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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm replacing the wheel cylinders and shoes on my 2004 Tundra (2WD V8) and I'm confused by the parking brake mechanism. Not only does it not adjust once I put the spring back in place, but my brakes don't match images I've found online nor does it match the dealer's diagram. However, the dealer did confirm I have the correct part number. Here's a pic of my setup. The adjuster lever is mounted to the back side of the rear shoe opposite the parking brake lever. It will not advance the star wheel when I pull on the brake cable. My parking brake has never actually worked amd I'm wondering if it's because I have the wrong part. I don't see how it could work the way it is. The end of the adjuster is jammed up against the shoe, so how is the lever supposed to move? Here are a couple pics. Driver and passenger side shown (sorry if this confuses things).



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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Found a couple videos online that showed the same setup. Guess I don't understand how it actually adjusts. My parking brake doesn't hold auto adjust. I replaced the bell cranks a few years ago so I believe they are fine. I'll have to check the cable again. Still confused by the discrepancy in the parts diagram.
 

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Mark the star wheel and set the parking brake tight with your foot at the pedal. Pulling on the cable behind the drum, it’s very difficult to get the star adjuster to spin. It takes a lot of force to get the adjustment arm to move enough to spin the star.

Now about your parking brake never working. Did you buy your truck used? If so, how long ago? The problem with this setup is that it assumes people are smart enough to use their parking brake. It will only adjust, at most, one click of the star wheel every time you push the parking brake pedal. And that’s only when it needs adjustment. People own these trucks for years and years and never set the parking brake. The problem is that they still wear down the shoes while driving but they never adjust because people won’t set the brake. They just throw it in park and call it good.

Mine was a little soft when I bought the truck almost 6 years ago. But I use the parking brake religiously. If the truck feels like it will roll at all, I set the brake. My wife does the same. So mine is always in perfect adjustment. But it can take several dozen times of setting that brake to get them in adjustment once one had gotten so far out from almost 2 decades of a previous owner not using it.

With new shoes, or every time you have the drum off really. You will need to set the brake over and over again, probably 20 times or so, to get the adjustment where it needs to be.


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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Mark the star wheel and set the parking brake tight with your foot at the pedal. Pulling on the cable behind the drum, it’s very difficult to get the star adjuster to spin. It takes a lot of force to get the adjustment arm to move enough to spin the star.

Now about your parking brake never working. Did you buy your truck used? If so, how long ago? The problem with this setup is that it assumes people are smart enough to use their parking brake. It will only adjust, at most, one click of the star wheel every time you push the parking brake pedal. And that’s only when it needs adjustment. People own these trucks for years and years and never set the parking brake. The problem is that they still wear down the shoes while driving but they never adjust because people won’t set the brake. They just throw it in park and call it good.

Mine was a little soft when I bought the truck almost 6 years ago. But I use the parking brake religiously. If the truck feels like it will roll at all, I set the brake. My wife does the same. So mine is always in perfect adjustment. But it can take several dozen times of setting that brake to get them in adjustment once one had gotten so far out from almost 2 decades of a previous owner not using it.

With new shoes, or every time you have the drum off really. You will need to set the brake over and over again, probably 20 times or so, to get the adjustment where it needs to be.


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I've owned the truck since 2006 and have always used the parking brake. It has just never felt as tight as I thought it should. I've been able to adjust it enough to hold on a slight decline. I'll just have to open things up again and adjust. It occurred to me last night that I didn't adjust the slack out of the cable after putting the new shoes on. Also, the drums are original and have a bit of wear (they are still in spec though) so it's probably better to adjust the shoes with the drums on, correct?

Is this a good approach?

With drum installed and parking brake disengaged, adjust star wheel until I hear a slight drag from the shoes.

Pull gently on parking brake bell crank to take up slack in small internal cable and set the bell crank set screw to the spec'd clearance.

Engage parking brake and test effectiveness (ie will it hold the truck on a slight decline).

