[Brad Majors]

Hi Tundra Solutions Nation -
First time caller, long time listener.

I have a 2005 tundra double cab with 240,000 miles, and she's just getting broken in.
I started noticing a vibration and upon doing some research found that it's the center support bearing.

It's less expensive for me to replace the entire drive shaft assembly with you joints and center support bearing, rather than bring it to a shop that will replace the 3U joints and center support bearing, or a shop that will replace the entire driveshaft.

In my research I am running into a consistency issue with the length of the driveshaft. I've had several online vendors assure me it will fit and after ordering one I found it short by about 5 1/2 to 6 inches.

I could order one from a Toyota dealership but that would cost me more than a local shop to install a driveshaft that they order.

Looking for a good and reliable source for driveshafts that's not at the top end of the price range, and also any information on how to determine which driveshafts out there are going to fit.
(I took a measuring tape to mine and it is 88 inches from the back flange to the front U-joint where the yoke attaches).

Thanks in advance!
Ron

 

[ChubbyDBLcb]

What is the price of this if you go OEM? and what is the price if you don't? Are these manufactured?

 

[Brad Majors]

OEM is $1800.
Non is $300 to $500+, and they are all new, non-remanned.

 

[Mr.Bee]

U joints and carrier bearings are ?$30? Each?
So thats $150? (Sorry, i dont know if the DC's have the double cardan, my rear driveshaft has 4 u joints.)

just make sure to mark the shaft so it all goes together in the same orientation it came with. The carrier bearing should have some give, but not be loose and rattley.

 

[Brad Majors]

Mr. Bee -

Thank you for the insight. I feel a single drive shaft would have avoided this, but this is how they come. No complaints as it is a great truck. Mine has the shorter of the two drive shafts in front, attached to the yoke, and the longer one to the rear differential, with U joints between and at either end.

 

[Professional Hand Model]

Yeah. Some people have replaced their OEM Drive Shaft with a one solid piece type Shaft that was custom made. If it were me, I’d replace the shaft with another OEM Style with the Double Cardan.

Going back a rereading your opening post, sounds like the vibration problem you are having is from the Center Support Bearing if I’m understanding properly. That part is easily replaced WITHOUT having to replace any U-Joints. Its a matter of removing 4 bolts at the Double Cardan Flange and 2 Bolts at the Center Support Bearing Bracket. Its about a half day to full days working under the truck in driveway for a diy hack. Shop could do it in 2-3 hours tops.

Internet Research Spicer Center Bearings for more info (instead of buy straight thru Toy) which is the same bearing but 1/3 the price.

Another good thing to do is Grease all 8 (eight) of your 4 (four) U-Joint Zerks. If its been a while, then it may take some work to get the grease injected. This is suppose to be done every 5-10k miles, but is often overlooked. The front driveshaft on 4wd has 2 more zerks. Internet research pics of Professional Hand Model Grease Zerks for more info.

 

[Professional Hand Model]

 

[Brad Majors]

Hey @Professional Hand Model -
After getting all the insight I'm beginning to wonder if diving in and replacing the entire driveshaft is smart although being a do it yourselfer, I don't know if I have the right tools to replace the U joint and the center carrier bearing.
It would be less expensive for sure but how much more work and time? In a proper garage with a proper lift? But alas, I have neither.

Also, I believe I only have 3 U-joints and none of them have Zirk fittings. I was pretty thorough and checking that. There is play with the center bearing but I don't know how much is normal. I will continue to do more research and be thankful that there's an entire community of people who are familiar with or have walked this path well before me.

 

[Brad Majors]

Mr. Bee -

Thank you for the insight as to the play in the center carrier bearing. I need to figure out how much is too much.

 

[Brad Majors]

Also, it's been recommended I consider getting the driveshaft checked to see if it's balanced so I am researching that option as well. Keep the advice coming please!

 

[Professional Hand Model]

U-Joints replacement aren’t an easy job. Recco a Heavy Service Shop (think big rig truck garage) to do this for you. We have one that can do any drive shaft. Most small garages don’t like to mess with it.

Brand new center bearing movement should be about 1/4”. If yours is older, and the play in the 1/2” or more range, then its time for a new one.

 

[Brad Majors]

@Professional Hand Model - This is the only thing I have checked and confirmed so far: there is limited play with the center bearing, so good thing there.
I recall doing U Joints for my Mach I, and it was always a pain in the ass without the right tools.

I noticed something when I took my truck out for a very short drive up the street. Got up to about 35 to 40 miles an hour and started feeling a vibrating sensation. Took my foot off the throttle and the vibration pretty much went away.
Not scientific, and I'll take the truck out for a longer trip tomorrow, but...

Maybe it's not the drive shaft after all?

 

[JAMEC777]

@Professional Hand Model - This is the only thing I have checked and confirmed so far: there is limited play with the center bearing, so good thing there.
I recall doing U Joints for my Mach I, and it was always a pain in the ass without the right tools.

I noticed something when I took my truck out for a very short drive up the street. Got up to about 35 to 40 miles an hour and started feeling a vibrating sensation. Took my foot off the throttle and the vibration pretty much went away.
Not scientific, and I'll take the truck out for a longer trip tomorrow, but...

Maybe it's not the drive shaft after all?

Transmission mount can also cause vibration, I had a vibration in the rear (2 wheel drive)at 70mph, tires needed balanced, no more vibration

 

[cheapskate]

Sort of off topic but if you do end up yanking the drive shaft out you know not to exceed something like 20 degrees of angle right?

 

[Day2Day]

I have a 2006 DC and I replace the carrier bearing and u-joints at a local shop about a year or so ago for under $500. Fixed all the vibrations.

 

[Brad Majors]

Hey @JAMEC777 - the tire balance is the first thing I checked a few weeks ago. But I'm wondering if it's not that transmission or motor mounts. I know the crossmember is an issue with the TSB from more than a decade ago. Thanks for the insight. I'm gonna turn every single stone over until I figure it out.

I'll keep everyone posted.

@cheapskate - not off topic at all. Anything having to do with the drivetrain and the truck is right in Wheelhouse, but I don't plan on doing any lifting at all. No mods whatsoever. Good chance based on the research I'm continuing to do that it's not the driveshaft.

 

[Brad Majors]

I have a 2006 DC and I replace the carrier bearing and u-joints at a local shop about a year or so ago for under $500. Fixed all the vibrations.

I called the shop up the street and they quoted me twice that for the same work. Of course I can call around and will but I'm not sure it's the center carrier bearing now because there's no real play other than the tolerances that are allowed at about a quarter inch.

I'm determined to figure it out. Definitely I'll keep you posted.

 

[Mr.Bee]

Has anyone found one of these pics for a DC? Or a 2wd?

 

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I have a 2006 DC and I replace the carrier bearing and u-joints at a local shop about a year or so ago for under $500. Fixed all the vibrations.

This^^^^^^ Correctly replacing these joints is not rocket science. Other than the CV, this shaft is pretty much a clone to a 1963 Chevy Impala shaft. Any normal competent auto repair shop will be able to do this repair much cheaper than Toyota. The OP could too, if he took his time.