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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 Double Cab, 4WD, LSD rear. 56,xxx miles. Stock.

I noticed a week or so ago that at low speeds, when turning, I get a slight, very brief vibration that seems to come from the back of the truck. It is more noticable on tarmac (I turn from a gravel lane onto my paved driveway.)

I've searched at length and have found no TSB's realting to this nor any threads that seem to cover this.

Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance!

/d
 

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If it still chatters after you change the fluid add some friction modifyer and drive it a bit to mix it up and coat the plates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If it still chatters after you change the fluid add some friction modifyer and drive it a bit to mix it up and coat the plates.
Thanks.

Changed it. It took all 4 qts to get just below the fill hole, none draining out. Still chatters, only turning LT.

I'll try removing some and adding the friction modifier I got and try it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I added the additive and drove a little bit, including some tight radius (LT wheel lock) turns in a parking lot. Not sure if I drove it enough to coat everything because the vibration was still there, albeit slight. I'll see how it is after I drive tomorrow.
 

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You might need to add some more friction modifier. It's best to add a little at a time until the vibration goes away. You don't want to add too much.
 

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What happens if you add too much?

I changed my fluid a couple months ago using Mobil1 75W90 LS and got lots of chatter, so I added a tube of TransX. The chatter went away, but now its got a similar vibration, usually when turning left out of the driveway, especially when I first drive the truck. It's almost like the diff is stiff. I don't notice it after the diff is warmed up, nor does it happen if I roll slowly--only when I hit the gas.

Too much friction modifier?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the tips. I drove it today and didn't notice it, I also towed my car (open deck trailer) for about 40 miles, and didn't notice anything either. I'll take a closer look in the AM, but I hope I'm good to go!
 

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What happens if you add too much?

I changed my fluid a couple months ago using Mobil1 75W90 LS and got lots of chatter, so I added a tube of TransX. The chatter went away, but now its got a similar vibration, usually when turning left out of the driveway, especially when I first drive the truck. It's almost like the diff is stiff. I don't notice it after the diff is warmed up, nor does it happen if I roll slowly--only when I hit the gas.

Too much friction modifier?
Sounds like you don't have enough or it isn't mixed up good. The tube stuff sucks and doesn't stay suspended in the oil like the liquid modifier in the bottle does.
 

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What happens if you add too much?

I changed my fluid a couple months ago using Mobil1 75W90 LS and got lots of chatter, so I added a tube of TransX. The chatter went away, but now its got a similar vibration, usually when turning left out of the driveway, especially when I first drive the truck. It's almost like the diff is stiff. I don't notice it after the diff is warmed up, nor does it happen if I roll slowly--only when I hit the gas.

Too much friction modifier?
Sounds like you need to add more FM or what you have now is settling out. If you have too much the clutches will just slip giving you 1 wheel drive and no chatter.
 

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Sounds like you don't have enough or it isn't mixed up good. The tube stuff sucks and doesn't stay suspended in the oil like the liquid modifier in the bottle does.
I've never seen a bottle. This stuff is liquid though: Trans-X Posi-Trac, 7 ounce tube

I figured after using LS oil and adding most of that tube, that I couldn't possibly not have enough. Unless someone can recommend another easily available brand, I'll try some more of this stuff, since its probably the cheapest route. I may cut this interval short and use RP next time. I heard someone recommend GM's LSD additive--any experiences?

Also, what's a good way to make sure this is mixing up? I assumed a few thousand miles would have mixed it up by now. Will figure-8s mix better?
 

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Yep figure 8's will cause the friction plates to move around allowing the lsd to coat them. The gm lsd is also good stuff. I tried the tube stuff initially and it didn't mix up and coat my plates so out it went along with the mobil synthetic gear lube and I refilled it with more mobil and the bottled lsd which worked like a charm. I'll never use the tube stuff ever again.
 

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Still getting bad chatter. I added some Champion LSD Additive from O'Reilly Auto and it did nothing. I'm going to assume neither mixed well even after a ton of figure-8s.

Checked at Toyota and they want almost $300 for the change because they use cans of oil with additive at $66/each. I'm going to do another drain and fill with Royal Purple before I take another 400 mile trip this weekend. I'll probably hit the GM dealer to see what kind of additive they have in case I need to add some to the RP.
 

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my dealer uses the GM stuff. Comes in a black bottle with blue labeling.
 

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Still getting bad chatter. I added some Champion LSD Additive from O'Reilly Auto and it did nothing. I'm going to assume neither mixed well even after a ton of figure-8s.

Checked at Toyota and they want almost $300 for the change because they use cans of oil with additive at $66/each. I'm going to do another drain and fill with Royal Purple before I take another 400 mile trip this weekend. I'll probably hit the GM dealer to see what kind of additive they have in case I need to add some to the RP.
Depending on the condition of your clutch packs you might have to drive a bit more aggressively forcing the clutches to spin more allowing the modifier to work its way there. You might try getting onto some sand or loose dirt and inducing wheel spin. The more miles you've driven with the clutches abraiding themselves the longer it will take to smooth them out again.
 

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The reason is people put the wrong oil in the LSD rear ends. The book calls for straight 90w or 80w90 dino. Change the rearoil every 30k miles and use the correct oil and there should be no problem. The 75w90 is for the non LSD rear end.
 

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Still getting bad chatter. I added some Champion LSD Additive from O'Reilly Auto and it did nothing. I'm going to assume neither mixed well even after a ton of figure-8s.

Checked at Toyota and they want almost $300 for the change because they use cans of oil with additive at $66/each. I'm going to do another drain and fill with Royal Purple before I take another 400 mile trip this weekend. I'll probably hit the GM dealer to see what kind of additive they have in case I need to add some to the RP.
I have never been able to find the bottled friction modifier. If you have chatter only while turning and you are certain it is from the rear end have you considered the possibility of a toasted bearing? Any gear oil leaking from the drums? Gear oil has a very distinctive odor that you would notice right away. Just a thought.
 

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The reason is people put the wrong oil in the LSD rear ends. The book calls for straight 90w or 80w90 dino. Change the rearoil every 30k miles and use the correct oil and there should be no problem. The 75w90 is for the non LSD rear end.
Finding an auto parts store that stocks 90w or 80w90 dino gear lube is next to impossible as I discovered recently. Mobile 1 was my choice for the front differential and transfer case but what to do about the LSD rear end was the question. From the posts on this forum it would seem that the results are mixed in regard to Mobile 1 75W90. After getting assurances from Mobile, I gave it a try. At first, all seemed to go well but after a few miles, the all too familiar left turn chatter developed. I added one 4 oz. bottle of friction modifier but that wasn't enough. A second bottle was needed to stop the chatter. I remember reading that the friction modifier should be 5% of the total but in the real world, it takes a bit more to make our Tundras happy.
NOTE: The differential vent can be removed for quick access.
 

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The reason is people put the wrong oil in the LSD rear ends. The book calls for straight 90w or 80w90 dino. Change the rearoil every 30k miles and use the correct oil and there should be no problem. The 75w90 is for the non LSD rear end.
What do you base that on?

The non-LSD takes 75w140, NOT 75w90.

The LSD uses 90, but in colder climates needs 80w90 so it doesn't get too thick before it warms up. 75w90 is a more advanced oil than 80w90 and should maintain the same performance over a wider range of temperatures.
 
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