Adjust parking brake as necessary by adjusting the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also confused by the manual saying to fully depress the parking brake pedal then to pull the drum and measure the shoe clearance. How is there going to be any clearance if the parking brake is engaged???
 

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I've owned the truck since 2006 and have always used the parking brake. It has just never felt as tight as I thought it should. I've been able to adjust it enough to hold on a slight decline. I'll just have to open things up again and adjust. It occurred to me last night that I didn't adjust the slack out of the cable after putting the new shoes on. Also, the drums are original and have a bit of wear (they are still in spec though) so it's probably better to adjust the shoes with the drums on, correct?

Is this a good approach?

With drum installed and parking brake disengaged, adjust star wheel until I hear a slight drag from the shoes.

Pull gently on parking brake bell crank to take up slack in small internal cable and set the bell crank set screw to the spec'd clearance.

Engage parking brake and test effectiveness (ie will it hold the truck on a slight decline).

Adjust parking brake as necessary by adjusting the cable.
Yeah I would try to adjust the slack out of the cable for sure. When the cable is adjusted properly, you should be able to hear the star adjusters click when you set the brake every time until they are at proper adjustment. Weird that you’ve had the truck 15 years and it’s never worked right. I would think that would almost have to be a cable adjustment issue.

As far as manually adjusting the star, that is what I would do, yes. But when I did mine, I took an angle grinder with a flapper wheel and knocked down the lip on the back side of the drum that was caused by the shoes wearing in. I then tightened the adjuster until I could not put the drum on. Then I backed it out about 2 clicks at a time until I could just barely get the drum on. I then let the adjuster do the rest.

Another thing. Are your drums glazed over? If they are, all the perfect adjustment in the world won’t make your parking brake work. My axle seals were leaking. That was the whole reason for replacing my brakes in the first place. Got it all done, still no parking brake. I had to get the drums turned to get brakes back because the drums were glazed over


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And just knowing from experience with my Tundra. When your parking brake is finally working correctly, it will hold your truck plus a good sized trailer on a fairly steep incline with the truck in neutral. They work very well when everything is in adjustment


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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I would try to adjust the slack out of the cable for sure. When the cable is adjusted properly, you should be able to hear the star adjusters click when you set the brake every time until they are at proper adjustment. Weird that you’ve had the truck 15 years and it’s never worked right. I would think that would almost have to be a cable adjustment issue.

As far as manually adjusting the star, that is what I would do, yes. But when I did mine, I took an angle grinder with a flapper wheel and knocked down the lip on the back side of the drum that was caused by the shoes wearing in. I then tightened the adjuster until I could not put the drum on. Then I backed it out about 2 clicks at a time until I could just barely get the drum on. I then let the adjuster do the rest.

Another thing. Are your drums glazed over? If they are, all the perfect adjustment in the world won’t make your parking brake work. My axle seals were leaking. That was the whole reason for replacing my brakes in the first place. Got it all done, still no parking brake. I had to get the drums turned to get brakes back because the drums were glazed over


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Let me rephrase. I've been able to adjust the brake to the point where it will hold, but it's never felt tight enough.
As far as the drums being glazed, I'm not sure. They are really shiny from the shoes rubbing against them, which I would expect. The diameter is well within spec. Maybe I'll just go ahead and replace them.
 

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Let me rephrase. I've been able to adjust the brake to the point where it will hold, but it's never felt tight enough.
As far as the drums being glazed, I'm not sure. They are really shiny from the shoes rubbing against them, which I would expect. The diameter is well within spec. Maybe I'll just go ahead and replace them.
Does the pedal feel tight? When mine is working good, I don’t think I can push the pedal all the way to the floor because it’s that tight. You might be able to look up what a glazed rotor/drum looks like. Being shiny is fine, but if it feels really slick to your finger, your drums could be glazed. It’s possible the previous owner left the brake on and drove around a couple times and just overheated the drums. It only takes once or twice with enough heat or oil getting in there to glaze them over.


