stop and go traffic. I have never had this issue in the past. It was time for a timing belt change anyway, so I had a good mechanic shop install the new timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and radiator. I usually work on my vehicles, but do to not having the time, I opted for them to do the work and I knew them prior. When I got the truck back a few days later it started heating up in stop and go traffic. I installed a OEM clutch fan. The truck did better and even sounded better. I pulled a tractor the other day and it started to heat up again. I pull with the overdrive button pushed I and never had an issue until now. This is driving me crazy. has anyone had this issue?
update: I ran across town today and it was hot outside and in stop and go traffic the niddle went about 3/4 of the way up. When I got home I checked the antifreeze and the reservoir was full.
 

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Hey buddy,
Sorry to hear about your cooling system issues.

If you haven’t gotten it fixed by now, I would like to make one recommendation.

I am of the mindset that unless you can pinpoint the exact problem, you should work from least- to most expensive repairs, and seeing as how you have already replaced many of the central elements of your cooling system, have you thought about replacing your coolant temperature sensor? From a quick Google search, they appear to be $8-15 (non-OEM) and would certainly be an easy repair for an experienced mechanic like yourself. Note that with a new sensor, the gauge calibration for high/low might be slightly different (I don’t know if this is true, just a thought).

Never experienced this personally as my ‘00 4.7 Tundra has only 77,000 miles.
 

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Lots of parallels here.

02 Access Cab, 4.7L 2WD, 132k. Never had an issue with overheating. Changed the timing belt (myself) back in April, along with the water pump and serpentine belt, and two gallons of pink Toyota coolant. Did not change the thermostat, because... no excuse.

Started running hot last month; like yours, the needle would drop once I was moving and air was flowing through the grill, but temp would spike when stopped. I was losing coolant, but the only 'wet spot' was at the engine / transmission junction.

Decided to change the thermostat and the coolant sensor (like the man said, start with the cheapest fixes). Figured that the coolant in the radiator was fine but the coolant in the block was not circulating and therefore the engine was overheating.

Bingo. 20 minute job, fresh anti- freeze and everything is back to normal.

The gasket on the old thermostat was completely toast.


IMG_20190831_143827.jpg

IMG_20190831_143817.jpg


I hope the simple fix works for you as well!

(And, JRBOO: are you my cousin in DC???)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey buddy,
Sorry to hear about your cooling system issues.

If you haven’t gotten it fixed by now, I would like to make one recommendation.

I am of the mindset that unless you can pinpoint the exact problem, you should work from least- to most expensive repairs, and seeing as how you have already replaced many of the central elements of your cooling system, have you thought about replacing your coolant temperature sensor? From a quick Google search, they appear to be $8-15 (non-OEM) and would certainly be an easy repair for an experienced mechanic like yourself. Note that with a new sensor, the gauge calibration for high/low might be slightly different (I don’t know if this is true, just a thought).

Never experienced this personally as my ‘00 4.7 Tundra has only 77,000 miles.
Hey buddy,
Sorry to hear about your cooling system issues.

If you haven’t gotten it fixed by now, I would like to make one recommendation.

I am of the mindset that unless you can pinpoint the exact problem, you should work from least- to most expensive repairs, and seeing as how you have already replaced many of the central elements of your cooling system, have you thought about replacing your coolant temperature sensor? From a quick Google search, they appear to be $8-15 (non-OEM) and would certainly be an easy repair for an experienced mechanic like yourself. Note that with a new sensor, the gauge calibration for high/low might be slightly different (I don’t know if this is true, just a thought).

Never experienced this personally as my ‘00 4.7 Tundra has only 77,000 miles.
Thanks man, I actually thought of that today. I am going to order one this evening. I could not find anything or anyone that has ever heard of this issue. I hated changing all the parts, but it needed them. It has 284,000 miles on it now and I have never changed the timing belt, water pump, ect… It was due, should I say. The only bad issue that I have ever had with it other than small stuff here and there, O2 sensors and two coil packs went bad. I will certainly get back with an update. Thanks again.
 

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Roystundra, I just updated my similar thread from earlier this year. Check it out.
 

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Roystundra, I just updated my similar thread from earlier this year. Check it out.
Thanks kamperBob, I read your thread and you had some of the same issues. jrboo and myself were discussing in this this thread, that with all the changes I have made my problem might be the Coolant temp sensor, to no avail I installed an OEM sensor yesterday morning and went for about a 15 mile drive. In stop and go traffic the gauge starting climbing again. I read somewhere that while at a red light, put the truck in neutral and it will help, so I did and when I started going again the temp would start coming down. It seems to do fine while just driving, but temp starts to climb when I am in stop and go traffic or pulling a load. (note) It started doing this behaver before I changed all the parts.
 

