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my a/c is blowing hot air and the a/c light is blinking. I've been reading around and found that if I either tap the MG CLT relay or replace it I could fix the problem... but I cannot find it. I have found the relay and fuse center, but nothing with MG CLT or -02022 on it... can anyone help me? thanks so much!
 

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my a/c is blowing hot air and the a/c light is blinking. I've been reading around and found that if I either tap the MG CLT relay or replace it I could fix the problem... but I cannot find it. I have found the relay and fuse center, but nothing with MG CLT or -02022 on it... can anyone help me? thanks so much!
Check the ground bolt on top of the compressor. There is a wiring harness there that is held in place by a ground bolt. If this bolt is loose or missing it will short out and your AC light will blink and the air will come on and off intermittently.
 

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thanks, I will check that today. I've read on some other posts that it could be the MG CLT RELAY, but I cannot find anything that says that in my relay & fuse box under the hood next to the battery.... I put freon in it because of a recommendation by a friend and sure hope I didn't make matters worse!
 

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Check the ground bolt on top of the compressor. There is a wiring harness there that is held in place by a ground bolt. If this bolt is loose or missing it will short out and your AC light will blink and the air will come on and off intermittently.
This be true. The guy that did my timing belt didn't replace that little bolt. My A/C light started blinking, and I happened to look and find that bolt was missing.
 

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Does someone have a picture showing where the A/C compressor and this bolt can be found? And this relay? My A/C light started blinking today as well just in time for our record-breaking heat wave. I did have the timing belt replaced around 7,000kms ago... Help is appreciated!!
 

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Does someone have a picture showing where the A/C compressor and this bolt can be found? And this relay? My A/C light started blinking today as well just in time for our record-breaking heat wave. I did have the timing belt replaced around 7,000kms ago... Help is appreciated!!
Stand in front of truck with hood open. Compressor is located on right side of engine. Look down and you will see it. Follow the refrigerant lines if you have to to help you find it.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/04-06-Tundra/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/06tundra/ac/camc2uzf/comp.pdf

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/04-06-Tundra/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/06tundra/ac/camc2uzf/ovi.pdf

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/04-06-Tundra/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/06tundra/ac/trou/pst.pdf

Here's some blurry pics of mine. First one is of it arcing at night which is how I figured out what was wrong with it. Second one is of he wiring harness. Just reach in there (with the engine OFF) and feel around and you will be able to tell if the harness is loose.
 

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If you have sparks then you have a loose ground connection. Easy fix. Parts are cheap but you will need small hands and the patience of a saint to get that bolt in there. Hell, if I did it anyone can.

Yes, where the belt loops around there is the compressor.

Good luck.
 

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Hey guys. I've got an 05 with a 4.0 6 cylinder. AC worked fine up until I stopped using it last year. This year when I went to fire it up the light comes on, and the clutch engauges and the air starts to cool for about 8 seconds. Then it kicks off and the light blinks. The pressure checks out as called for. I took it to a local garage and they tried a new relay. Nothing. Then they said they were trying a switch(I'm assuming low pressure) apparently(if they actually tried it) no go. Now they want to sell me a compressor for a $1000. I had a friend tell me about this loose ground, do you suppose that could be what I've got going on? Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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So I've talked with the Mechanic more now. He checked pressure(was appropriate), jumpered high switch(didn't say about low pressure switch, is it still a good idea to jump that if you know the pressure is correct?). He said he's not getting the proper reading on what I think he said was an rpm sensor which I guess is a part of the compressor and he said he cannot find to order individually. Hence his reccomendation to order a new compressor which will include a new rpm sensor. He said if for a peice of mind, I could go to a dealer and have them read the codes that he doesn't have access to, and they should be able to confirm that he is in fact correct. Thanks again for any help.
 

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I think but can not confirm that your mechanic is blowing smoke up your skirt.
The compressor according to my 06 service manual only has a lock up sensor and the typical magnetic clutch on board.
I would suggest a second opinion elsewhere.
 

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I am not a fan of just throwing money and parts at a problem before you actually know what the malfunction is.
 

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Stand in front of truck with hood open. Compressor is located on right side of engine. Look down and you will see it. Follow the refrigerant lines if you have to to help you find it.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/04-06-Tundra/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/06tundra/ac/camc2uzf/comp.pdf

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/04-06-Tundra/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/06tundra/ac/camc2uzf/ovi.pdf

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/04-06-Tundra/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/06tundra/ac/trou/pst.pdf

Thanks for these links. Would these also apply to my 05' Reg. cab with the 4.0 six cylinder? As per the second link. I did the jumper test(11.) And Ohm reading(12.) on the compressor lock sensor. 106 was what mine read which is in between the 65-125 they call for. When I jumped it my compressor came on stayed on and cooled like it's supposed to. Any other ideas/thoughts?
 

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Ever the explorer
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Well it sounds to me that the compressor is good and must have freon if its cooling good.
Sounds like a possible pressure switch or wiring connector problem to me at this point. but you must have pwr to one side of the lock sensor to be able to jump it. so this narrows things down. makes me wonder out loud if the lock sensor is bad. but you ohmed it and it tested ok.
have you grounded the compressor to the frame and battery?
weird but you are narrowing it down.
 

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So, after much diagnosing, I(we) determined my compressor lock sensor was bad. Since you can't buy just the sensor for this model. I found a used comp. for $70. My question is, could I just swap out the sensor's to save some effort? Has anyone ever tried this? Do I need to evacuate the system just to swap sensors?
 

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Ever the explorer
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I just went back and looked at the service manual. It also says replace compressor if the ohm/resistance reading between terminals 1 & 2 are not inside the 65-125. Which again brings up that you tested it and it was 106.

So looks like replace compressor time. you have tried a better ground?
 

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Yeah, checked the ground(was a ***** to get at, but I got it). I've got a shop that will evacuate the system for me so I can then swap compressors, then he'll refill my cold juice. Got my fingers crossed that takes care of it. Any words of the wise on swapping that. I put some penetrating fluid on what I thought needed it today, looks pretty staight forward so long as I can get my tensioner pully "locked out". Where those refrigerant lines come into the compressor, it says not to reuse the o-rings, are those toyota specific or can I use one's from my o-ring kit(has a good assortment of standard/metric)?
 
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