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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I just disconnected the parking brake cable and put a bunch of slack in it (via the adjuster under the drivers side and at the pedal) pulled the drums, retracted the star wheel adjuster fully, adjusted the bell cranks, put the drums back on, adjusted the star wheels through the access hole until I heard a dragging sound, reconnected the parking brake cables to the bell cranks, and the parking brake goes to the floor and doesn't hold the vehicle. I've pumped it about 30 times amd do not hear any clicking at the rear wheels. The brake pedal also goes closer to the floor than usual. The dragging sound occurs only in a certain spot on each side, so I guess that means I have warped drums? Even if I do, I feel like everything should be working now, but it isn't even close.

With the parking brake engaged, how far off is the back plate should the bell cranks be? I remember last time I went through this (years ago), I had to tighten the parking cable a bunch such that the bell cranks were pulled off the back plates by up to an inch with the parking brake off just to get it to engage when engaged. This can't be normal. Shouldn't the bell cranks be in their resting positions when the parking brake is disengaged?
Also, the star adjuster mechanisms have maybe 1/4" of thread showing before the drums start to drag. That doesn't seem like nearly enough based on the total thread length available. Maybe it's normal.

Update: I just got through adjusting the cable to the point where the bell cranks starting lifting off the back plates. I feel like it must be the shoes that need further adjustment. Except if they are warped tightening them further is going to cause excessive rubbing and drag. Think I'll just let it sit until the new drums arrive later this week.
 

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If you’ve got slight dragging then I would think your shoes are close enough to the drums.

So the bell cranks are pulled away, meaning you have no slack in the cable? And it still won’t hold the truck? How hard is it to push the parking brake? Like I said with mine, to get mine to the floor it’s so stiff it feels like I’ll break something. But it works great so I go with it. If it’s good and stiff then it would seem the adjustment is tight enough. Maybe new drums will fix it if they’re glazed over. That’s how mine was. Everything was in perfect adjustment but it wouldn’t hold on a little incline. Resurfaced drums and it’s been perfect for about 4 years now.

I hope I’m helping and not just complicating everything


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Discussion Starter #12
If you’ve got slight dragging then I would think your shoes are close enough to the drums.

So the bell cranks are pulled away, meaning you have no slack in the cable? And it still won’t hold the truck? How hard is it to push the parking brake? Like I said with mine, to get mine to the floor it’s so stiff it feels like I’ll break something. But it works great so I go with it. If it’s good and stiff then it would seem the adjustment is tight enough. Maybe new drums will fix it if they’re glazed over. That’s how mine was. Everything was in perfect adjustment but it wouldn’t hold on a little incline. Resurfaced drums and it’s been perfect for about 4 years now.

I hope I’m helping and not just complicating everything


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The drums must be warped since the dragging sound only occurs in one spot. I don't want to adjust the shoes any further because I'm concerned it will be too much. I'll wait for the new rotors.

The adjustment bolts on the cranks are sitting about 1/8" off the back plates with the parking brake disengaged and about 1" when engaged. The pedal goes all the way to the floor and does nothing.
 

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They may be warped then like you’re saying. The bell cranks on mine touch when the brake is off. I took photos for you for reference. The photo of the brake pedal is not nearly to the floor but is the furthers I ever push it unless I have a trailer on the back. But it’s very stiff. So it seems like you’ve got some adjustment to do, but it’s weird that it’s not engaging with all the adjustment you’ve done.

If I had photos of inside my drums I’d send them to you just for reference but I don’t have any








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Discussion Starter #14
They may be warped then like you’re saying. The bell cranks on mine touch when the brake is off. I took photos for you for reference. The photo of the brake pedal is not nearly to the floor but is the furthers I ever push it unless I have a trailer on the back. But it’s very stiff. So it seems like you’ve got some adjustment to do, but it’s weird that it’s not engaging with all the adjustment you’ve done.