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Sorry to bend this topic but I'd like to hear more about your coil pack failures, Roystundra. I had to replace one back at 203k miles. The failure mode was clear and obvious. It ran fine when turned off the night before, but the following morning one cylinder was missing. It also wasn't difficult to unplug one cylinder at a time and restart to pinpoint the culprit. Then replace and viola, good as ever.

That being said, "as ever" includes an ignition tick noise until warmed up to normal operating temp. When I engine brake for several miles that cools it enough the tick returns briefly. Only under load, so I can't listen for it with a stethoscope to pinpoint which cylinder. And only for a several seconds until back to normal operating temp. I suspect another coil pa k may be the culprit. But it doesn't adversely effect performance. So I've been waiting for it to fail to make it obvious which cylinder. But it's been doing this for years and many miles. LOL

So my cylinder that failed was passenger side rear, by the firewall. Roystundra, do you recall which cylinders on yours had failed coil packs? What were the symptoms? Did you diagnose/repair yourself or outsource? Thanks in advance!!
 

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Sorry to bend this topic but I'd like to hear more about your coil pack failures, Roystundra. I had to replace one back at 203k miles. The failure mode was clear and obvious. It ran fine when turned off the night before, but the following morning one cylinder was missing. It also wasn't difficult to unplug one cylinder at a time and restart to pinpoint the culprit. Then replace and viola, good as ever.

That being said, "as ever" includes an ignition tick noise until warmed up to normal operating temp. When I engine brake for several miles that cools it enough the tick returns briefly. Only under load, so I can't listen for it with a stethoscope to pinpoint which cylinder. And only for a several seconds until back to normal operating temp. I suspect another coil pa k may be the culprit. But it doesn't adversely effect performance. So I've been waiting for it to fail to make it obvious which cylinder. But it's been doing this for years and many miles. LOL

So my cylinder that failed was passenger side rear, by the firewall. Roystundra, do you recall which cylinders on yours had failed coil packs? What were the symptoms? Did you diagnose/repair yourself or outsource? Thanks in advance!!
Kamperbob, I actually can't remember which side they were on. I went ahead and changed all of them because the mileage I have. I have the same ticking sound, it's a 1st gen Tundra trait. When I first heard it about 10 years ago, a Toyota mechanic told me that it is a crack in the header and run it and it will be fine, so I did and never have had an issue with it. It makes since though, because when the header warms up it swells and seals the crack. I can tell another ticking that sounds like a rocker arm or something just before an oil change, kinda like it's low on oil. I have never had the valves adjusted. That would probably help the other ticking noise. I have to bend back just a second. I thought about something last night. Before all of this over heating issue, I had a crack in my radiator. I bought an after market one on Amazon about two or three weeks prior to the issue. It seemed to do fine, well I didn't notice it getting warm because I didn't drive it that much. I didn't notice it heating up until I was coming back pulling my camper. Do you think the radiator might be the issue.
 

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Roystundra, I'm no expert but IMHO that's certainly possible. Anything that reduces coolant flow or possibly less efficient fin design could reduce cooling capacity. My stock radiator had a leak in the bottom cap seam. The replacement brand was Spectra IIRC. Also, upstream of the radiator is the AC condenser and AT cooler. I experimented with moving my AT cooler down, which didn't seem to change coolant temp any, but that did improve AC effectiveness. Mine's due for some TLC to straighten fins that bugs & other road debris has done some minor bending here and there over time. I also moved both horns completely out of the airflow path BTW. Good luck!
 

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Oh, and that manifold crack theory holds a lot of water. Mine's ticked cool for years but never seemed to get worse and shushes as soon as it returns to normal operating temp, so I haven't worried about it either. Maybe I dodn't need a second coil pack after all! ;)
 

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I think I am going to buy a 100% aluminum radiator 3 core. Back in my racecar days we ran 4 core and never had a problem. It's actually cheaper than an OEM and should perform a lot better.
 

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Is the oem rad really that expensive? Seen a few times on here guys got them at a fairly decent price on line. Maybe getting an oem rad and NOT paying through the nose via the dealer is an option. Here's one thread about it that also has part numbers and prices.

 

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If you do, Roystndra, please report back on that radiator mod. While mine's still getting the job done, it'd be nice to have an option in pocket to roll with more impunity in some situations! ;)
[/QUOTE
The new radiator will come in Monday sometime and I will get back on here for sure.
 
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