If I had photos of inside my drums I’d send them to you just for reference but I don’t have any








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Thanks for posting the pics! Would you be able to take a photo of the bell cranks with the pedal fully engaged?

Sorry if I was confusing, but I meant the brake pedal (not the parking brake pedal) feels like it nearly travels to the floor, which is another reason why I think the shoes need more adjusting. However, since the drums are presumably warped, I don't want to adjust anymore because they I will be wearing down my new shoes. I'll wait until the new drums arrive before doing any further adjustments.
 

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Thanks for posting the pics! Would you be able to take a photo of the bell cranks with the pedal fully engaged?

Sorry if I was confusing, but I meant the brake pedal (not the parking brake pedal) feels like it nearly travels to the floor, which is another reason why I think the shoes need more adjusting. However, since the drums are presumably warped, I don't want to adjust anymore because they I will be wearing down my new shoes. I'll wait until the new drums arrive before doing any further adjustments.
No problem! And yeah, the second and third photos are with the pedal as tight as I could push it. The fourth and fifth photos are with slack on the cables (not pushed at all) they’re really not that far off of the backing plates when the pedal is depressed as far as I can push it. And yeah I would bet you’re right. When they’re out of adjustment your brake pedal feel will suffer a lot. Hopefully when you get your new drums and get more adjustment inside the drum you can get your brake working properly


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Discussion Starter #16
No problem! And yeah, the second and third photos are with the pedal as tight as I could push it. The fourth and fifth photos are with slack on the cables (not pushed at all) they’re really not that far off of the backing plates when the pedal is depressed as far as I can push it. And yeah I would bet you’re right. When they’re out of adjustment your brake pedal feel will suffer a lot. Hopefully when you get your new drums and get more adjustment inside the drum you can get your brake working properly


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Oh, wow. Yeah, mine are like an inch off and still not grabbing.
 

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Oh, wow. Yeah, mine are like an inch off and still not grabbing.
I don’t think I could get either of mine an inch and a half even if I put a pry bar in there so it sounds like you’re right and the inside adjustment is not able to get as tight as it needs to.


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I'm replacing the wheel cylinders and shoes on my 2004 Tundra (2WD V8) and I'm confused by the parking brake mechanism. Not only does it not adjust once I put the spring back in place, but my brakes don't match images I've found online nor does it match the dealer's diagram. However, the dealer did confirm I have the correct part number. Here's a pic of my setup. The adjuster lever is mounted to the back side of the rear shoe opposite the parking brake lever. It will not advance the star wheel when I pull on the brake cable. My parking brake has never actually worked amd I'm wondering if it's because I have the wrong part. I don't see how it could work the way it is. The end of the adjuster is jammed up against the shoe, so how is the lever supposed to move? Here are a couple pics. Driver and passenger side shown (sorry if this confuses things).



View attachment 154649
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The parking brake cable may be rusted mine was rusted and I had to replace it and it can be adjusted at the cable. I have a 2007 Toyota Sequoia
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I don’t think I could get either of mine an inch and a half even if I put a pry bar in there so it sounds like you’re right and the inside adjustment is not able to get as tight as it needs to.


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[/QUOTE
The parking brake cable may be rusted mine was rusted and I had to replace it and it can be adjusted at the cable. I have a 2007 Toyota Sequoia
The cable moves and pulls on the bell cranks. It just doesn't apply enough force to grab the drums. I'll be replacing the drums later this week. Hopefully that will resolve it.
 
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Do you hve a service manual? My Haynes manuals covers 00-06 Tundra. The rear shoe adjuster mechanisms cover the star nut. I'm thinking your parts are not assembled correctly. I just refreshed mine a couple weeks ago. All new shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, bell cranks, even brake lines between T block and each wheel cylinder. Now everything works like it should. It hasn't braked this well in a long time. HTH

(2002 Limited 4WD V8 275k miles)
 
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